SailNet Community banner
  • SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

old volvo penta single...

12K views 31 replies 9 participants last post by  sidmon 
#1 · (Edited)
runs ok but should I keep it?
I would use the space for added water tank, and use a small oudbord.
 
#2 ·
is this engin worth keeping??
if so I wont trash it, righ now its out ready to rebuilt.

iv cleaned the space and will paint tomorow.

anyone with experience volvo penta diesel 10hp on cylinder, your opinion swap for modern outboard or keep?
 
#5 ·
I have this engine in my 27' boat and I like it very much. It uses virtually no fuel, vibrates a lot (single cylinder), starts instantly with out exception, and gets me out of and back into the marina with no problems. '

I would keep it. If you decide not to I want to buy yours.

Let me know.
 
#6 ·
don't rebuild

For the cost of rebuilding or less you can repower with a brand new engine that will be cheaper to operate and maintain overall. Check into the new Beta engines. They are based on kubota diesels and mine has given me great service. Volvo's are EXPENSIVE!!!!!

Don't hang an outboard on the stern. Bad jujus!
 
#8 ·
For the cost of rebuilding or less you can repower with a brand new engine that will be cheaper to operate and maintain overall.
With all due respect, garbage.
The parts to COMPLETELY rebuild a single cylinder diesel engine, with the exception of the block and head, even a Volvo, won't run more than $1500. Provided the block is decent, the head can be decked, cylinders honed, bearings replaced,... in fact if you can fix a lawnmower engine, and you're not afraid to get greasy, you can rebuild a single cylinder diesel engine in a weekend, if you have the parts on hand. It ain't rocket surgery. And, of course, this is assuming that the engine NEEDS to be rebuilt. Jones's Diesel rule of thumb #32(a) if it starts and runs, it usually only needs maintenance, not a complete rebuild.

Oh wait, you must have meant "the cost of HAVING SOMEBODY ELSE rebuilding".... and even then, I call bullschlitz. take the engine to the local tractor-and-forklift shop, not a "marine mechanic" and come back a week later. A shop would be hard pressed to invest more than 20 hours of labour into a full rebuild of a one lung diesel. even at $75/hr, plus $1500 in parts, it is still less than the cost of a Beta.

And let's not forget the hidden savings- the old engine goes right back in, whereas a new engine requires new mounts, new fabrication, headscratching, maybe a new shaft, etc., etc.,

I like the new Beta engines, and if i was commissioning a new boat, building a new boat, had a $8k-$10k budget for a repower, or had no mechanical skills, no tools and no desire to learn, i'd consider it.

But there is no way it is cheaper than rebuilding what is already there.
 
#7 ·
I would recommend pricing a re-build and a new engine. A new engine will also require new engine mounts, new prop shaft, etc., which you will need to add to the price of the engine.
 
#10 ·
it runs well has no leaks easy to start, will buff it and repaint this weekend.

being a mecanic rebuilding this engin would coast me next to nothing, but it dont need anything but servicing.

will put it back in the freshly painted boat interior monday :)
yes you got this right, I started painting my interior sins I have no foolish dummie tests to perform.
rgds
 
#17 ·
The MD17C is a three cylinder design.

I stand by my statement of not spending money on an old raw water cooled engine. It will fail dramatically at any time due to rusting thru from the inside.
well then you stand alone, this engin has never been touched in more then 30 years and still running strong. Now id have to call this reliable.

lets say I go full out and spend $140 new cylinder sleave, $40 new piston, $25 new rings, new valves $60 and why not have the crank rebalanced $250 and new bearings $50, ad new original gaskets $160 kit. and just in case an other $500.

now sins I am a consious worker and my entier engin is in pieces, I will buff every piece that shows sins of carbon or rust, I will oil them and rebuilt my engin carfully. Now I have an excelent and reliable engin for not much more then $1200 of corse I cauld by a used one for half or a rebuilt for $800, but this one I know will perform as it should and probably last as long as the original.
so I have to ask where is the logic in optaining a $10,000 engine for a $4000 boat?
sorry but all this is total nonsens, dont care if its 1 cylinder or 4.
pleas pepoles stop trowing away your $$ at such futilities unless you love new engines.
I dont mean to be rude, but this angers me cause its obvious someone was trying to scam you, I am angry at them not you, your the victime who now help others be victomised.

cheers
 
#18 ·
my original question was not if this is a good engin or not?

