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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Islander > I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement
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Thread: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
4 Weeks Ago 07:02 PM
gknott
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Sorry, but my nefarious plan was to encourage all those other guys to do their headliners first and then I'd piggyback on their efforts. They must have seen right through me because I never heard back from anyone. So my headliner looks about the same as it did last year - a saggy, rust-stained monument to my lack of ambition. One good thing is that as the staples fail and the zippers disintegrate, access to the underside of the deck fittings gets easier and easier. But if you ever decide to replace your headliner please post the pictures. soto voce Heh Heh. Another one on the line!.
4 Weeks Ago 08:32 AM
marybryant
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Hello
Did you have success with your headliner replacement?

I read the thread here with interest and wondered how it worked out for you. I have a Freedom 30 which we have been sailing for 2 years without a headliner while we try to figure out how to retain good access to hardware and wiring while still beautifying interior of cabin roof. Condensation, fortunately, is not one of our problems.
03-31-2013 11:46 AM
downeast450
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by 510datsun View Post
downeast450,
thanks for the links on the spray on foam, may check in to using it on the boat. I have seen a spray on rubberized product used for car undercoating, an Eastwood Auto Supply product, don't know if it would work to insulate, but easy to spray on. The product can be painted, comes in black, and adheres to fiberglass. I was thinking the rubberized coating would be enough to provide a thermal barrier to prevent the condensation on the hull. The product can be sprayed or comes in a brush on form too. The product would be easy to control where you want to apply the finish. You could paint it too.

What do you think?
An interesting solution. I am not sure how the thermal properties compare. I will go with the marine 2 part foam. A small kit will do the ceilings and the hull where appropriate. Down to the wl. I am looking for improved heating, too. The ice box will also get some around its outside.

Rubberized Undercoating

gknott,
Quote:
Originally Posted by 510datsun View Post
downeast450,
Thanks, I really do love the Islander 28 inside and out! It's a good thing too, cause I'm putting in lots of hours fixing problems inherited from years of neglect by previous owners.
I know what you mean. I am in the same boat!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 510datsun View Post
downeast450,
Above the stove is an old small florescent light, I actually like the light, it's not an obnoxious as most florescent lights, it was there when I purchased the boat.
No light like that in mine.

Down
03-30-2013 12:52 AM
510datsun
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

downeast450,
thanks for the links on the spray on foam, may check in to using it on the boat. I have seen a spray on rubberized product used for car undercoating, an Eastwood Auto Supply product, don't know if it would work to insulate, but easy to spray on. The product can be painted, comes in black, and adheres to fiberglass. I was thinking the rubberized coating would be enough to provide a thermal barrier to prevent the condensation on the hull. The product can be sprayed or comes in a brush on form too. The product would be easy to control where you want to apply the finish. You could paint it too.

What do you think?

Rubberized Undercoating

gknott,

Thanks, I really do love the Islander 28 inside and out! It's a good thing too, cause I'm putting in lots of hours fixing problems inherited from years of neglect by previous owners. Above the stove is an old small florescent light, I actually like the light, it's not an obnoxious as most florescent lights, it was there when I purchased the boat.
03-28-2013 07:39 AM
downeast450
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by gknott View Post
Downeast, now you've got my attention! First, because unlike that lucky California dog 510, I'll bet Downeasters maintain a working relationship with condensation. Second, because anyone who regards their time working on a boat as beyond value (some would say "worthless") is a kindred soul, and third because it sounds like you know about something I need. What is "a sprayable 2-part marine foam kit"? Is it an improvement over foam-in-a-can or "foam-in your-hair" which is usually more accurate?

Your proposal for the cabin ceiling sounds beautiful although I hate painting mahogany because its so pretty. However, I understand the need for a brighter interior. What about tranverse varnished mahogany 1" trim strips every 3' or so to break up the strong longitudinal lines you would introduce? I saw a similar strip treatment for the 1/4 berth and vee-berth using varnished Western red cedar on the sides and top and it was gorgeous. Only two other questions which I think can be solved. What will you see between the 1/4" gaps and what about the strongly curved vinyl covered sections in the aft corners of the cabin trunk? Any thoughts on what to do about the vinyl covered partial bulkhead holding the port chainplates?
Here is a link to one of the available foam kits. If you decide to do this please take safety precautions and wear a hooded disposable Tyvec coverall or you will have foam in your hair. Mask everything close by, carefully. Preparation is very important. Rehearse the paths you will follow. The kits come with a "gun" that mixes the two parts in a disposable, removable nozzle. The right kit will include several tips so you can start and stop several times as you use up the product. One tip for the V birth area, one for the 1/4 birth and perhaps two stages in the main cabin....Use a slow foam for maximum depth precision.

I will paint the finished foam surface white. It hardens to a density that you can barely put a dent in with your finger so under and between the wood strips it will look fine. I am thinking I will epoxy short sections of pvc pipe over the fasteners, mask their ends and push a dry (removable) foam plug into each one before fastening the wood strips.

