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getting a Tartan 34C ready for offshore trip

17K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  T34C 
#1 ·
I am planning a transatlantic trip from NY to Gibraltar next year in June, followed by some cruising in the Med, and wanted to get some feedback on getting my boat, a 1977 Tartan 34C, in shape for that. Comments tailored to this specific boat are especially appreciated, as well as general opinion on their seaworthiness, etc.

When I bought the boat 1 1/2 years ago she was only used for coastal sailing. I took her down to the Bahamas over the winter and before that i put in all new bronze seacocks, replaced running and standing rigging. Noteworthy equipment that I added or existed already includes AIS receiver, sat phone, EPRIB, roller furler (140% genoa) and ATN Gale sail (storm jib) and a ridiculously over-sized Manson Supreme anchor on 63' of 3/8 chain and 200' of rode. The engine is a party rebuilt Atomic 4 which has been running very smoothly since I had the boat. I actually like the engine a lot and trust it. Lots of spare parts and tools on board.
2 reefs in the main. Bimini, no dodger. 2 x 80 amp-hour wet cells with a 70 amp alternator and regulator. A Raymarine X5 wheel pilot. 8' Walker Bay sailing dinghy with tubes, 4hp outboard. Whisker pole. New VHF and masthead antenna, handheld GPS, OpenCPN with international charts. No radar. No solar panels and wind generator.

I am thinking about adding a removable forestay and recut the ATN gale sail for it ($$, is this necessary?). To generate power I thought about adding 2x 120 Watt solar panels. Getting a dodger perhaps.
Selfsteering: below-deck unit or a used windvane?

I want to keep the cost down but also have a seaworthy boat fit for the trip. Comments appreciated!
 
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#3 ·
Jeez! Do you have any room left for say, tools, food, water? Just kidding!
AFA the spare parts for the engine I would say get them vacuum packed w/ a silica gel dessicate inside to keep them dry and free of rust/corrosion. You don't want to reach for your spare and pull out a lump of rust.
I presume you have jacklines, if not, consider making them out of Amsteel (Spectra) instead of webbing.
 
#5 ·
A few thoughts from your list. I will think in terms of my previous boat, a Niagara 35, since it is similar to your boat. I like the idea of an inner stay since I am just not sure about the idea of hooking up the Gale Sail in the conditions where you would need it. Financially it might make more sense to sell your Gale Sail and buy a used storm jib from someone like Bacon. I would look for a largish storm jib since you could use it as a staysail in the heavy conditions you are much more likely to get rather than storm conditions

Some other things I would want, in order, until the money runs out.
- more battery capacity and solar, with an electric pilot you will use a lot of juice; what is your fuel capacity? A gas engine is not as efficient as diesel
- backup autopilot - you don't want to find out what handsteering is like for two weeks
- more rode and chain although from what I have heard anchoring opportunities are not great in much of the Med
- dodger
 
#6 ·
From James suggestions, we have both and in 30,000 miles have used neither. Given a choice it would be a Jordan drogue. You can make your own to keep cost down.
 
#10 ·
Solar panels: I assume that you have calculated your input requirement and have determined that 2 X 120 Watt will do the job. You will have your fridge running all the time, as well as your instruments (especially since you plan to have an autopilot).... Will you be listening to music much of the time and will that be on the ship's battery system, too? While 240 Watt may seem like a lot, if the panels are rated 17V, feeding into your 12V system, you will get only 12/17 or 70% of the rated input. Reduce that for "manufacturers optismism", and actual sun power hitting it, and you quickly reduce the juice... especially if you end up on a starboard tack going east, when the sun angle may not be optimal.

I would also be more comfortable with more chain than you have so far.

Good luck with your preparations and the trip itself!
 
#11 ·
I am a big fan of vane steering. We have a Monitor and it has been great. The only problem is if you decide you want davits at some point.
 
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#14 ·
Hi Tom,
Love the T34C. It is the bigger brother of my T27.

You sound as if you are quite on top of your re-fit for going trans-Atlantic. The only system I'd be a little concerned about on a boat of that age are the chain plates.

There is a member here who was attempting a trans-At with his wife on a 50+' Gulfstar and I believe it was a chain plate failure in boisterous conditions that eventually forced them to abandon the boat and call for rescue; which nearly killed him. Perhaps you read doug sabbag's posts on the subject? It is quite a long thread.
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gener...-related/77054-s-v-triumph-lost-atlantic.html

What boat yard are you using for your T34C?

Caleb
also in NYC
 
#16 ·
Amazing story! And so valuable to hear directly from the captain.
I pulled the chainplates last year and they looked ok to my eyes, no rust, just a bit of pitting at the location where they go through the deck. I had replaced all the chainplate screws. Now I'll also replace the plates themselves. In the story above they failed in less than 20 knots, so probably the SS got brittle over time?

I keep my boat in Port Washington on a mooring. How about you?
 
#19 ·
Amazing story! And so valuable to hear directly from the captain.
I pulled the chainplates last year and they looked ok to my eyes, no rust, just a bit of pitting at the location where they go through the deck. I had replaced all the chainplate screws. Now I'll also replace the plates themselves. In the story above they failed in less than 20 knots, so probably the SS got brittle over time?

