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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-15-2013 07:30 PM
Re: pintle/gudgeon supplier?

Originally Posted by asdf38 View Post
How hard was it to remove the handrails? I assume they're through bolted all the way through to the interior rails right? How well were things sealed up there?

How long did the paint job take overall? My paint job wasn't done great to begin with by the P.O. (didn't remove deck hardware) and is probably 5-8 years old by now

I'm also quoting a new mainsail and will probably just pull the trigger on that
The hand rails on my boat(built in 1979) are screwed down, not thru bolted. I was able to remove the exterior rails without touch or messing with the interior rails.
The teak rail is bent to shape but not all the way. Removing by myself wasn't an issue but I definitely needed an extra set of hands for re-install.
Originally the rails were sealed up with some type of sealant, I filled the screw holes with thickened epoxy then redrilled as well as using butyl to help seal things up.

The paint job, putting aside prep, was a 4 plus hours per coat. 2 primer, 4 coats of Brightside and 3 coats of non-skid topsides. The hours includes sanding/cleaning/painting between coats, my father helped so that was 4 hours with two bodies. The bigger problem is finding a weather window. Prep took weeks as I was repairing deck rot and dozens+ cracks in the gel coat. One of the many mistakes I made was not to remove the rubrail, choosing to tape it off instead. next time there won't be a piece of "hardware" left on the boat.

Grudgeons, I haven't moved the upper set. For now I still have the orginal setup. When I do add a third one I will leave the original two in place and add the third as high up as possible. I would be interesting to hear about your experience with getting the hardware from the source, Jeremy Rogers. I didn't think to contact him.

New mainsail. I took over ownership of the boat, from my father, about 3 years ago. At the time the mainsail was original and shot, should have been replaced 5 years previous. First order of business for me was to order a new mainsail. I wanted to go local, they have a great rep and make a quailty product. I ended up ordering from Lee sails, an online setup. I am happy with what I got, for a price that was approx 6 - 800.00$ cheaper than local. Looking back I wonder if I should have bought locally, but at the time I had multiple bills to pay, new car(paid cash) marina bill, a new barrier coat was in order etc, so I couldn't justify the difference in price. With that said a mainsail is something a person buys once every 15 - 20 years so why not pay the extra to get a top quality product?
Point being if you are considering buying online I can take some pic's of the mainsail and post them, as well as some thoughts on the experience, let me know.

Good to see other options grudgeon wise, Catalina and Port Townsend Foundary.
thanks for posting them.

04-15-2013 02:50 PM
Re: pintle/gudgeon supplier?

Port Townsend Foundary
04-14-2013 11:10 PM
Alex W
Re: pintle/gudgeon supplier?

Catalina Direct has good pintles and gudgeons that are designed for the Catalina 25 and that would likely work for you. They are a lot stronger than the original:
Catalina Direct: Pintle Short 1/2" for Standard Rudder
Catalina Direct: Gudgeon 1/2" Retrofit Three Bolt Hole C-22, C-22 Sport, C-25,CP-22, C-250

They fit both their 1.5" and 2" wide rudders, so they should work for a 1.75" wide rudder too.

I can't compare them to the Sea Sure fittings, but the pin size is 80-100% larger, which isn't nothing. The original ones on these boats weren't very good, but the replacement design is a lot more robust.
04-14-2013 10:10 PM
Re: pintle/gudgeon supplier?

That looks fantastic John,

I'm jealous of the fact that you had so much time - on the other hand I did sail last year .

That looks like a good system with the bilge pump. Currently I have just a non-automatic electric pump that's mounted up above with a hose going down. Yep the bilge is surprisingly deep. Last winter I got the wet dry vac hose down there and sucked out 30 years worth of dropped hardware.

How hard was it to remove the handrails? I assume they're through bolted all the way through to the interior rails right? How well were things sealed up there?

How long did the paint job take overall? My paint job wasn't done great to begin with by the P.O. (didn't remove deck hardware) and is probably 5-8 years old by now

So as for my pintle and gudgeons the yard, a one man operation, had originally suggested a delrin shim exactly as you did but changed his mind after closer inspection. I'm willing to trust him on that. So we're getting pintles and gudgeons from Jeremy Rogers in England, the original Contessa builder whose back up and running doing refurbs, building Contessa 32's and supplying old 26 parts (although not everything matches between the british and canadian versions).

I'll be going to the boat and talking to the yard tomorrow about the rudder and I think I'll just put in the 3rd (which also means moving the upper one as I assume you did). What made you decide to do it? I considered it because I'd seen it suggested online and I know J.J. Taylor added the 3rd in the 80's when they did their minor redesign.

