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08-13-2014 01:28 PM
Re: Converting my manual windlass to electric! The math is giving me a migraine...

I've eyed up those automotive type winches for years and just can't help but think there is a "cheap" way to use one. On really larger boats there are really large winches that look just like that. Chain rode of course, requires different thoughts
08-13-2014 11:19 AM
Re: Converting my manual windlass to electric! The math is giving me a migraine...

I believe your fears on this one are groundless. Our old Tigress windlass was over 30 years old when we replaced it, and operating flawlessly when we did so, electrically. Unfortunately the legs had corroded off it and it was no longer secured well to the deck.
If you buy a quality windless it should last over 30 years, and longer if you wash the salt off and cover it. A new Tigress (a good size for your boat and an easy install) can be had for around $1500 complete. Do not buy a vertical as they are a difficult install compared to a horizontal windlass and less reliable. Though every electric windlass does have a manual back up, in many instances your gene sheet winches might be a better solution to an electrical failure, anyway.
08-13-2014 12:17 AM
Capt Len
Re: Converting my manual windlass to electric! The math is giving me a migraine...

Can you guarantee it's going to start? If not, a lot of stuff is ballast.
08-12-2014 11:56 PM
Re: Converting my manual windlass to electric! The math is giving me a migraine...

Here's a Product;
A full-time cruising boat has need of occasional extra muscle, but since flogging is illegal, having slave crew is a bit fussy nowadays. Wouldn't it be great to flog the rowers to shore, drum the anchor crew 3 times in a stormy night's poor anchorage, or send 'em to shore to haul fresh water!?
Enter technology;
A modern substitute might be a portable power head, maybe based on the Robin 50cc engine, which you would temporarily clamp onto your manual windlass via chain drive. Then to your Outboard's lower unit, or to your CAT Pump water-maker. One chunk of small engine for all three jobs of Windlass, outboard, and watermaker. Plus more, i'm sure.... on a smaller Cruiser, such a modular system could save much space & weight. Crazy or Brilliant?
12-20-2011 11:25 PM
rg500 not a problem, it will be my turn next....
12-20-2011 08:23 PM
Capt Len Sorry wolf. It appears I've forgot more grade10 physics than I thought . think of it as an elder moment.I should have reread what I mumbled.
12-20-2011 05:07 PM
rg500 excuse me, but 1 hp is 33,00 ft/lbs per minute. a larger than average horse can lift a 330 lb weight 100 feet in about one minute....therefore 1 hp.

550 is the amount of work done in one second....33000/60....

just so we are all on the same page here....
12-19-2011 09:20 PM
Originally Posted by Capt Len View Post
.(hint 550 per min=1 hp)
Can you elaborate on the hint? How did you transpose HP to feet per minute? Wouldn't tbe speed be dictated by rotation speed of the motor and gearing?

12-19-2011 01:09 AM
Capt Len How many pound feet per minute is one and a third horsepower? Do you figure that would be enough power to pull 500 lbs of chain from a deep water drop in a reasonable time, say 5 min at a manageable speed? They're not called wild cats for nothing .(hint 550 per min=1 hp)Anything left over could be helpful with sunken logs, boomchains and just stuff.
12-16-2011 05:36 PM
Originally Posted by MedSailor View Post
Yes I probably should, and will, end up with a massive lofrans or similar setup. I do like your suggestion of finding one where the motor can be removed without too much hassle. That should help allay my fears of it seizing. Even though it'll likely be money well spent the huge expense of a windlass is hard to swallow, especially when there could be a cheaper option lurking....

WOW. Which windlass was that? What sizing algorithm did you use??


PS Any info on average depth of anchorages in OZ?
Sizing Algorrithm ? Wow. I have no idea what that actually means.

The windlass was (is) a Muir Cub. Muir themselves reckon it is undersized for that boat (the old girl) but once I had rebuilt it, it performed faultlessly. By the time we had the piece of the trawler just below the surface the windlass was straining but it did the job. Pulled the bow done about 12'' from memory, this on a 34' steel sloop around 7t. I was impressed.

Anchorages in Oz will vary a great deal. StAnna would have more info for up north than I would but the deepest water I have anchored in was 25metres and that was unusual. It was of course here that the Muir gave up the ghost and I had to haul in 35 metres of chain (plus line and anchor of course). On that occasion the gearbox had completely stripped itself but the motor was still OK so I had a bit of help. Later, having replaced the gearbox, the motor also died and then I used sheet winch which worked but was slow and tedious. Overall I should have heeded Muir's advice and simple bought a new one but to their credit they still helped with the rebuild.

Ref the seizing, i still think it is more likely that an electrical motor when burnt out would still spin and that a seizing problem would be more gears or shaft related. (I could be wrong of course).
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