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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-28-2011 07:33 PM
mitiempo That is a good option if you have a breaker position to spare. I don't believe Chris does.
05-28-2011 03:21 PM
sidmon I put in a 1 amp a series circuit breaker in the top position of my DC panel to control the back lights...seen in the upper right position here (subsequently I managed to break the toggle off that particular breaker and it turns out Blue Sea no longer sells a 1 amp, so replaced it with a Paneltronics).

05-27-2011 11:18 PM
mitiempo Tweegs

The smallest wire on a boat should be 16 awg.

Chris

The panel lighting is powered by the red and yellow wires on the Blue Seas panels. The yellow is ground. Run the red wire, which is 16 awg, to a switch like a Blue Seas toggle (4150) and back to the positive bus on the panel. The run should only be a few inches if the switch is beside or above the panel and doesn't require a fuse in my opinion. As shipped the panel lighting on Blue Seas panels is not fused.
05-27-2011 08:37 PM
nickmerc I have my Blue Seas panel backlight on a separate switch in one of the extra breaker positions. I have it supplied by the DC master on the panel with a 1A fuse. I do not find the light put out to be that much. Especially after sailing all day when I am beat. I just like to be able to turn things independently.
05-27-2011 05:09 PM
cghubbell I'm looking at more like a 1A fuse on 16 AWG, so the fuse is way less than the wire itself. These back panel LEDs have a tiny draw.
05-27-2011 03:55 PM
Tweegs Just a quick cautionary note:

Whatever size fuse you use, make sure the wire size you use can handle the current.

My own rule of thumb is to have the wire sized to handle 180% of the fuse rating.

In short, donít use 22 ga. wire with a 10 amp fuse, the wire will smoke long before the fuse pops.

Here's a sizing chart:
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies
05-27-2011 02:14 PM
cghubbell Brian,

Just to clarify, are you suggesting powering directly from the 1-2-All switch common post, then feeding to an in-line fuse (probably 1A), then running to a dedicated switch?

I definitely like the idea of saving my precious breakers, and I like the idea of having a "kill switch" for the panel light.
05-27-2011 11:34 AM
mitiempo Chris

I wouldn't wire the panel lighting into the cabin lighting circuit which will probably be on when you are aboard. If the lighting circuit were turned off you would have to get out of the V-berth to go to the panel to turn the V-berth reading light on.
It bothers some and not others. A separate switch makes sense. I wouldn't dedicate a breaker to it. You could install a toggle switch beside the panel for this.
05-27-2011 11:06 AM
cghubbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVPrairieRose View Post
I have a dedicated switch on my blueseas panel to light or strike the panel lights. Having the panel lit DOES create a lot of light and I am glad I did it this way. I know my panel well enough that I know what each tiny dot means without having to see the labels, but if I want them on I flick a switch and have em on. If you have an extra circuit I would do this again on any install I do in the future. Hope this helps.
I had a feeling that the amount of light might be too much for non-essential times. I'm leaning towards tying it into the cabin lighting circuit, and putting a small switch somewhere convenient to shut them down when necessary.

Thanks all, the virtual boatyard walk has been very successful other than not being able to share a beer during the conversation!
05-27-2011 10:50 AM
SVPrairieRose I have a dedicated switch on my blueseas panel to light or strike the panel lights. Having the panel lit DOES create a lot of light and I am glad I did it this way. I know my panel well enough that I know what each tiny dot means without having to see the labels, but if I want them on I flick a switch and have em on. If you have an extra circuit I would do this again on any install I do in the future. Hope this helps.
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