|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-29-2010 08:44 AM|
We do a lot of seasonal small motor prep work up here. One of the simplest is to make sure you run stabilizer in your last tank of the season, then when you turn off the fuel valve you make sure the tank is full to prevent condensation. Change the oil (if applicable) and consider it done. When you are ready to use the engine again, drain the old fuel (dispose in the normal manner) and fill with fresh "premium" gas, and a splash of fuel injector cleaner. Works like a charm.
I've never really had a problem with outboards, snowblowers, or lawnmowers, but my 2-stroke snowmachine is finnicky as heck and will run like crap (if at all) unless I follow the above procedure.
So far, I haven't disassembled a carb as part of a "seasonal" maintenance program.
|12-29-2010 08:36 AM|
Originally Posted by JKCatalina310 View Post
Nice to hear it was a joke. It appears you are relativity new here with about 20 post, so it would be safe to say I/we don't know you or your on-line persona. You might consider using icons such as these when posting something "funny". Please try to understand that I am only responding to what you wrote, noting that it can be difficult to understand someones intent on-line/in a forum. For example, "typical uptight Tartan owner" with would work just fine.
Just a side note, I happen to like Catalina's very much. The C42 is a fine boat and one I would seriously consider buying if/when we move aboard. Now those Catalina 400 Owners such as Cruisingdad...well...nevermind
|12-29-2010 08:27 AM|
|LakeSuperiorGeezer||If the 20 hp Tohatsu is a 4 cycle, it is fuel injection so no carburetor. If two cycle, pull the cowing and check, as I do not know if there is a carburetor. Some of the new Tohatsu outboards have fuel injection on the 2 cycles. On old outboards, ethanol can dissolve rubber parts in the fuel system. The 10% ethanol mixed gasoline also goes stale much faster. If you have fuel injection, the old gasoline would clear after you crank the engine a bit next spring. What I would do is siphon the gasoline from the fuel tank. With a portable tank, I guess you can just tip the tank over into a large pan or funnel, but siphoning would be better. You can buy a hose with a rubber bulb on it at an auto parts store for siphoning. Take the old fuel and put it in your car with the car tank almost full. If you have fuel in the outboard that does not have ethanol, put stabilizer in the fuel now and you will probably be OK next spring. I buy premium grade fuel where I live since it has no ethanol and use it in all my small engines. By the way, even if the impeller did not melt while running dry, the uneven heating of engine parts would damage the engine, especially around the exhaust valves if it is a 4 cycle. Cracks in metal parts are likely with excess heat. Aluminum is really bad this way. Inboard engines with cast iron heads will stand more abuse. Piston rings also loose their tension when overheated causing loss of compression and oil consumption.|
|12-29-2010 07:28 AM|
|DulceSuerna||Maybe they just enjoy waterskiing behind their dinghy|
|12-29-2010 07:10 AM|
It was a joke
Originally Posted by T37Chef View Post
We typically joke at our marina that most power boaters have larger engines on their dinghies then the sailboaters have on our sailboats.
|12-28-2010 05:41 PM|
It's all been said, but I just love this diagram:
(from 74 on water problems)
|12-28-2010 05:07 PM|
It may have already been said, but if the intent is to run the engine to drain the carb of fuel, wouldn't it be easiest to just drain the bowl by pulling the drain screw? The hassle of lugging a bucket down the docks covered in snow...then figuring out a way to mount the bucket under the motor and run it just seems like a lot of work when it would take you maybe 5 minutes to remove the cover and drain the carb.
If you're wanting to winterize it properly I would think it be best to remove the engine from the boat, take it somewhere where you can run water through a hose to either "ear muffs" or the intake input with proper fitting, run it for 10-15, fog the carb, then change oil (if app), lower unit lube, maybe spark plugs and fog (pull the carb a few times while fogging), and fuel filter. Just sayin.
@JKCatalina310...WTH? Speaking for myself, one of the things we enjoy doing often is to explore the shoreline with the kids in our dingy. Lets say we're somewhere like the Wye River off the Chesapeake. There are miles and miles off shoreline you could explore outside the creek one is anchored for the night. Something like a 20hp on a RIB just allows you more options. Stop being such a hater and don't judge people you don't know! AT least that how I read your ridiculous comment!
|12-28-2010 03:55 PM|
Originally Posted by JKCatalina310 View Post
I wanted the following when dinghy shopping:
1. Able to plane with every one aboard, so we could explore, and no shuttling people back and forth. We have one special needs child that adds to the complexity of the fox-hen-grain exercise that we'd have to do if we had to take multiple trips.
2. Able to pull up on the beach when I'm alone. This meant a hard bottom, because sea shells would qiuckly lacerate the underside of an inflated bottom.
3. Able to pull up on our davits.
We got an 11'6" Achilles RIB.. Great dinghy. At one point we explored Martha's Vinyard, planing with everyone aboard, beach chairs and a cooler. We went 3 miles to one beach and it was a great time. [The marina screwed up our prop reconditioning so we found ourselves (2 weeks later) with no prop on our sailboat. Being able to explore turned a stressfull time into an adventure.]
Oh, and the Tohatsu 20 hp weighs the same as the 15 hp. It's the same engine with a different carburator. A no brainer to get the 20 hp!
|12-28-2010 03:53 PM|
I'd like to add a comment about ethanol. My son has been employed in the marine industry for years and most of his repair work is fuel related. He advises using fuel additives specifically designed to protect engines from the potential corrosive effects of ethanol and is constantly checking for water in his own fuel. Any gasoline fueled equipment stored for long periods may be adversely impacted by ethanol.
|12-28-2010 02:39 PM|
All above comments are good, drain the carb. Running it "dry" may
leave a small amount of fuel which will evaporate and leave debris
which may be sucked up and clog jets the next time you start it. I
have used Berryman's B-12 fuel additive for many years in outboards,
motorcycles, generators, snowblowers and cars on an ongoing basis
with no fuel related problems. No affiliation and other products may
work as well? The most important thing is to drain the fuel bowl, and
yes, the impeller won't like being run dry.
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