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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Helms > Original Helms documentation
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Thread: Original Helms documentation Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-18-2011 11:28 AM
Wayne25 I agree about the plates. You have two more under the winch on either side of the centerboard trunk to inspect the shaft for the cable block that guides the centerboard cable through the trunk. This block can stop spinning and get a groove cut into it by the cable. You can see the block if the boat is hauled out and you lower the centerboard and look up into the trunk.

Air draft is 33'-6". That's the important measurement, as a lot of bridges are 35' at mean high water.
08-17-2011 03:27 PM
rmaltz Just passing on that I found answers to my previous questions. The stainless steel plates are not structural and can be removed for viewing the centerboard pivot pin. And the mast is about 30' tall.

Take care,
Ron
Annapolis, MD.
'76 Helms 25 - Cheetah
08-11-2011 08:31 AM
rmaltz Hi Wayne,

Thanks for the detailed info. Am I able to remove the stainless steel plates without the centerboard from falling? I'm almost certain that both sides are leaking but I'm not certain that is the only leak.

For the rudder, I don't know about the washers. I'll take a look tonight after work. I think the bolt is too tight and will try loosening it a little bit. I just need enough that I'm not fighting to lower and raise the rudder. At this point, that is the hardest effort needed when I take out the boat.

One last question: what is the size of the mast on the Helms 25?

Thanks very much!
----------------------
Ron
Annapolis, MD.
08-09-2011 11:39 AM
Wayne25 Ron:
On the centerboard topic. You should have a 2"x2" stainless steel plate over each side of the centerboard trunk. These plates are to give you access to the centerboard pivot pin. The plates have a red colored gasket behind them for a seal and are held on with small stainless steel screws, one on each corner of the plate. Check to make sure these plates are not leaking while underway. Use baby powder or tape paper towels around the plates to see if there is any sign of water coming around the plates. Water from other sources would run below the plates.

Rudder - You need to tighten the swing bolt on the rudder just tight enough that it doesn't swing while sailing, but loose enough to swing up if you ground. Do you have large thick doughnut washers on each side of the bolt? I'm suppose to, but mine are missing. I just use very large fender washers and i tighten mine as hard as i can with a 10" box wrench. It stays put while sailing, but swings up if I ground. If I ground and it swings up, I loosen the bolt and push the rudder down with my boat pole and re-tighten the bolt.
Hope this helps.
08-08-2011 05:34 PM
rmaltz I'll keep looking around for other possible leak areas. Thanks for confirming what I suspected in that I would free the centerboard by taking out those bolts.

On another note, what do you think of replacing the tiller with a wheel for steering the boat, which would attach to the transom?

Thanks very much for all of your help.

Ron
Annapolis, MD.
08-08-2011 04:01 PM
jumaggafanny If it comes in from open hatches, tow eye, hull deck joint it may still settle to that point. I have a 1/4" hole drilled in the stern liner to drain into the lowest point but a 15 deg heel can put water into that little spot fast and it never returns but weeps and seeps.
The bolt pin you refer to is the pin-hige, you'll set free the 300# guillotine blade..I mean center board.
08-05-2011 08:02 PM
rmaltz Hi jumaggafanny,

Thanks for the quick reply. For the centerboard, I have water on the port side of the centerboard bolt/pin which is the only place water could have come from. I had the boat out on Sunday for 4 hours. When we docked I noticed more water on the cabin floor than before we set sail. I had some water in that area throughout the winter months and it stayed at the same level until I took it sailing on Sunday.

For the rudder, thanks. I will try loosening the bolt/nut a bit. I was afraid by doing this that the rudder would come up on its own while sailing.

Take care,

Ron
08-05-2011 07:51 PM
jumaggafanny
Not so fast....

There is a small area in the centerboard trunk I've found that can hold water, that leaked Rain water or wash water in the cabin....more seeping thatn leaking. Might be this and not something deeper.

On the port side, in the forward settee locker, up and over inboard side. It may be trapped there, the pin for the center board is above waterline.

Sure thing loosen the rudder lower from the upper. I have a strap handle that allows me to tighten and looster w/my boat-hook,

I have a nasty habit of chedking depth w/ centerboard and rudder...just like loosing the power steering when I kick up the lower rudder I feel like I'll break the tiller.
08-05-2011 07:37 PM
rmaltz Hi Folks, Last year I was given a '76 Helms 25 from a friend to help me get into sailing and not let the boat go to waste. It needs works but is sea worthy. I have a couple issues to solve if anyone can help. First: I have a leak around the bolt/pin holding up the centerboard. Can I simply remove the 4 bolts and nuts going through it, add some gasket material to each end then reinsert the bolts and nuts? Or will the centerboard drop when I remove the bolts? And Second: The rudder is extremely hard to push down and pull up. Is this normal or can I loosen the bolt and nut a bit? Thanks very much!
03-29-2011 09:23 AM
Wayne25 The Helms 25 has 1650# of fixed ballast in a short fixed keel with a 300# steel centerboard. The centerboard swings up into the fixed keel. With the centerboard up the draft is 20". With the centerboard down the draft is 6'. However, you don't need to sail with the centerboard fully extended. Lowere it just enough to balance the weatherhelm.






I hope this helps.

Wayne
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