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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-26-2011 03:48 PM
Cherie320 If you are just learning to sail - leave it, you can always remove it later. You may find you like the concept of self tacking. It is not hard to rig a small roller furling jib and a boom to try the concept. Used or temporary gear is not expensive. The rig works quite well if you need a small headsail due to heavy winds or if you do lots of short tacks in or out of a tight channel. You may not like it if you do not sail in restricted areas or if the wind is always light. Folks either love or hate self tacking. Down side is smaller headsail and a boom that moves around on the foredeck. Upside is an extra hand for other things when tacking.
11-24-2011 10:52 PM
AdamHowie everyone here is right and it looks very similar to the Hoyt jib boom found on many Island Packett cutter's its too bad you dont have the actual boom that hooks on there, it makes sailings simple
11-20-2011 10:01 PM
mitiempo I can't think of any reasons to keep it, not on a Coronado 27.
11-20-2011 08:39 PM
Is there any reason why I should not remove it?

Thanks to all of you who helped me identify this thing. The previous owner added roller furling to this boat and I am very happy just sailing with the mainsail and the furling jib. I would like to remove this so the foredeck is clear and my guests could use the space to sit or lie on. Any good reasons to keep it in place?
11-20-2011 07:04 PM
Originally Posted by overbored View Post
self tacking jib boom attachment
I agree.
11-20-2011 10:35 AM
RichH Yup, Overboard has nailed it. Its a clubfoot deck attachment. Great for self tacking jibs.
11-20-2011 08:46 AM
CaptainForce Sure, Overboard is right. I call mine a "club foot". You may notice them frequently on Island Packets with a curved forward end,- same thing. Take care and joy, Aythya crew
11-20-2011 08:35 AM
Originally Posted by overbored View Post
self tacking jib boom attachment
11-20-2011 12:15 AM
overbored Drawing to determine location of pedestal and length of jib-boom for a trackless, semi-self-tending jib. You need to know the jib's chord length at your tightest sheeting angle and the chord length at the widest sheeting angle that you intend to tack through. The clew is located at C1 when sailing deeper and the sail is trimmed as full as as the design allows, with the chord at the minimum designed length. The clew is located at C2 when close hauled, and the draft is shallow, with the chord at its maximum designed length. To determine dimensions for deck layout: Draw a line connecting C1 and C2, and find the midpoint, B1. Draw a line perpendicular to C1-C2 thru the midpoint, B1. The pedestal should be located where this line intersects the centerline of the boat(B2). The length of the jib boom is the distance between B2 and C2, which is the same distance as B2 to C1. When you change course from a deep reach to a close haul, trim the boom tighter with the jib sheets on both sides. The chord will increase, and the draft will get shallower. Thereafter, as long as your tacks are symmetrical, the jib will self-tack and be well trimmed. (You need a block outboard about 2/3 of the way back from the front of the club for leading the jib sheet. You trim the jib with the UPWIND sheet.) A more complete discussion of the sheeting can be found in Brion Toss' book _The Rigger's Apprentice_.
11-20-2011 12:06 AM
overbored it is not for a cutter rig, I know I use to sail one just like that one. it is a goose neck for a self tacking jib boom. the boom attaches to the goose neck. the lower eye is for the sheet block that leads the sheet aft. with the boom pivot aft of the sail tack the further in you pull the boom the tighter the sail is stretched along the foot of the sail for sailing up wind, as you let off on the sheet the sail becomes more curved at the foot and the sail can be used on a reach or a run. it can even be used wing and wing by a single handed sailor. by being mounted aft of the bow pulpit the jib boom will go out on a run without hitting the bow pulpit
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