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Removing paint

3K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  sailingfool 
#1 ·
Does anyone know if, after removing paint from the topsides, you can leave the areas unpainted to restore the original color? This assumes the painted areas underneath are in good condition, other than being painted.
 
#5 ·
Painting

Jotun said:
Does anyone know if, after removing paint from the topsides, you can leave the areas unpainted to restore the original color? This assumes the painted areas underneath are in good condition, other than being painted.
Jotun,

Once a hull has been painted, it usually stays painted, as the rationale for the original decision to paint never goes away. You shouldn't assume the areas underneath are in good condition, or the boat wouldn't be painted...

A careful handyman can do a "looks Ok" paint job, not to be confused with the results seen from professional Awlgrip. I think its pretty unusual to replace gelcoat, you'd have to remove all the old, then professionally spray new. Cheaper to professionally Awlgrip.

Try to provide some additional information. Do you know why the boat was painted, and how? Why do you want to remove the paint? When you say "restore the original color" - is the boat any color other than white - if it is not white, you will paint again, as colored gelcoat at best doesn't last long, and once faded can only be brought back temporarily (say, long enough to sell a boat...)
 
#6 ·
I saw this boat for sale and the owner had started a topside paint job in a color I don't prefer, so I wondered how to remedy the situation. Because the paint is incomplete, it would need something done. I was wondering what the best solution would be. I guess you could always repaint with white. But then you would be trying to cover a color, which I'm guessing would require more coats and more work, much like house paint.
 
#7 ·
I would be uncomfortable trusting the paint that is on there now anyway, so you would have to strip it off before repainting anyway. Assume the worst, include the cost of a professional job. You didn't say how big the boat was, but I think a 40 footer would run in the neighborhood of 15-18k.
 
#8 ·
BTW, one thing that hasn't been mentioned here that probably should be. If any significant repairs were done using epoxy, to re-build or repair the deck or topsides, then paint is the only alternative. Epoxy is highly susceptible to UV damage and must be protected, however, gelcoat won't stick to epoxy...so paint is your only real choice.
 
#9 ·
Jotun

For ultimate satisfaction, it sounds like you'd better be resigned to removing the old paint, properly prepping the hull and respraying with a good 2part Polyurethane or epoxy primers and paint. Such a job, done properly will out-last, out-look, and out-perform an after-the-fact gel coat job.

What you are describing sounds like a bit of a botched DIY job, so putting anything on top is risky. Get down to the bare glass, consult your supplier of choice and use all the proper materials, primers, reducers, as recommended.

Doing anything else will risk losing the considerable investment of time and money on the project.

To be considering purchasing a boat in that condition should mean a substantial price reduction over the average for that model of boat.

Be sure you're prepared to take on a project like that. These days it usually means finding an enclosed place to work, few yards will let you sand and spray anymore. The costs of rentals, storage, lift and transport fees should be factored into your equation as well.
 
#10 ·
word of caution on spraying 2 part epoxy paints....... everything i read says NOT to spray them by the average diy-er. way too specialized equipment for that kind of spraying.

a few good books on refinishing bottoms and tops are out there with convincing pics of brush and roller jobs. but 2 part is what they recommend.
this is in my plan for a 20', but i also have smaller boats to practice on first. so i don't have ,as yet, solid advice to offer :(

someone smarter, more experienced, and better than i may give a differing opinion on what i believe. good luck to you.
bob
 
#11 ·
The boat is 27'. And it looks as though the owner simply rolled on the paint in the areas that are painted. It is exactly a botched DIY job, or an unfinished one in the least. Here I was thinking I could simply paint over it in a weekend. Maybe I won't have a second look at the boat....
 
#13 ·
I'm in the middle of painting my 27' boat, which doesn't make me an expert but I am learning.

I work every weekend on it. I get a coat of paint on once a week, usually on Sunday. Sometimes if I'm lucky I can get it prepped (sanded) one or two evenings during the week, then paint Friday night and again Sunday. I'm using Interlux perfection paint, and by all appearances it is a very fine paint. I'm using the roll and tip method and I'm very pleased with the results. After the initial prep work of finding and filling all of the little nicks and dings (and there were a lot more than it looked like) I applied 3 coats of epoxy primer. Each coat of primer required a sanding with 220 grit paper. I used a random orbital sander for 2 coats, but wet sanded with a sanding block on one coat just to make it as straight as possible. Orbital sanding took about 4-5 hours, hand sanding took twice that.

Then came the white boot stripe. Each coat had to be wet sanded with 400 between coats. The paint had to dry (inside my shop) for at least 18 hours before it would sand without balling up. 3 coats later and I wet sanded the stripe with 1000 grit paper.

Then came the dark blue. Same process as the white except I got some 600 grit paper for my orbital for the first 2 coats. I've got my second coat of blue on, and I'll do 4 coats because it doesn't cover all that well. Then I'll hit it with the 1000 grit, then a buffer.

They say you can roll and tip the paint for professional results. It's true that the paint does shine well enough with a roller and brush. The shine really is impressive. The problem is keeping the dirt out of it. My shop just isn't clean enough to keep the paint clean, so I have to sand it out and buff.