My other main project this year is a total replacement of the head which I'll be doing myself and either a repitch of my 2-blade prop (hopefully) or perhaps a new 3 blade. I know the yanmar should net me more than 3.5 knots. I'm also quoting a new mainsail and will probably just pull the trigger on that (I'm avoiding the headsail because I don't want to commit hank-on or consider roller furling yet. Personally I love the hank-on simplicity right now)

Anyway, good to hear from you. I'll post back about my pintle gudgeon experience when it's over.
04-14-2013 08:45 PM
Re: pintle/gudgeon supplier?


Hope all is well.

I did find/buy a rudder mounted pintle that will work, from west marine;
SEA SURE Rudder Fittings at West Marine
Product # 11019809

It is wider than the rudder but I should be able to shim it up easily enough.

For the lower existing gudgeon I turned up a shim out of delron. I have a hobby metal lathe in the basement, so no big deal for me.
For the upper gudgeon, two things;
1) I removed the existing one from the boat last fall and drilled out the hole, 1/16'th larger than original. This changed the hole from being oval shaped back to round. I then turned up a delron shim to make up the difference. The rudder has been mounted on the boat and all looks good.
2) My brother in-law has a milling machine so I got my hands on a block of bronze; he is in the process of milling me a new gudgeon to replace the upper one. I will then use the existing/original gudgeon as part of install of the third set. I suspect I won't get to this until the fall; launch date is 3 weekends away.

I plan on placing the 3'rd set as high up as possible, just below the teak block that makes up the rudder head.

pm sent about your gudgeon problems.

As to other projects, I am just about ready to launch, before I do I am re-installing hardware after fixing my deck rot/deck repainting. Including new winches to replace the original jib and mail sail halyard winches, which were always too small for my liking. As well I am installing a bilge pump and have a final coat of anti-fouling to add to the boat after dealing with my blister issue, some pics just because I can

My L bracket to install my bilge pump. It will be bolted to another L bracket epoxied to the sub bilge floor(bad terminology I know), directly behind the battery. I struggled to come up with a way to "bolt down" the bilge pump to the bilge floor, given I can't reach it by hand. Or with a tool in hand, it is too deep. The L bracket in the pic above is coated in 4 layers of epoxy before painting so it should be water proof and it allows me to remove the pump if needed.

Some blister repair photo's

The hull sealed with epoxy after moisture readings looked good.

The final coat of Interlux 2000

First coat of anti-fouling.

Some deck painting pics;

The deck painting was a great experience, far from perfect but good enough. If/when I do it again I will be working with the boat tarped/sheltered from the sun. The paint, Interlux brightsides, is great but it doesn't like direct sun exposure. I took my cockpit locker hatches home over the winter. The wet wood core was replaced and then the hatches were re-painted. The paint flowed much better in my basement, without sun exposure, good enough that it looks sprayed on. The deck on the boat has an orange peel look to it, live and learn... It looks great when walking around the deck, crawling on all fours it looks more amateur than professional.

Having missed last season, luanch date can't come soon enough. I really like working on boats but not as much as I like sailing them.

04-11-2013 04:11 PM
re: pintle/gudgeon supplier?

Johnny did you go through with that?

I've got play on mine and I'm going down the path of replacing them both. Obviously now would be the time to evaluate adding a 3rd. Where exactly would the 3rd go? Centered, or just above the waterline?

How are all your other projects coming?
08-13-2012 08:10 AM
re: pintle/gudgeon supplier?

These guys maybe?
08-13-2012 07:54 AM
Re: pintle grudeon supplier?


Thanks for the link, I'll take a look. I measured with a caliper, 1.171 inches.

08-12-2012 10:47 PM
Re: Pintle and Gudgeon supplier?

My first thought was to check Defender. Would any of these work for you?

BTW, how carefully did you measure the rudder thickness? Is it truly 44 mm at the point where the third gudgeon would be mounted, or is it 40?

08-12-2012 07:40 PM
pintle/gudgeon supplier?

I have contessa 26 that I want to add a 3'rd pintle/gudgeon set to. The rudder is 1 3/4 inches wide. Can anyone point me to an online resource for pintle/gudgeon sets that meet my requirements? I have found a couple that have 1 3/4 inch gudgeon's that mount to the rudder but I would prefer to mount the pintle to the rudder, gudgeon to transom(just because that is how the current setup works)


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