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"Rubberize" base of Propane tank(s)?

9K views 20 replies 13 participants last post by  eherlihy 
#1 ·
Has anyone used an automotive "undercoating" or rubberizing type of product on the base of your propane tanks to prevent rusting and accompanying stains on fiberglass? I've got two 10 pounders in the gas-locker for the galley range and stove and was thinking of putting a 20# on the stern to feed the BBq.

I was at autostore and they have a couple of products from "Dupli-color" to rubberize or undercoat the car. Label says they are rubber, shake can, apply etc etc...

I was thinking of putting 2-3 coats around the base/ring of my propane tanks to stop rusting and put a "soft" layer between the base of the tank and the deck.

I looked for a Rhino brand can but could not find it, might consider that brand based on the thickness I've seen in truck beds.

Thoughts, experience with this?
 
#2 ·
Sounds like a good idea, but I think the down side will probably outweigh the benefit.
I think you're going to create a perpetual wet environment for your propane tank's bottoms that is going to increase corrosion - the problem is you wont see it as it will be hidden under that swanky new rubberized coating.

Pete
 
#3 ·
I believe that corrosion protection on cars is done by the paint, then there is a layer of rubberised coating that exists to prevent the paint from physical damage. In other words, the coating won't prevent the metal from rust unless there is a very effective paint layer underneath.

I think the best suggestion I've heard is to apply a layer of epoxy to the bottom of the tank.
 
#5 ·
That sort of underliner is intended for the automotive environment. It is mostly dry, and when not dry is wetted with dirty fresh water. The marine environment is wetter. It is also saltier and therefore more corrosive, unless you are on a lake. I mention these facts because I think the stuff is about as waterproof as gelcoat, which isn't completely waterproof.

Despite not being waterproof, it might work. But it will probably work better if you put it on a new tank so it protects the integrity of the paint, which in turn provides the corrosion protection you seek.
 
#12 ·
The problem with undercoating is that it never really dries. You will end up with nasty tar like stains on what ever you set the tank on. POR15 will really do the trick. it is basically and epoxy paint, and is available in small containers as well. So one can will do a couple of tanks, and perhaps a few other things too. It is very tough and good at preventing rust. Not sure how it would effect getting the tank re-certified when the time comes. They may not allow repainting, I am not sure about that. I am sure they would not like a thick tar like paint that would prevent you from seeing the rust.
 
#17 ·
All,
very good ideas. The POR15 seems to be the RollsRoyce of coatings, the wound tank is another good idea but right now I'm hemorraging cash on this new boat so the BRILLIANT idea of a pot from the garden center is the way to go; suspect less than $5. I may just have a bottom from one of my wife's current pots that will do nicely. It's all going into storage in 4 weeks so I'm about recycling home products right now.

Thanks to all for the great links and good ideas.
 
#18 · (Edited)
First I bought a 10# fiberglass tank. Love it but.....need a 5#'er. So I bought a new 5#'er and started applying coats of plastidip, The stuff you dip your tool(stop right there!) handles in. But I felt it would wear through. Bought door edge guard trim at the auto part store. Cut to length. Fits tight and keeps tank edge off the boat. No more rust.
 
#19 ·
Door edge guard, very nice. I'll have to look at my tank and see the finish of the base if it has a rolled edge or not. The door edge guard may prove neater than the simple pot base. The latter holding water (even with the pre-made holes in these) and not being the "exact" diameter. Suspect there would be a length of edge guard left over to tuck away for replacement sometime down the road....
THanks
 
#20 ·
The problem with applying coatings is what may be happening UNDER the coating. In order to avoid that, I'd suggest just cleaning the tank, applying a couple of coats of a durable paint, and then placing a rubber pad in the storage compartment to prevent any more wear.

With a 20# tank (which seems to be 17# under the new math) you are likely to be swapping it out, not refilling it, at some point. Which also means you won't have to pay for tank inspections. Better to leave them naked, or add some more plain white paint, and avoid issues there too.
 
#21 ·
Simple solution...

I was looking at the composite tanks for my O'day 35, but was concerned about fitting in the locker, and the price. The bottom of my steel 10lb tank looked pretty bad, and it was 16 years old.

My old tank looked like the one on the left in this picture (except with a lot more rust around the bottom):eek:


I bought a new 10lb tank for ~$60 (including shipping) filled it ($4), then coated the bottom "ring" with 4200 UV Fast Cure in white. The 4200 UV matches the paint perfectly. It looks like it came that way, and I believe that it won't ever rust. The new tank looks like the one on the right.
 
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