SailNet Community - Reply to Topic
Thread: Bilge pump non return valve. Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Click here to view the posting rules you are bound to when clicking the
'Submit Reply' button below


  Topic Review (Newest First)
2 Weeks Ago 07:12 PM
smurphny
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic30 View Post
That's right.. one day it will simply not work.

I check my mechanical switch most every time I visit the boat - simply lift it up to ensure the pump runs, pumping out what little trickled in since my last visit.
Yep. I made up a nice s.s. mounting bar extending into the bilge with two of those expensive electronic switches ("Water Witch" or some such thing) mounted at different levels only to have one fail after less than a year operating a miniscule Rule pump. I would not buy another. Just writing it off as a failed experiment.
2 Weeks Ago 07:02 PM
Classic30
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhwelch View Post
One big advantage of an non-mechanical sensor is that it will never jam and fail on or fail off.
That's right.. one day it will simply not work.

I check my mechanical switch most every time I visit the boat - simply lift it up to ensure the pump runs, pumping out what little trickled in since my last visit.
2 Weeks Ago 04:46 PM
jhwelch
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

One thing I have not seen in the recent posts is changing the method by which the pump is being activated. My pump has a non-mechanical sensor with two sensing spots. The high position starts the pump and the low position shuts if off; the difference in their heights allows for a generous amount of run-back from the hose (but then my bilge is very generous in size, so I don't suffer from the run-back problem).

One big advantage of an non-mechanical sensor is that it will never jam and fail on or fail off.
2 Weeks Ago 01:46 PM
GaryHLucas
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

Don't over complicate this. Install the second small pump completely separate from the big pump, with its own switch and through hull. Put the switch lower than the big pump switch. The little pump will then take care of all small leakage. If the big pump ever kicks on you clearly have a big problem to deal with. But it won't be clogged or worn out, and your battery will stay up much longer.
3 Weeks Ago 12:01 AM
Capt Len
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

GTX, is it possible to to take the discharge hose straight up to highest point and then 30' to the outlet. (anti syphon off course) That way only the vertical part drains back.
3 Weeks Ago 11:42 PM
Gary Krieger
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

I had the same problem. Someone recommended I take the spring out of the non-return valve and cut it down, then replace it. That might help.
Gary
3 Weeks Ago 10:17 PM
BryceGTX
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Len View Post
Gary, the problem there is that when the pump shuts off the water still in the longer bigger hose runs back and the pump starts up again.
I agree.. My discharge hose is about 30 feet long.. Lots of water in that hose. The loop does not work because the loop is at the end of the hose. Absolutely useless for the back flow problem. Fortunately Rule has a pump that is design with a tricuspid valve for bilge pump applications.. ..specifically for this back flow problem.. It is the Lopro 900..

It is the only centrifugal pump that really works in my boat. The big problem with centrifugal pumps with or without one way valves at the outlet is mostly that the pump chamber gets air in it after emptying the bilge. The one way valve does not let the air out, so the pump cavitates next time it turns on.

So the pump must be designed to let this air out. This problem plagued me in my fridge pumps, air conditioning pumps and shower pumps until I realized what was happening.
Bryce
3 Weeks Ago 11:19 AM
Capt Len
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

Gary, the problem there is that when the pump shuts off the water still in the longer bigger hose runs back and the pump starts up again.My solution was adding a small pump and small hose to the system. Triggered by a time delay switch from auto head light delay. It got its power from the hot side of the float switch and trigger from the other side.After the big pump shut down it ran for(adjustable )up to 3 minutes and slurped up the dregs Also used same idea in the head to run the vent fan .(needed after I'd left the room)
3 Weeks Ago 10:03 AM
GaryHLucas
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

You need a loop in the hose above the water line with a vacuum breaker valve on top of the loop. Don't make the loop too high as the vacuum breaker prevents siphoning out, which helps the pump flow. With a vacuum breaker in the line the pump has to lift the water to the top of the loop. Make the hose larger while you are at it. You now have a longer hose and you don't want any friction loss on a pump that can't produce very much flow against any kind of head, friction or height.
3 Weeks Ago 08:54 AM
albrazzi
Re: Bilge pump non return valve.

Nomad, I had a similar situation on my slack bilged CS30 and after sorting all the things that let water into the Boat like stuffing box and Ice boxes draining into the bilge area (part of a list of PO setup bad ideas) I am to the point where the only water that gets in the Boat if from cleaning my knot meter, I temporarily close off the limber hole to keep it in that compartment and some sneaks in through the keel stepped mast and is unavoidable. To further complicate drying the bilge there are limber holes all over the stringer grid and its very difficult to get all the water no matter what the method.
Although I don't have the short cycle issue others do I don't want water down there all the time so I test the pumps regularly by introducing water using a garden hose normally and then shop vac it dry. I will be doing other things like experimenting with rising limber holes on various compartments.
On previous boats with enough bilge I would just wash everything down regularly to keep trash from washing into the pump sump, a 8-10" sump is all I want.
Everyone needs one of those shop vac 5 gallon bucket toppers from Home depot they are only $20 and you use the bucket for other things when its not a vacuum.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome