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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Islander > I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement
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Thread: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
1 Day Ago 11:27 AM
christian.hess
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

downeast thats what I did on my 36, temporary but with wood trim and some fairing the white celing paint and white sides brightened my interior 1000%

even in the tropics my old interior was damp, old and very dark with all the brown vynil and brown dark plywood veneer on the sides
1 Day Ago 06:34 AM
downeast450
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

The headliner on our I-28 IS coming down this storage season. After playing with leaks that are controlled by covering the companionway hatch with a tarp, I have concluded the inside "cover/base" of the sliding hatch cover's "drawer" is leaking into the boat under the headliner. That part was fiberglassed to an inverted deck molding. It seems to be leaking along its starboard side. Years of uncovered storage with ice forming where ever water could sit. It needs to be sealed and re engineered to drain properly. Then insulate and replace the headliner! Ugh? A lot of time invested in this old boat. Yup! I don't mind investing some of my "retirement time" working on the little craft I enjoy. I like being thoroughly familiar with it. There probably is a point of diminishing returns on money spent. Time, not so much. After I repair the leak I might just paint the ceilings with white two part epoxy as a first step. There are a couple of other little projects that require access to the inside fiberglass surface.

Down
6 Days Ago 02:22 PM
510datsun
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Sorry for taking so long to post a reply. I have almost finished my headliner replacement in the saloon area. I use a matt finished FRP and mahogany battens to cover the seams. I used 3/4" blocks bonded to the fiberglass in locations as needed for screws in the battens, and to space the FRP off the hull to account for hardware and electrical. Seams for the FRP can also be covered with plastic strips made for the FRP.
The FRP comes in several colors and finishes. I choose matt white, but the most popular finish is the ice white, a textured rough finish.
Here is a link to Home Depot that has the FRP Ice finish. I had to special order the Matt finish from my local hardware and lumber store.
4 ft. x 8 ft. White .090 FRP Wall Board-MFTF12IXA480009600 at The Home Depot

I will try to get some pictures posted up in the next week or so. I also used mahogany 3/4 X 1/8 strips with rounded corners to cover the 3/4 welting used on the original liner. I use a mahogany 1 1/2 X 3/16 X 8' strips for my battens.

Summation of the project
If I had to do it all over again, I would just remove the headliner, put a quick sand job on the fiberglass, and paint it matt white. Yes you can see the hardware, and may have to put a few electrical ties to secure the wiring, but I think it would be an easier way to go. After all, I have a 1971 boat, and its only worth so much.
Making patterns, placing the blocks, etc, took loads of time, effort, and two people for most of the project. The sand and paint is a once person job for the most part.

Cons to sanding and painting, is the mess, using the correct equipment for sanding the fiberglass. I rather suit up, wear a hat, respirator, and vacuum sander, then have to do all of the measuring, cutting, and bonding blocks.

Pros of FRP headliner it looks better then sanding and painting. So, it's your call on how much work you want to spend on the headliner.

Hope this helped you
I'll be back soon with pics of my FRP headliner.
09-29-2014 08:02 PM
gknott
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Sorry, but my nefarious plan was to encourage all those other guys to do their headliners first and then I'd piggyback on their efforts. They must have seen right through me because I never heard back from anyone. So my headliner looks about the same as it did last year - a saggy, rust-stained monument to my lack of ambition. One good thing is that as the staples fail and the zippers disintegrate, access to the underside of the deck fittings gets easier and easier. But if you ever decide to replace your headliner please post the pictures. soto voce Heh Heh. Another one on the line!.
09-29-2014 09:32 AM
marybryant
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Hello
Did you have success with your headliner replacement?

I read the thread here with interest and wondered how it worked out for you. I have a Freedom 30 which we have been sailing for 2 years without a headliner while we try to figure out how to retain good access to hardware and wiring while still beautifying interior of cabin roof. Condensation, fortunately, is not one of our problems.
03-31-2013 12:46 PM
downeast450
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by 510datsun View Post
downeast450,
thanks for the links on the spray on foam, may check in to using it on the boat. I have seen a spray on rubberized product used for car undercoating, an Eastwood Auto Supply product, don't know if it would work to insulate, but easy to spray on. The product can be painted, comes in black, and adheres to fiberglass. I was thinking the rubberized coating would be enough to provide a thermal barrier to prevent the condensation on the hull. The product can be sprayed or comes in a brush on form too. The product would be easy to control where you want to apply the finish. You could paint it too.

What do you think?
An interesting solution. I am not sure how the thermal properties compare. I will go with the marine 2 part foam. A small kit will do the ceilings and the hull where appropriate. Down to the wl. I am looking for improved heating, too. The ice box will also get some around its outside.

