|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-15-2012 12:01 AM|
Re: New owner
I put a boom kicker vang on my B30. It is relatively inexpensive, and does away with the topping lift. Its nice to have the boom free supported when cruising. another way to secure your reef line is to tie it around the boom. You need either a loose foot main or a grommet in the foot to pass the reef line through. On my original main, I just didnt put the bolt rope on the foot into the slot on the boom. I needed to do a loose foot because the shackle on one of the main blocks broke in a gibe and I had to lash the block on. Worked well and when I bought a new main, they made it loose footed.
|07-14-2012 03:28 PM|
Re: New owner
I tie the topping lift on my boat to a horn cleat on the underside of the boom just aft of the mainsheet shivs. I want to install a solid vang. It would help the sail shape considerably down wind, but it is fairly low on my priority list. As you might guess, I don't race.
|07-14-2012 01:43 PM|
Re: New owner
Current setup on the boom is (I think), one reef, on starboard pulley, outhaul in middle, and topping lift on port side. If you have 2 reefs, where is your topping lift (or do you run a solid vang)
|07-13-2012 08:30 PM|
Islander Bahama Reefing System
The early and mid '80s Islander Bahama setup is just the clue line portion of the two line slab reefing system. The tack reefing line is replaced by the reefing hook on the gooseneck.
Don't bend the clue reefing line onto the reefing cringle at the leech of the sail. That would only provide a 1:1 mechanical advantage and you would have a very difficult time getting the reefed foot properly tight. Instead, locate a padeye on the side of the boom, slightly aft of that reef point. Bend the reefing line onto it, run it through the cringle, then into the shiv at the aft end of the boom and out the shiv near the goose neck by the cam lock. That setup gives you a 2:1 mechanical advantage. This diagram illustrates how the clue line should run -- note the dotted line where the line runs from padeye up the far side of the sail to and through the cringle, then down to the boom in the left-hand diagram of the system 1 illustration. Yours will run to the end of the boom instead of to a turning block.
The reefing point in the luff should hook over that ram's horn reefing hook on the goose neck. It will look something like these do. In fact, mine is the K-10501. Point B in the inset of the right hand diagram for system 1 in the aforementioned URL is pretty close to our system.
Your mainsail should have two reefs. Conveniently, the Kenyon boom can handle two reef lines. You'll note there are two shiv paths in the boom and a cam lock on each side of the boom at the goose neck.
I have found leaving sail ties in the first line of reefing points all the time gratly speeds up reefing. It may not be pretty, but I don't want to stand on the cabin top any longer than I have to when the wind is freshening and we are bouncing around.
There have been lots of reefing discussions here on Sailnet over the years, and they are worth reading. Use Google to find them with a query like "site:sailnet.com reefing" but without the quotes, of course.
|07-10-2012 09:35 PM|
Wondered if I could get some help. I'm new to sailing and boating in general, having just purchased a 1983 Islander Bahama 30. It has a Kenyon boom, and I'm unclear about the whole reefing setup. The boom has a cam lock near the front for the reefing line, and it goes thru the boom and out the back, over a block/pulley.
I see the reefing clew on the main, I'm just not sure, does the line tie directly to the clew in the main, or does it go thru the clew and back around the boom?
There are no cleats on the boom underneath the reefing clew, and no signs that any ever existed. In the owners manual it looks like the reefing line comes down to the boom, but I'm not at all sure how?