|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-01-2011 09:11 AM|
I used a 5" orbital Ryobi sander and dry sanded it. I kept a shop vac close at hand and kept vacuuming the dust. After that I just washed it down with boat soap. I did all this while the boat was still under the winter shrink wrap on the hard. I painted as much as I could with shrink wrap on as well to avoid leaves/pollen falling out of the air. Kiwi grip is nontoxic so didn't have to worry about fumes under the shrinkwrap. Also, I did it in sections, first the cockpit, then the main deck. I actually ran out of time. So I left the coach roof for next winter. The most time consuming part was rebedding the hardware.
Check out the thread started by MaineSail on rebedding hardware with butyl tape on this site. After going through the process I would recommend using the butyl tape. I would also make sure I get the high quality stuff from MaineSail. When I rebbed my hardware I bought all new fastners using 316 stainless which is a higher grade of marine stainless than you will get a West Marine.
Sorry I didn't take any pix during the process. There were a couple of places where I had cracking that spread beyond the nonskid area. I extended the nonskid footprint to cover these areas and it worked really well. Especially where the PO had left some old hardware in the cockpit. I was able to remove it, patch it and cover it up with kiwigrip.
I put the kiwigrip on with the kiwigrip roller and then just took a 1" foam brush to smooth the kiwigrip where it abuts the toerail. I did not bother painting the inside of my anchor locker. Check out the Kiwigrip website for more info.
I had the Pearson blue non-skip and used the Kiwigrip grey which is lighter in color. So anyplace that did not get real good coverage was noticeable. But as I mentioned before, it was easy to go back over it and you couldn't tell where I patched the imperfections.
Good luck, it's a lot of work but it's really worth it. I also stripped my brightwork and painted it with Cetol Natural Teak this past winter. It's like a new boat now. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions as your going through process.
|06-30-2011 02:18 PM|
Do you have any pictures of your non-skid? I also have a Pearson 35 (recently purchased this spring) and the non-skid is in really poor shape. I am thinking of wet sanding the skid areas and applying the non-skid. I have several crazing throughout. What did you do for prep work (prior to applying)?
When you applied the paint with a 1" foam brush, did it come out smooth and finish looking or a heavy coat of paint type of look to it?
|06-30-2011 01:31 PM|
I just re-did my nonskid with kiwi-grip this spring. I am very pleased with the way it came out. I'm really a novice when it comes to these things and I think that had I used some other options that are more difficult to work with I would not have gotten as good a result.
One good thing about Kiwi grip if you miss some spots or if the tape pulls up an edge or if your not happy with roughness of the surface you can re-apply and patch spots that you may have screwed up the first time through. I'm curious to see how well it will last but so far so good. I cringe when someone drops a winch handle or other hardware but so far it has held up pretty well. One other thing I noticed is that you should give it a least a week to really cure. You can walk on it after a day or two, but it really takes longer to really cure to a hard surface.
It does a good job of covering blemishes in the fiberglass of which I had a few my 1980 P-35.
My old non-skid was a basket weave molded into the deck. Because of this I had to use more kiwi grip than I projected based on their recommendations. I would say about 30 to 40% more.
Other helpful hints? Take off the painters tape within minutes of finishing each small section you work on. Good news is if you screw it up the first time you can go back over it and fix it. One other thing I did was use a 1" foam brush to create a flat surface for water run off along my toe rail and and under my hand rails. Not only is it functional to some degree, but I think it actually looks a nicer that way.
Would I use it again? Yes. Who would not be happy with it? If you're a real perfectionist and are willing fix any and all blemishes in your fiberglass and you are comfortable working with the more difficult to work with products you probably don't want to use Kiwi grip.
|06-30-2011 11:43 AM|
The Jan/Feb issue of Good Old Boat has an article with pics of a Kiwi non-skid project that might be useful.
|06-30-2011 11:12 AM|
|catamount||I applied KiwiGrip several years ago and have been very happy with it. This part of my project is documented here: GREYHAWK Refit: Deck Paint and Non-Skid|
|06-30-2011 09:24 AM|
Non skid - Kiwigrip need some input
I am trying gather some information and successful completed projects on repainting deck with Kiwi Grip. I know the amount of work that will be needed for applying a two part poly non-skid on our sailboat deck but from what I read so far, (besides removing hardware & rebedding) seems like Kiwi Grip requires less work as it will fill in many tiny hairline crazing while being applied.
Are there any successful Kiwi Grip projects out there and some advise?
Or is this product just not as superior to a two-part poly.