I keep my boat in Port Washington on a mooring. How about you?
Tom,

Yes, the doug sabbag story was pretty sobering. The stresses on a boat on the ocean can be pretty formidable. Good call to replace them with new. Chain plates suffer from cyclic loading that will eventually make them part or break. New ones should have a longer life under stress.

We kept my boat at Steppingstone "marina" for a season or two. My boat is now up the Hudson at Nyack. I grew up in Sea Cliff so I know Port Washington pretty well.

Are you using the yard at PWYC for your re-fit operations? They seem to allow some diy activities there. I'd enjoy dropping by to meet you & see your T34C around late June/early July.
 
#18 ·
+10

The ISAF rules for Category 1 make a great checklist for potential offshore sailors. You are unlikely to have a boat that meets all the requirements (who want to strip vinyl coating off lifelines), but it have have some ideas that might be novel to you.
 
#20 ·
Would be great to meet up in PW! I am also planning a short trip up the Hudson at some point this summer.
My boat is currently in FL but I am planning to bring it back up in May. Yes, I use Manhasset Bay Shipyard next to the Yacht Club for hauling. They allow DIY.

My email is tominny (-at-) (-gm-) (-ail-) . (-c o m-)
 
#22 ·
What else are you after? I did ask an question which did not get answered. I do know that it generates controversy.
 
#23 ·
There are several reason why I'd prefer to do it solo. Preparation and execution is between me and the boat. Looking for another crew member adds a whole new complexity to it, including logistical, interpersonal and psychological. I've been on a two-handed trip where these three clashed and in retrospect it would have been more harmonious to have done it solo.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not a hermit or particularly antisocial. Both solo and with crew has its own set of challenges and right now the challenges of a solo trip seem more attractive. Having said that I am doing the Around Long Island Race with a friend who would be a good candidate for crew. We'll see how it goes.

I've read a ton of books and reports about preparing a boat for offshore voyaging. After a while it repeats. With this post I am particularly hoping to get feedback on the vessel and her offshore seaworthiness, and hopefully some boat-specific ideas about refitting. I am planning to post this question to the T34C association at a later point.
So, does anybody have experience with a Tartan 34C or any thoughts on their weaknesses/strengths?

Thanks!
 
#24 ·
Tominny

Pay close attention to ColRegs before considering solo sailing.

Maintaining a watch at all times by all means is unambiguous.

Did you check out the ISAF documents?
 
#26 ·
And some get run down: Jessica Watson, Kai Granholm
 
#28 ·
Alright then. Have you read the ISAF regulations? They are a great starting point for any boat.

But it is not just the equipment that will save your butt when everything goes sideways.

BTW - you mentioned solo sailing. I enjoy solo sailing in coastal waters.
 
#29 ·
A couple things I would consider that I haven't seen mentioned. The boat was not built to current standards and has a number of vulnerabilities that could lead to down flooding and sinking in case of a knockdown or getting pooped by a wave.

Both the cockpit lockers on the T34C are open to the main cabin and could lead to down flooding in an emergency. I would build and glass in bulkheads at the aft end of the quarter berth and around the starboard locker. Same thing goes for the ice hatch in the cockpit. It needs to be either removed (not the most practical), or sealed with the hatch reinforced and add a locking latch. I would be concerned about the bilge blower vent pipe for the same reason, but not sure what the best fix for that would be. The chain locker forward also needs to be sealed and a thru hull drain added.
 
#30 ·
<Both the cockpit lockers on the T34C are open to the main cabin and could <lead to down flooding in an emergency. I would build and glass in bulkheads at <the aft end of the quarter berth and around the starboard locker. Same thing <goes for the ice hatch in the cockpit. It needs to be either removed (not the <most practical), or sealed with the hatch reinforced and add a locking latch. I <would be concerned about the bilge blower vent pipe for the same reason, but <not sure what the best fix for that would be. The chain locker forward also < needs to be sealed and a thru hull drain added.

Yes, That is very true. I added high-profile locking latches to the ice-box hatch, starboard locker hatch and lazarette hatch. One on each. Do you think that will suffice? Fiberglassing whole bulkheads is a major operation. My thinking is that what makes them open in an inversion is the weight of the locker content, and if the hatch can withstand that there should be no problem. Water pressure and wave action should not be an issue here, but I might be wrong. So no heavy chain and anchors in these places. Comments appreciated.

Regarding the bow chain locker, I experimented with both a wooden plug and building foam to seal the hawse pipe. Both seemed to work. Will that be sufficient or is a thru-hull really needed?
 
#31 ·
I think closing up the lockers with bulkheads would be ideal. Making sure they have heavy duty latches and hinges that lock would be a fall back position that would probably suffice.

I'm guessing you have have the vent on the fore deck just aft of the hawse pipe that would also be a concern for down flooding. If you seal it and can fabricate a semi permanent plug for the hawse you would probably be ok.

Just keep in mind that these are vulnerable points in the event of a knockdown, and secure them accordingly.
 
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