|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-03-2011 02:10 PM|
|emiller775||The last pin came out with a little heat from my wife's hairdryer. I was planning to use Dow 795 on the two plastic hatches since they are screwed only to the fiberglass deck. I also used it to attach the acrylic windows on the side of the Hunter 28.5 without screws. The deck is sanded and then everything is cleaned with acetone prior to install. Seems to be holding so far.|
|02-03-2011 05:24 AM|
|MARC2012||Bomar recommends silpruf silicon for hatches.marc|
|02-02-2011 05:22 PM|
If that's the Hancock Tower in Boston, the reason the windows were popping out was the dual-pane glass was too rigid to withstand the thermal cycling during the day. The building was also plagued with other problems, like not being stiff enough to resist wind-loading and swaying dangerously. That problem was solved using two 300 ton weights, which were installed to damp the movement of the building. Additional reinforcement was also added to the building to help resist the torsional forces caused by wind loading that might have otherwise caused the building to fall over.
I don't think Dow Corning 795 was used in the building, since I don't think the product was available when the Hancock was built. It is probably since superseded whatever structural adhesive was previously used.
|02-02-2011 04:37 PM|
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
|02-02-2011 03:46 PM|
|zz4gta||I soaked my window in mineral spirits and the goo came off in the tub. Took a couple days to get it all off. But didn't damage the acrylic.|
|02-02-2011 03:04 PM|
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
|02-02-2011 02:32 PM|
"Silicone-based sealants have very few legitimate uses on a boat."
Offhand I'd agree with you, but Mark Plastics, who are one of the larger players in replacing OEM glazing on a lot of older boats, specifically say to use silicon seal to bed plastic portlight surrounds into the wood/fiberglass hull of a boat. Damfino why, I like more permanent solutions.
|02-02-2011 12:55 PM|
|sailingdog||If you're going to use heat, use hot water, rather than a heat gun or other heating technique. When you're re-bedding the new frame, use Butyl Tape rather than another sealant or adhesive, provided the hatch frame is through-bolted. Silicone-based sealants have very few legitimate uses on a boat.|
|02-02-2011 12:44 PM|
Has anyone disassembled a plastic framed hatch. I am having to replace the frame on a Gray/Pompanette hatch. The PO used a silicone sealant which is stuck on the frame like epoxy but never adhered to the boat. Pompanette will sell only the frame for a lot less than the hatch. The hinge pins are staked into the hatch lid and of course one came out easily and the other is not cooperating with my drift pin and hammer. Heat? Any ideas?