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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-13-2017 04:43 PM
Fstbttms
Re: Gori Prop Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVAuspicious View Post
I sling a tarp under the propeller tied off to the toe rails. Anything I drop ends up in the tarp. I suspect that the confidence the safety net (literally) gives me is why I've never dropped anything.
While I too have a "safety net," I don't use it on most folding props as they aren't typically complex enough to require it. Some feathering props (Max Prop, for instance) are a different story. The day I show up for that installation without it is the day I drop and/or lose something.

02-13-2017 04:32 PM
SVAuspicious
Re: Gori Prop Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
When I think about having to replace several thousand dollar prop blades if someone messes up the finicky assembly process, the cost of pulling the prop and doing the work on land is a small price to pay for the insurance that the prop is more likely to have been assembled correctly while working on shore.
I don't have nearly the experience that @Fstbttms has. So I use a crutch. I sling a tarp under the propeller tied off to the toe rails. Anything I drop ends up in the tarp. I suspect that the confidence the safety net (literally) gives me is why I've never dropped anything.
02-13-2017 04:21 PM
Fstbttms
Re: Gori Prop Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
The reason I suggest either pulling the prop and do the work on land, or do the work while the boat is hauled, is not about the Locktite per se, but about the difficulty of precisely aligning the pivot pin and installing the pairs of setscrews under water.

When I think about having to replace several thousand dollar prop blades if someone messes up the finicky assembly process, the cost of pulling the prop and doing the work on land is a small price to pay for the insurance that the prop is more likely to have been assembled correctly while working on shore.
Take it from someone who has installed many Gori props underwater with a 100% success rate and zero lost parts- it's not a big deal.

Not a Gori installation, but you get the idea:

https://youtu.be/2q3ntQF_Csk

https://youtu.be/y3WaOWestWQ
02-13-2017 02:05 PM
Jeff_H
Re: Gori Prop Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fstbttms View Post
Haul the boat? Pull the prop? To put Loctite on a couple of set screws?


If the boat is in the water, remove the set screws, apply Loctite 248 to them and reinstall. This Loctite product will cure underwater. Do not apply it underwater however.
The reason I suggest either pulling the prop and do the work on land, or do the work while the boat is hauled, is not about the Locktite per se, but about the difficulty of precisely aligning the pivot pin and installing the pairs of setscrews under water.

When I think about having to replace several thousand dollar prop blades if someone messes up the finicky assembly process, the cost of pulling the prop and doing the work on land is a small price to pay for the insurance that the prop is more likely to have been assembled correctly while working on shore.

Respectfully,
Jeff
02-13-2017 01:07 PM
aa3jy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fstbttms View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
You don't apply the Locktite underwater.
Do not apply it underwater however
again
02-13-2017 12:22 PM
colemj
Re: Gori Prop Problem

I now use this almost exclusively for medium thread locking, but particularly for underwater use: https://www.vibra-tite.com/products/...-3-threadmate/

Put it on, it dries almost instantly, then install underwater. You can pre-apply to spares so they are ready to go whenever. Most fasteners that come pre-applied with a thread locker use this.

I also have the Loctite 248 "chapstick", but prefer the VC-3 for underwater use.

Mark
02-13-2017 10:41 AM
Fstbttms
Re: Gori Prop Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
You don't apply the Locktite underwater. You either haul the boat or remove the prop and do it on land. You don't need to remove the blades to remove the prop and the set screws are only for the pivot pins for the blades.
Haul the boat? Pull the prop? To put Loctite on a couple of set screws?


If the boat is in the water, remove the set screws, apply Loctite 248 to them and reinstall. This Loctite product will cure underwater. Do not apply it underwater however.
02-13-2017 09:52 AM
Jeff_H
Re: Gori Prop Problem

You don't apply the Locktite underwater. You either haul the boat or remove the prop and do it on land. You don't need to remove the blades to remove the prop and the set screws are only for the pivot pins for the blades.

The OP did not say whether this was a prop for a saildrive or a conventional shaft, but the prop installation for the particular sail drive in my former boat was very finicky. The installation used very precise thickness plastic and metal washers some which I believe had internal tapers to be installed in the proper sequence and orientation, and a crown nut that had to be installed facing backwards to what I think most folks would consider the normal orientation. It was all locked in place by a cotter pin through the crown nut. The local divers could remove the prop and replace the zinc underwater, but my diver had me paint the washers red on one side and white on the other so that they could quickly tell forward and aft on the parts.

At least one boat in our fleet lost its prop, but the assumption at the time was it was an installation error. The yard that hauled my boat refused to touch those props under any circumstances due to their concerns about potential problems with the installation. That said, this may not have been a Gori problem but an issue with the saildrive design.

Jeff
02-13-2017 08:16 AM
aa3jy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fstbttms View Post
You want Loctite 242 on those screws.
How does one apply Loctite underwater?
02-13-2017 06:42 AM
Jeff_H
Re: Gori Prop Problem

I want to comment on this thread. My previous boat had a Gori prop. In the 14 years that I knew the history of that boat the prop failed at least four separate times and Gori's warranty policy was to deny responsibility under all circumstances.

If you live in North America Gori requires that you ship the failed prop back to the factory. They would not accept the findings of their own North American representative as to why the prop failed. Gori's hipping and handling costs was wildly expensive. They were grossly non-responsive to emails or phone calls, They required money be wired into their account before they would ship the prop, which I understood, but then despite paying for expedited shipping and handling, Gori did not ship the prop for nearly three weeks during the sailing season.

I was not alone in this. The owners of sisterships experienced exactly what I did. We actually approached other manufacturers trying to get them to produce props with a spline pattern fitting our saildrive.

The experience was so horrible that I would not buy a Gori prop and would consider it a deal breaker if I were considering buying a boat that required one.

Regarding the setscrews, the setscrews need to align with the recess in the pivot pin. The first pin needs to be tightened enough lock the pin tightly into place and the second pin needs to be tight enough to act as a locknut. Both need to be put into place with the right locktite.

Jeff
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