If you really want to buy someone elses nightmare, at least now you know how big the party is.

BTW scaffolding helps a lot.
 
#14 ·
Jotun said:
The boat is 27'. And it looks as though the owner simply rolled on the paint in the areas that are painted. It is exactly a botched DIY job, or an unfinished one in the least. Here I was thinking I could simply paint over it in a weekend. Maybe I won't have a second look at the boat....
You might be able to paint over it in one weekend, but you'll need five or ten weekends to properly prepare the hull for the paint!! If you do this painting for the first time, my advice is to paint it white as white will be the most forgiving of mistakes...
 
#16 ·
Few areas ...only

Jotun said:
Thanks for the input everyone. The paint, however, is in a few areas on the topsides only. It's seems like a much smaller job than the hull would be.
Jotun,

I guess your comment is unclear - so what if the paint is ONLY in a few areas - if the way it is right now is not satisfactory, then a satisfactory correction for the way it is right now would likely be to paint the entire hull...or what is the tread about?
 
#18 ·
sailingdog said:
BTW, one thing that hasn't been mentioned here that probably should be. If any significant repairs were done using epoxy, to re-build or repair the deck or topsides, then paint is the only alternative. Epoxy is highly susceptible to UV damage and must be protected, however, gelcoat won't stick to epoxy...so paint is your only real choice.
This isn't necessarily true, according to Epoxy Works Inc, gelcoat does indeed adhere to epoxy. Real world test with data is here:

http://www.epoxyworks.com/22/polyester.html

Rick in Florida
 
#19 · (Edited)
Rick-

Most gelcoat manufacturers advise against using gelcoat on epoxy from what I've seen, and it even says so on the Epoxyworks page you've posted a link of.

Further, the tests you show only have 9 weeks worth of data. I would be far less skeptical and far more likely to accept the results if they had data from a wider variety of boats, rather than just test laminates, which are not subjected to the stress that boat hulls and decks are, and if the tests were for longer than two months. Also, in some of the graphs, the strength of the bond drops over 10%, which I certainly would consider significant. Particularly note that most of the graphs peak and then trend downwards. IF this trend continues, even at a decelerating rate, the amount of strength lost in the bond over a year would be highly significant.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I would suggest that you take a few minutes and read the article. The PATTI test results are impressive, and will rewrite all the textbooks.

Do you have any idea of the liability this company would incurr if this data isn't solid?

Really..... think this through before insisting that hard data is wrong and you're the one who's right.

Unbelievable

Rick in Florida
 
#22 ·
One of the big questions to ask yourself is do you want a 10 ft. paint job or a 10 in. paint job, the work and expense are inversly proportinal, If you bought an older 27 footer to play around the bay in a 10-15 k paint job might be a bit over the top, but a couple weekends and $150 for a decent 1 part topside paint will make it look much better than now, and last a few years, plus leave more in the kitty if you're not "Daddy Warbucks". Art.
 
#23 ·
Rickm505 said:
I would suggest that you take a few minutes and read the article. The PATTI test results are impressive, and will rewrite all the textbooks.

Do you have any idea of the liability this company would incurr if this data isn't solid?

Really..... think this through before insisting that hard data is wrong and you're the one who's right.

Unbelievable

Rick in Florida
I've read the entire article that is on that link. The test panels were just that... test panels. They were not actual hulls or boats. The test panels were in a humidity chamber, not immersed in water.

What part of

Further, the tests you show only have 9 weeks worth of data. I would be far less skeptical and far more likely to accept the results if they had data from a wider variety of boats, rather than just test laminates, which are not subjected to the stress that boat hulls and decks are, and if the tests were for longer than two months. Also, in some of the graphs, the strength of the bond drops over 10%, which I certainly would consider significant. Particularly note that most of the graphs peak and then trend downwards. IF this trend continues, even at a decelerating rate, the amount of strength lost in the bond over a year would be highly significant.
did you not understand. I am looking at their data, and their testing methods...and saying that they would have to do a lot more testing before I believe that gelcoat on epoxy is as good as gelcoat on polyester or vinylester resin.

One is a purely mechanical bond-the other is a chemical bond, which results in the two layers becoming a single physical layer.
:rolleyes:

The graphs do show a drop in strength in most cases, but do not give you any idea what the long term strength would be, say in a year's time.

If you're incapable of understanding what I wrote....that's your problem. :eek:
 
#24 ·
Change the answer?

Jotun said:
Oops. I'm showing my novice experience. Sorry. I meant deck.... Does this change the answer to my question then?
Jotun

A bit. Painting a deck is more difficult and time-consuming than painting the topsides (hull), due to the masking and gear removal/reinstallation needed. I'd say its not a frequently done job, and to be avoided unless done professionally or very carefully. After all YOU can't see the hull while you're sailing, but the deck/cocpit is constantly in front of you, up close. If the deck is partially painted and the appearance is not satisfatory, unless the seller agrees to compensate for a pro job (say $150/foot, maybe more for a deck?) then I'd move on...more so than a hull question.
 
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