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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Islander > I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-23-2014 11:14 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

great info...
I cruised on a boat extensively made of paneling was a steel french boat...almost everything was accessible via panels, the hull and cabin that is

every single panel had glued on vynil or just wood veneer...the vynil covered ones also had BUTTONS each panel was attached via either velcro strips or fasteners or screws

multiply this by the interior area needed to be covered and you can see why its a great idea but MASSIVE job

the captain of this boat did all his interior and said he would never do a job like this again...but he also had to do cabinetry...floors, ceilings, bulkheads etc...everything however the finishing took him waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay longer than he expected
11-23-2014 07:59 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Im in the trade so have done a few of these. For starts just to let you know this is the most painful expensive upholstery job you can undertake. The MFA time sheet lists this at 4 hrs per yard of material used. So at a shop rate of say $60 an hour your looking at $275-$300 per yard is what your saving by doing it yourself.

My favorite method of doing headliners would be with foamboard panels. The pvc foamboard is wonderful stuff. Its super light, easy to cut and tool, takes fasteners with a good grip and with a heat gun can be molded into curves and recesses. The sheets come in 1/4" , 1/2" , and 3/4". Ideally these would be installed with the fastmount system

The fastmount allows the panels to be pulled down for access to those bolts that you wanted to get at. Over the foamboard a perforated or solid foam backed vinyl is typically used. Its a pita to glue even to panels but leaves a nice comfortable finish. With the panel system the vinyl can be rolled over the edges and stapled so its not considered unsupported vinyl. Which very few adhesives work for.

Just my two cents. anyway you do it remember this is a high dollar venture that your doing yourself. I price glue up vinyl so high I hope to never get another. Its that bad.
11-23-2014 12:26 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

bingo...I know I can fetch more money for my boat for example with just some interior decoration(headliner, trim...more fairing.

but when youre out of $$$ you pretty much cant so Ill wait with my temporary solution

FOR NOW! jajaja
11-21-2014 06:13 PM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Originally Posted by christian.hess View Post
downeast thats what I did on my 36, temporary but with wood trim and some fairing the white celing paint and white sides brightened my interior 1000%

even in the tropics my old interior was damp, old and very dark with all the brown vynil and brown dark plywood veneer on the sides
I think this is the best overall solution and you can always add a headliner of your choice and method. The advantage to having just paint is you don't trap any water, you can see where you have leaks, less mold possibilities, choose your color, less money for parts, can be done with one person, and gives a brighter roomier feel to the interior. However, not as of refined finished appearance to the interior. Just have to ask yourself what is the boat actually worth, personal attachment left out, we all love our boats, but not everyone love our boats as we do when shelling out the bucks to buy.
11-20-2014 11:27 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

downeast thats what I did on my 36, temporary but with wood trim and some fairing the white celing paint and white sides brightened my interior 1000%

even in the tropics my old interior was damp, old and very dark with all the brown vynil and brown dark plywood veneer on the sides
11-20-2014 06:34 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

The headliner on our I-28 IS coming down this storage season. After playing with leaks that are controlled by covering the companionway hatch with a tarp, I have concluded the inside "cover/base" of the sliding hatch cover's "drawer" is leaking into the boat under the headliner. That part was fiberglassed to an inverted deck molding. It seems to be leaking along its starboard side. Years of uncovered storage with ice forming where ever water could sit. It needs to be sealed and re engineered to drain properly. Then insulate and replace the headliner! Ugh? A lot of time invested in this old boat. Yup! I don't mind investing some of my "retirement time" working on the little craft I enjoy. I like being thoroughly familiar with it. There probably is a point of diminishing returns on money spent. Time, not so much. After I repair the leak I might just paint the ceilings with white two part epoxy as a first step. There are a couple of other little projects that require access to the inside fiberglass surface.

11-14-2014 02:22 PM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Sorry for taking so long to post a reply. I have almost finished my headliner replacement in the saloon area. I use a matt finished FRP and mahogany battens to cover the seams. I used 3/4" blocks bonded to the fiberglass in locations as needed for screws in the battens, and to space the FRP off the hull to account for hardware and electrical. Seams for the FRP can also be covered with plastic strips made for the FRP.
The FRP comes in several colors and finishes. I choose matt white, but the most popular finish is the ice white, a textured rough finish.
Here is a link to Home Depot that has the FRP Ice finish. I had to special order the Matt finish from my local hardware and lumber store.
4 ft. x 8 ft. White .090 FRP Wall Board-MFTF12IXA480009600 at The Home Depot

I will try to get some pictures posted up in the next week or so. I also used mahogany 3/4 X 1/8 strips with rounded corners to cover the 3/4 welting used on the original liner. I use a mahogany 1 1/2 X 3/16 X 8' strips for my battens.

Summation of the project
If I had to do it all over again, I would just remove the headliner, put a quick sand job on the fiberglass, and paint it matt white. Yes you can see the hardware, and may have to put a few electrical ties to secure the wiring, but I think it would be an easier way to go. After all, I have a 1971 boat, and its only worth so much.
Making patterns, placing the blocks, etc, took loads of time, effort, and two people for most of the project. The sand and paint is a once person job for the most part.

Cons to sanding and painting, is the mess, using the correct equipment for sanding the fiberglass. I rather suit up, wear a hat, respirator, and vacuum sander, then have to do all of the measuring, cutting, and bonding blocks.

Pros of FRP headliner it looks better then sanding and painting. So, it's your call on how much work you want to spend on the headliner.

Hope this helped you
I'll be back soon with pics of my FRP headliner.
09-29-2014 08:02 PM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Sorry, but my nefarious plan was to encourage all those other guys to do their headliners first and then I'd piggyback on their efforts. They must have seen right through me because I never heard back from anyone. So my headliner looks about the same as it did last year - a saggy, rust-stained monument to my lack of ambition. One good thing is that as the staples fail and the zippers disintegrate, access to the underside of the deck fittings gets easier and easier. But if you ever decide to replace your headliner please post the pictures. soto voce Heh Heh. Another one on the line!.
09-29-2014 09:32 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Did you have success with your headliner replacement?

I read the thread here with interest and wondered how it worked out for you. I have a Freedom 30 which we have been sailing for 2 years without a headliner while we try to figure out how to retain good access to hardware and wiring while still beautifying interior of cabin roof. Condensation, fortunately, is not one of our problems.
03-31-2013 12:46 PM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Originally Posted by 510datsun View Post
thanks for the links on the spray on foam, may check in to using it on the boat. I have seen a spray on rubberized product used for car undercoating, an Eastwood Auto Supply product, don't know if it would work to insulate, but easy to spray on. The product can be painted, comes in black, and adheres to fiberglass. I was thinking the rubberized coating would be enough to provide a thermal barrier to prevent the condensation on the hull. The product can be sprayed or comes in a brush on form too. The product would be easy to control where you want to apply the finish. You could paint it too.

What do you think?
An interesting solution. I am not sure how the thermal properties compare. I will go with the marine 2 part foam. A small kit will do the ceilings and the hull where appropriate. Down to the wl. I am looking for improved heating, too. The ice box will also get some around its outside.

Rubberized Undercoating

Originally Posted by 510datsun View Post
Thanks, I really do love the Islander 28 inside and out! It's a good thing too, cause I'm putting in lots of hours fixing problems inherited from years of neglect by previous owners.
I know what you mean. I am in the same boat!
Originally Posted by 510datsun View Post
Above the stove is an old small florescent light, I actually like the light, it's not an obnoxious as most florescent lights, it was there when I purchased the boat.
No light like that in mine.

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