|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-12-2011 12:10 PM|
Originally Posted by Spyder View Post
|06-12-2011 10:24 AM|
|Spyder||Um...how about reevaluating the acquisition decision? You say it is much lighter than your original mast, and already has a splice?|
|06-11-2011 04:34 AM|
Thanks everyone, this is great info! Hopefully I'll get the spar this week and with some luck, it will be stepped by July 4th. So many tasks, so little time. My instruments are still not back after the bulked repairs, and I just learned my line clutches for the genoa halyards are slipping in all but the lightest air. Always a challenge!
I'll post pics!
|06-11-2011 12:13 AM|
Pilot Supplies, Avionics, and Homebuilt Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co. sells the materials needed for stopping corrosion and prepping aluminum for painting. Their materials are of the nature of those used to preserve aircraft in a salt water environment, such as on an aircraft carrier. Their website is useful.
When I repainted my mast and boom, I used their alumiprep #33 and alodine #1201, buying a quart of each, and had excess after prepping my 34 foot mast and 11 foot boom. Instructions for use come with the order. They are very easy to use.
I didn't take all the paint off my mast and boom. I removed fittings and sanded until I got all the loose paint and corrosion off. Paint that was well-adhered stayed on the mast. I painted both mast and boom with a brush and put on two coast of Interlux Brightsides. I had a couple of minor runs on the mast, but I thought it looked great for a thirty three year old boat.
It still looks pretty good after a year of use including stepping and unstepping the tabernacled mast myself using the boom as a lever, and hauling the boat on my trailer with the mast laid across padded pulpits and center support.
|06-11-2011 12:05 AM|
Originally Posted by harraik View Post
Another advantage is avoiding the nasty fumes of the various washes.. but you need the masks and filters for the paint anyway.
|06-10-2011 11:31 PM|
|harraik||Impressive finish Treilly!|
|06-10-2011 11:29 PM|
What happens if you skip the 353-wash step? I have the same products (primekote and perfection) but am having some difficulty tracking down the wash in the time that I need it. Are there any other alternatives?
Faster: You wiped it down with vinegar...like regular have-it-in-my-kitchen vinegar?
|05-10-2011 10:34 AM|
|Tim R.||I used SS rivets on mine and placed a piece of thick leather around the fittings to avoid the inevitable chipping when the rivet gun pops. I simply pressed a 1/2" hole in the leather so the face of the rivet gun would fit through.|
|05-09-2011 03:42 PM|
Tommays did exactly what I did to my mast, with excellent results for both of us. The only difference is that I sand blasted my mast instead of stripping and sanding. I got a very uniform surface, but it was a lot of work to clean all the sand out of the mast. I also used a flattening agent in my paint. I used a flattening agent on the deck paint to give it a semi gloss look and wanted the mast to match. This also allowed me to skip sanding the primer.
One thing I didn't see mentioned is all the rivets to reattach the hardware. I used 316 stainless rivets, which are very hard to pull in. You have to use a large two handed rivet gun, and when the rivet "pops" it will give you enough of a jolt that you'll be lucky to not chip your new paint job.
|05-09-2011 02:13 PM|
Her is my spar refinish from our previous boat. Rolled and tipped Interlux Perfection.
Click on each photo to get the full text.
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