Rubberized Undercoating

gknott,
Quote:
Originally Posted by 510datsun View Post
downeast450,
Thanks, I really do love the Islander 28 inside and out! It's a good thing too, cause I'm putting in lots of hours fixing problems inherited from years of neglect by previous owners.
I know what you mean. I am in the same boat!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 510datsun View Post
downeast450,
Above the stove is an old small florescent light, I actually like the light, it's not an obnoxious as most florescent lights, it was there when I purchased the boat.
No light like that in mine.

Down
03-30-2013 01:52 AM
510datsun
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

downeast450,
thanks for the links on the spray on foam, may check in to using it on the boat. I have seen a spray on rubberized product used for car undercoating, an Eastwood Auto Supply product, don't know if it would work to insulate, but easy to spray on. The product can be painted, comes in black, and adheres to fiberglass. I was thinking the rubberized coating would be enough to provide a thermal barrier to prevent the condensation on the hull. The product can be sprayed or comes in a brush on form too. The product would be easy to control where you want to apply the finish. You could paint it too.

What do you think?

Rubberized Undercoating

gknott,

Thanks, I really do love the Islander 28 inside and out! It's a good thing too, cause I'm putting in lots of hours fixing problems inherited from years of neglect by previous owners. Above the stove is an old small florescent light, I actually like the light, it's not an obnoxious as most florescent lights, it was there when I purchased the boat.
03-28-2013 08:39 AM
downeast450
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by gknott View Post
Downeast, now you've got my attention! First, because unlike that lucky California dog 510, I'll bet Downeasters maintain a working relationship with condensation. Second, because anyone who regards their time working on a boat as beyond value (some would say "worthless") is a kindred soul, and third because it sounds like you know about something I need. What is "a sprayable 2-part marine foam kit"? Is it an improvement over foam-in-a-can or "foam-in your-hair" which is usually more accurate?

Your proposal for the cabin ceiling sounds beautiful although I hate painting mahogany because its so pretty. However, I understand the need for a brighter interior. What about tranverse varnished mahogany 1" trim strips every 3' or so to break up the strong longitudinal lines you would introduce? I saw a similar strip treatment for the 1/4 berth and vee-berth using varnished Western red cedar on the sides and top and it was gorgeous. Only two other questions which I think can be solved. What will you see between the 1/4" gaps and what about the strongly curved vinyl covered sections in the aft corners of the cabin trunk? Any thoughts on what to do about the vinyl covered partial bulkhead holding the port chainplates?
Here is a link to one of the available foam kits. If you decide to do this please take safety precautions and wear a hooded disposable Tyvec coverall or you will have foam in your hair. Mask everything close by, carefully. Preparation is very important. Rehearse the paths you will follow. The kits come with a "gun" that mixes the two parts in a disposable, removable nozzle. The right kit will include several tips so you can start and stop several times as you use up the product. One tip for the V birth area, one for the 1/4 birth and perhaps two stages in the main cabin....Use a slow foam for maximum depth precision.

I will paint the finished foam surface white. It hardens to a density that you can barely put a dent in with your finger so under and between the wood strips it will look fine. I am thinking I will epoxy short sections of pvc pipe over the fasteners, mask their ends and push a dry (removable) foam plug into each one before fastening the wood strips.

Painting the mahogany? I get it. I will "wash it" with a thinned 2 part epoxy. I don't need any more varnish. The mahogany is available and an appropriate wood. I would not want a dark ceiling in this little space. A clear urethane on the mahogany would be too dark. The transverse trim strips might work. I need to think about that. I like it.

The partial bulkhead gets faired and painted white. The curved aft corners will probably get epoxied and painted white but I will figure out how that gets done when the time comes. It is a fun detail.

Handi Foam SR Two-Component Poured-In-Place Foam

Down
03-27-2013 06:44 PM
gknott
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Nice boat! What year? My vinyl is stretched much tighter over the curved sections and I have different vinyl trim...... Off topic - what are those lights over the same Origo stove I have?
03-27-2013 05:39 PM
510datsun
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

gknott, I would think the easiest method, and one I plan to use, is to attach 1/4 to 3/4 Styrofoam pieces cut out around all visible hardware. I know I'm lucky living were condensation is minimal compared to other areas, but any leads to mildew, and I don't want that. So, I to will take the precautions to insulate to combat the condensation issue.

I will then put up the FRP with mahogany batons running port to starboard, attached with screws to 3/4 plywood attached using polyurethane, using wood buttons to plug the screw holes in the batons.

For the odd shaped sections, above the Galley and 1/4 birth, use crown molding the size large enough to across the protruding portion to intersect to a piece of 1/4 mahogany plywood cut to to shape of the triangular section. If i can't find a crown molding piece, I will cut a of mahogany, ripped on a table saw at the necessary angles needed. Then put some 1/4 round and corner trim mahogany to cover the intersecting locations. I have photo below showing the approximate area in black. The picture is before I removed the headliner.


As I said before, I will post up my project once I have done the modifications.

Good Luck if you do yours first!
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