|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-24-2011 03:30 PM|
|pinayreefer||You must be right. That Islander 30 was a POS. It totally escapes me how anyone would pay $300/month to keep that in a slip. Needed more work than anyone would be willing to do.|
|03-24-2011 11:41 AM|
|SpcAlan1||Only spcalan gets those kinds of deals.|
|03-24-2011 10:43 AM|
|pinayreefer||Very interesting read. I'm looking for a boat, thought it'd be a Columbia 31 or Erickson 30. The broker said he had an Islander 30 but it is "ugly" which turned out to be zebra print settee cushions and a bad hull paintjob. I'm not sure why I like a wood interior but I'm looking harder at the Islander now. I wonder if I can get the kind of deal SpcAlan1 got?|
|02-22-2011 11:58 AM|
Thank you for all of the ideas.
I may go the wire/rope combo in the future.
|02-22-2011 10:17 AM|
|blt2ski||Another option is to take the outer sheave off of some of the highertech ropes, this will allow a smaller diam material thru the sheaves, yet have the larger diam line that some like to hang onto. This will be lighter in wt than a wire rope combo. Any good rigger, maybe even a semi poor one, will know how to do this.|
|02-21-2011 08:58 PM|
|thehardaground||sometimes people choose bigger line because it feels nicer in their hand. Don't be afraid to go back to wire/rope for your main halyard either. Would be good to know what would fit comfortably through your sheave though.|
|02-21-2011 08:50 PM|
If you need to replace, nor have not the main halyard, get a smaller diam, hopefully obvious, and go with something other than sta set. get a good quality non stretchy line. There are some lines as strong or stronger than steel, with less stretch. That might get the line small enough to go thru the sheaves, etc.
Have fun with the new to you rig!
|02-21-2011 04:43 PM|
Good news... simple solutions.
By topping lift I assume you mean the one half way up the front of the mast, not the one on the boom?
Your 'extra' spinn halyard sounds more like a second jib halyard. Most common situation is 2 jib halyards (exiting under the forestay tang) and one or two spinn halyards running through blocks above and outside the forestay.
Did you replace the main halyard with smaller diameter line?
Was the "roller furling" you replaced the furling line or the halyard on that sail?
|02-21-2011 04:13 PM|
Alright, got it fixed today:
1. Had to replace the roller furling. This line was old.
2. Had to reroute the 'extra' spin halyard. Come to find out it was aft of the roller, therefore not a very good spin halyard - supposed to be outside of roller. This was the reason the roller was tight.
3. The main halyard was too large for the sheave. This boat came with wire halyard, so the rope is too big, but the real reason was because the line was spliced with a huge knot between the 2 pieces. This was shoved up inside the sheave and was causing the line friction.
4. Removed the topping lift pulley ( on mast ) - dont have a spin sail, nor would I use it.
replacing the traveler line. current line is too big, need to go down in size.
|02-20-2011 01:41 PM|
The other line is the topping lift - it keeps the boom from dropping when the sail is down... this needs to be slack when you're sailing. If it's too tight, as it appears in the picture, then your mainsheet can't put the proper leech tension and it won't fly right.
There should be an easy adjustment for this.. either at the end of the boom, or at the mast/deck if it's run to the masthead and back down.
So the drill is: reef lines slack, hoist main... once it's up,(and it's important that it's 'fully hoisted') slacken topping lift until the sail supports the boom, then remove excess slack from reefing lines and trim the main. Give the topping lift plenty of slack because as you sheet in you'll tend to tighten it again. When you're ready to drop the main, re-tension the topping lift to support the boom and then drop the sail.
While you're actually sailing that topping lift should have a foot or more of slack and be very sloppy. This is a bit of a potential chafe problem and is one reason why rigid vangs (which can eliminate this line) are popular - they support the boom... btw do you have a boom vang? It looks like you might, and this, too, must be slack during the hoist to ensure you get the sail all the way up.
All of the above predicated on fixing the original problem with the halyard drag.
As to the reef line, you can pull it through and store it forward on the boom, or simply bury the slack in the flaked sail. The former will add to the difficulty of raising the sail again unless you preslacken the reef lines before hoisting..
No disrespect, but you need to start doing some reading about the basic controls and methods for hoisting and reefing!
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