Painting the mahogany? I get it. I will "wash it" with a thinned 2 part epoxy. I don't need any more varnish. The mahogany is available and an appropriate wood. I would not want a dark ceiling in this little space. A clear urethane on the mahogany would be too dark. The transverse trim strips might work. I need to think about that. I like it.

The partial bulkhead gets faired and painted white. The curved aft corners will probably get epoxied and painted white but I will figure out how that gets done when the time comes. It is a fun detail.

Handi Foam SR Two-Component Poured-In-Place Foam

Down
03-27-2013 05:44 PM
gknott
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Nice boat! What year? My vinyl is stretched much tighter over the curved sections and I have different vinyl trim...... Off topic - what are those lights over the same Origo stove I have?
03-27-2013 04:39 PM
510datsun
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

gknott, I would think the easiest method, and one I plan to use, is to attach 1/4 to 3/4 Styrofoam pieces cut out around all visible hardware. I know I'm lucky living were condensation is minimal compared to other areas, but any leads to mildew, and I don't want that. So, I to will take the precautions to insulate to combat the condensation issue.

I will then put up the FRP with mahogany batons running port to starboard, attached with screws to 3/4 plywood attached using polyurethane, using wood buttons to plug the screw holes in the batons.

For the odd shaped sections, above the Galley and 1/4 birth, use crown molding the size large enough to across the protruding portion to intersect to a piece of 1/4 mahogany plywood cut to to shape of the triangular section. If i can't find a crown molding piece, I will cut a of mahogany, ripped on a table saw at the necessary angles needed. Then put some 1/4 round and corner trim mahogany to cover the intersecting locations. I have photo below showing the approximate area in black. The picture is before I removed the headliner.


As I said before, I will post up my project once I have done the modifications.

Good Luck if you do yours first!
03-27-2013 03:32 PM
gknott
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Downeast, now you've got my attention! First, because unlike that lucky California dog 510, I'll bet Downeasters maintain a working relationship with condensation. Second, because anyone who regards their time working on a boat as beyond value (some would say "worthless") is a kindred soul, and third because it sounds like you know about something I need. What is "a sprayable 2-part marine foam kit"? Is it an improvement over foam-in-a-can or "foam-in your-hair" which is usually more accurate?

Your proposal for the cabin ceiling sounds beautiful although I hate painting mahogany because its so pretty. However, I understand the need for a brighter interior. What about tranverse varnished mahogany 1" trim strips every 3' or so to break up the strong longitudinal lines you would introduce? I saw a similar strip treatment for the 1/4 berth and vee-berth using varnished Western red cedar on the sides and top and it was gorgeous. Only two other questions which I think can be solved. What will you see between the 1/4" gaps and what about the strongly curved vinyl covered sections in the aft corners of the cabin trunk? Any thoughts on what to do about the vinyl covered partial bulkhead holding the port chainplates?
03-26-2013 12:47 PM
downeast450
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

I have "ignored" the poor condition of the vinyl liners in my 1977 I-28. There are two useless zippers. Perhaps 3. The staples are all rusted. It is not fresh and clean..... I have pulled it down in the quarter birth and in the space between the stbd chain plate and the "chart table" Ha! Next it will probably need to be removed for access in the V birth. It is time to do something.

Access to fasteners is important. I want to install a winch and have concerns about the integrity of the joint between the sliding hatch's enclosure and the deck. I will be replacing the glazing too.

I do have quite a lot of experience with fg, wood and paint.

I don't have lots of money to spend but when I tackle a job like this, the finished product is the goal and the amount of time I know it will take is part of the real cost. The percentage of the total cost (my labor included) that the materials will cost out of pocket is how I try to plan my budget. If it is worth my time and I want it done right I will spend some money on the right materials.

I have a supply of lumber that is valuable but I don't want to leave it behind and I like working with nice wood. No cost!
I have all the tools. No cost!
I have plenty of 2 part epoxy paint and the fg materials to repair a leaking hatch enclosure. No cost!
I have the time and enjoy working on the boat. No cost!

I am building up to rationalizing spending some money for a sprayable 2-part marine foam kit. I have used them and they are a great way to insulate a hull.

I am considering finishing the ceiling with longitudinal strips of mahogany, painted white, spaced 1/4" apart, fastened to wood "stringers" running athwart ship.

The same ceilings in the V birth and the 1/4 birth, both the overhead and the sides.

Strip the interior, repair the hatch enclosure, epoxy stringers in place (West), mask them, block out fastener spaces somehow or plan to dig them out to make them accessible, and foam, cut the foam level with stringers and paint it, fasten pre painted mahogany strips to stringers.

2" wide strips? 1" thick stringers?

What do you think?

Down
03-26-2013 11:41 AM
gknott
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

I stand corrected on the material. You are also correct that the 1/4" open cell foam on the back of my existing vinyl would saturate every winter and take most of the summer to dry out. It never dripped but it sure rotted out the seams and metal zipper pulls. Thus my choice of breathable fabric. I'm intrigued by the idea of a spray-on insulation rather than glued-on chunks of styrofoam. Maybe with some practice I can get a fairly consistent thickness but foam-in-a-can and I are not good friends when it comes to fine work. Any product or application suggestions?
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