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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > snapped coaxial cable for SSB
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Thread: snapped coaxial cable for SSB Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-09-2011 02:15 PM
YeahJohn Shakespeare makes a connector to rejoin the cable. It has a small needle in the middle the penetrates both cables and makes a positive connection without much work. You should run new when you have time and money. I bought one at west marine for $5.
03-09-2011 06:52 AM
transmitterdan There is no connector used for the backstay. Run the high voltage cable using the same path the old one used. Once you get the wire above the bottom insulator you can use a UV stable ty-wrap to fasten the cable to the backstay. Put the ty-wrap about 6" above the insulator and leave about 10" of cable hanging loose above the ty-wrap. Then loop the wire back down and use a small stainless steel hose clamp to clamp the wire conductor to the back stay above the insulator. The cable where you stripped back the insulation will be pointing down. That way water will not run down inside the insulation and attack the wire. Do not try to seal the end with any goop. In these situations goop just holds in water and makes things worse.

Try to keep the wire 4-6" away from anything metal except for the backstay above the insulator. Also, try to keep it from where people will be tempted to touch it. When the SSB is transmitting you can get shocked or burned from this cable even though it is insulated.

Inspect the connection regularly and if the wire seems corroded then just cut off an inch and reattach. After a few years UV will destroy the outer insulation on the wire and you will repeat this whole process with a new wire. Nothing lasts forever at sea.

Regards,
Dan
03-09-2011 12:59 AM
celenoglu As you increase the number of connections, the probability of discontinuity increases. Instead of using two male and a two way female barrel, look for a single barrel with cable connections on both ends specially manufactured for this type of connections. It is best to replace the whole cable.
03-08-2011 11:47 PM
yzlian gosh, i am electrical-wiring challenged. wasn't aware of the difference between coax and the high voltage single conductor cable. what i really meant must have been the latter all along. so i bought new high voltage single conductor white wire for the part between the tuner and backstay and am going to do the replacement tomorrow. would need a ladder to do that. is there a special connector between this cable and the backstay? if so, can i use the existing one? thanks.
02-27-2011 03:52 PM
transmitterdan There is only one "coax" connected to the tuner. The coax runs from the radio to the tuner. Coax repairs have already been correctly described in this thread using two male connectors and a female barrel.

The cable that runs from the tuner to the back stay is not a coax (or at least it shouldn't be). It should be a high voltage single conductor wire. Splicing this type of wire can be tricky but it's possible to do. But high voltage cable is fairly cheap and if the existing one has insulation cracks and is broken then it probably got water in it some time and should be replaced. If you want to try splicing it you can do this with a regular Anchor crimp type butt splice. Heat seal after crimping and wrap with generous layers of rubber tape. Try to make sure that the splice does not come in close contact with any part of the boat but especially any metal bits.

Dan
02-27-2011 02:34 PM
centaursailor If you are going to splice then you need to ensure continuity of the sheilding.
After repairing the core its important to insulate the core from the sheild, looks like mesh, and repair the sheild if not useing a mechanical co-axial connector.
These have two ends, the core is exposed to push into the fitting on both sides and the co-axial sheild is held by the locking nuts and the sheilding is restored.
Safe sailing
02-27-2011 01:55 PM
yzlian now that i am finally reunited with my boat, i can start the repairing jobs to turn it into cat 1. this post is still about the ssb coaxial cable linking the smart-tuner to the antenna, which is just a good part of the rear stay; now i would like to know if the connection between the coax and the rear stay is a special thing, or is it just like any wire connection - splice and connect then wrap up with tape, which could be done by anyone in an hour or so? thanks! yzlian
12-13-2010 11:28 AM
rikhall Yzlian

To splice the old broken piece, you will probably need two PL-259 Coax connectors.



Not rocket science to solder these guys (see How to solder a PL-259 Coax Connector | The Steven Experience.

Once you have done that you will probably need a Barrel Antenna Coax Connector to join the pieces.



And, you will then have an old piece of coax repaired.

To replace it you will probably need two PL-259 Coax connectors (see above) and some new bulk coax. Try some place like HRO Ham Radio Outlet - World's Largest Supplier of Amateur Radio (Ham Radio) Equipment. Sales, Supplies, and Service. . Once done, you will have a new piece of Coax. Same job, you will have learned how to install coax connectors and your job will be a better one.

Merry Christmas

Rik
12-12-2010 03:06 PM
hellosailor "If the cable is so old that it "chips and snaps" it definitely should be replaced."
ABSOLUTELY. And some folks would suggest replacing it every five years anyway, as the core compresses and damp gets in and the cable degrades while still working.

You can make an emergency repair to coax in several ways. Easiest is to cut the break, install a "crimp on" male conector one each side, and screw both into a "double female" connector to rejoin them. Wrap over with waterproof tape.

Hopefully you've got an SWR meter and antenna tuner on that rig, things like a bad cable can kill the signal, or the rig itself.
12-12-2010 12:52 PM
Freddyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by yzlian View Post
hello there. the coaxial cable running to my SSB antenna chipped at one point and eventually snapped. for coax cables, is a quick fix (somehow joining up the snapped ends) good enough, or should i replace the whole thing? if joining up is good enough, what is the best way to do it? thanks.
If the cable is so old that it "chips and snaps" it definitely should be replaced. It's supposed to be flexible after all.
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