I sould have asked if this inboard was more convinient then a new outboard, sorry if I didnt ask my question properly.

personaly I love these simple old engines, I was thinking of adding a water tank in its place but now id rather keep the engin.
thanks
 
#19 ·
dwanespeer
I wasent trying to be rude with you in anyway, man when you neede help with your engin wish I was there, anyway you have a new one and seem to like it, that is all that matters.

last june I whent to visit an old riend, as I arived at about 11am he was tryint to figue out what was rong with his motorcycle, in 5 sec I said looks like a conecting rod bearing? whats for supper? my wifes doing a lasagna whant some? ya sure!
so I started to take the engin apart just the head, fund the offending part whent to the shop got a new bearing $32, we started the bike in time for supper.
I know a shop would have charged him $1000 maybe more? so I do understand what you are saying, but be honest surly you new the shop was being dishonest with you, you cauld have shoped arond for a better deal, or even ask a machine shop to rebuild your engin.
I think you wanted a new engin, that is perfectly fine.
but pleas dont go telling me that I will save money by optaining a new engin, thats crap!! but if the wife was near and Id wanted a new engin, then Id take this for gospel.

cheers
 
#20 ·
I wondered about the value of the boat this was in. Your correct in your statement that putting a $10,000 engine in a $4,000 boat doesn't make any sense what so ever. I would guess that given their age most of these single cylinder Volvos are mostly in similar surroundings. I paid less than $4,000 for my boat.
I wouldn't know how to respond to the question of raw water cooling and how it might effect the longevity of the engine. My boat has mostly been used in fresh water so I am guessing that that would make a difference.
 
#22 ·
I think I know what you are asking, if wrong disregard. An inboard engine is better than an outboard hanging off the transom, hands down, no way no how, done deal. I have had both and will never have a boat with an outboard again. If you sail in flat waters with no surf or current than an outboard will do the job. On the other hand get into some chop or heaven forbid real ocean then the thing is almost useless. Now, on to the question on the motor if it works then paint it do what needs done, oil, filters, impellers, exhaust etc and you have a boat that can take you home. An engine for me is a safety thing not just a convincence. I have had to use it to get out of the way of real big ships that don't move and the wind is not enough, get down the channel when, if you get off the path you are aground. Sounds like you have a good head on your shoulders so the decision comes down to you for your boat. But, don't spend 10 grand on a new engine unless, you have the money then go for it guys like me make a living doing this kind of stuff.
 
#23 ·
Jobi, I second bluwateronly's suggestion about inboard vs. outboard... it is too easy for an outboard to be torn off the stern in rough water. The only semi-workable arrangement for cruising offshore with an outboard (presuming that's still your plan) is if it is mounted in a well inside the cockpit. I don't think your boat has that arrangement available, so you're better with the inboard. It also keeps the weight of the engine lower down, better for stability, instead of hanging the engine weight off the stern.
 
#25 ·
Chunk that old MD1B just as fast as you can!

I had one. You will find the parts -IF you can find them- will be spectacularly, outrageously, mindbogglingly expensive.

The water channels in the head are likely almost rusted through into the cylinder. That old starter generator is a serious relic that puts out a pitiful little bit of amps. Oh, and the regulator for it? Good luck with that.

Lets just say, I will NEVER, EVER own a Volvo equipped boat again.

(if you ask me I'll tell you what I really think)
 
#28 ·
sidmon pleas dont fall for this nonesens, the md1 cooling systhem is absurdly simple with a few holes thrue the cylinder head and injector sleeves. the thermostate and hose ar the only weakness of this engin, and mine (originals) still performing thire duties.

all this volvo being lemons simply dont have a leg to stand on.

any brand can have problems. but in this case a new cylinder head would fix any rust damage possible. and sins mine have always been cealed from oxigen theres not rust or corosion at all. in any case a quick visual would clearly infor anyone on this engin condition.

cheers
 
#30 · (Edited)
sidmon pleas dont fall for this nonesens, the md1 cooling systhem is absurdly simple with a few holes thrue the cylinder head and injector sleeves. the thermostate and hose ar the only weakness of this engin, and mine (originals) still performing thire duties.
Been down this road with my very own MD1B...

The boat (a Contest 27) was a southern boat, so it stayed in the water year round. I personally saw what the interior looked like on that motor, and was shocked at the water channel erosion present.

Like you, I thought such a simple engine would be an easy rebuild.

I found out different though.
 
#29 ·
also for whats its worth, id never buy original parts, they coast way too much. its better to have a machine shop order replacements or costum built.

a cylinder wall and piston regardless of make will do its job, iv alredy said this on this thread.
out of production parts for any make is prohibitive
 
#31 ·
I hear you, seen my share of such damage, but in all cases the engines have been exposed to air. my engin has not and therfor has no corosion.

a very different case as yours, however if it had id machine an other head witch id canibalise from any old single with sililar specs independent of make.
machanic is simple and universal no mather how makers try to prouve you otherwise.

cheers
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top