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Go Back   SailNet Community > Out There > Cruising & Liveaboard Forum > Technical note on Chronicles
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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-17-2006 03:29 PM
Cruisingdad
Technical note on Chronicles

Just some technical notes to make sure the Chronicles does not happen to you.

If you are going to keep your boat south of the Mason Dixon and you have air conditioning, be very conscious of your T-Hull location and setup.

ESPECIALLY an air conditioner should have its own T-Hull and put a intake strainer on the outside. Also, most manufacturers "reccommend" a very small, plastic strainer like Shurflo. THese work ok in a lake but will become a serious maintenance object in the warmer climates. In my opinion, they are a total and complete waste of money for AC application. Cleaning them requires dropping them from the bottom. You will almost assuredly lose your prime, and the volume of materials they hold is unacceptable. Put a 500 (min) or preferrably 700ish strainer inline. My personal favorite is the Groco ARG series with SS basket. The strainer is removable from the top and the screen easy to clean. You will pay for them upfront, but the reduced maintenance will make you very happy.

Location, location, location. A T-Hull for an a/c (especially an A/C) should NOT BE PUT IT IN THE STERN OF THE BOAT. The closer to the bottom of the boat (like, beside the Gen or Main Intake) is the place to put it. When you get offshore in a following sea... or even travelling down the ICW and rocked by the Sport Fishers... you will lose your prime if it is in the stern. AC systems are renound for losing them.

Eventually you will get your system clogged up... sooner than later if you reside in an area around mangroves. I installed a T-fiiting with top clean-out. Its basic diagram is: T-Hull valve, then T fitting. Above the T-Fitting is another ball valve. There is nothing attached here. On the opposite side of the T fitting, you have another ball valve, your strainer, pump, and intake for AC. To clean the clogged T-Hull, close the valve closest to the strainer. Open the valve above the T. Jam a coat hanger or shotgun cleaner brush down the fitting several times. Then, hook a hose up to the top valve and put on high pressure. The water will force the garbage back out. You should be able to see water flowing freely back out of the top of the valve (you will know it worked). Then, close the top valve and open the valve to the strainer side. You have maintained your prime and cleaned the T-Hull without diving it.

Just a bit of advice for all so you don't find yourself upside down in the lazarette trying to use the force to get yourself free.

- CD

 
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