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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Splicing 3-strand line to double braid
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Thread: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-15-2013 09:42 PM
Zanshin
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid

The cleats, all 6 of them, take over half the boat weight apiece (the boat, fully loaded, weighs 60,000 lbs) . They are beautiful forged stainless and the horns are long enough for the large line, just not high enough off the deck and replacing them with cleats that have more vertical clearance is going to cost a whole heck of a lot more than getting different line so I think I won't be pursuing the cleat option.
05-15-2013 08:13 PM
pdqaltair
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid

Quote:
Originally Posted by miatapaul View Post
That was my other thought, but it sounds like it would mean bigger chocks as well. And of course big backing plates.
Yup.
05-15-2013 07:44 PM
miatapaul
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdqaltair View Post
Bigger cleats, if the line size is correct.

Sorry, but many makers have small cleat sickness.
That was my other thought, but it sounds like it would mean bigger chocks as well. And of course big backing plates.
05-15-2013 06:45 PM
pdqaltair
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zanshin View Post
.... Unfortunately, my two forward cleats are just a bit too small for these lines. I would like to splice on a section of smaller diameter, but stronger, of double braid to each end in order to make it possible to easily use my cleats.
Bigger cleats, if the line size is correct.

Sorry, but many makers have small cleat sickness.
05-15-2013 04:03 PM
Zanshin
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid

I am trying to avoid purchasing 2 new mooring lines of the correct type and diameter (I'd go for 12-strand, it is easy to splice an eye and they are handier than 3-strand. The existing line has the advantage that I can use it on bad docks or in situations where I'd not want to risk my good dock lines; but it is heavy, particularly when wet, and hard to coil.

Two nights ago I took a temporary mooring ball at Nevis and at night the wind died down completely and the current spun me so that the mooring line had one wrap around the keel. In the morning a big of wind put me sideways to the mooring and my 3-strand had pressure on it and because of the cleat size I was unable to uncleat the line. I couldn't use the engine since I didn't know where the line under the boat was and in the end used another line, a rolling hitch, and my windlass with anchor chain detached to release pressure on the 3-strand so that I could uncleat it and release the line.

I like the Liros splice but as others have already posted to the thread each bend, splice and knot weakens the line so I shouldn't be cheap and get some appropriately sized mooring line.
05-15-2013 01:11 PM
miatapaul
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid

Quote:
Originally Posted by MastUndSchotbruch View Post
I had the same reaction. The weakest 'link' is whatever fits through your chocks, and there is no point wrangling a thicker line outside it. It will not make a difference in strength of the whole line (which will break at the weakest link) and just contribute aggravation.

The exception would be if you would go to the extreme of using a steel cable or some of the modern high-tech lines through the chocks but this is not what you were asking about.
Plus most of the high tech lines have little to no stretch, not comfortable for a mooring line and more likely to snap the cleat off as there is no shock absorption. I think the best is single braid nylon (ie New England ropes mega braid), so you have some stretch and strength, or plait line all they way.
05-15-2013 11:53 AM
MastUndSchotbruch
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid

Quote:
Originally Posted by chucklesR View Post
I'm confused, the reason you use the 1 1/4 3 strand is strength and bounce. A splice is a weak point, and the smaller double braid you can cleat is a weak point.

Go with 12 strand, 1 inch - strength is same, fits and has bounce. It's also better looking and coils without hockles (it's what I use for a mooring, albeit 3/4 inch).

Otherwise your best bet is a modification of the single strand eye splice here (page 6) http://www.neropes.com/Resources/84906_NEROPE.pdf
I had the same reaction. The weakest 'link' is whatever fits through your chocks, and there is no point wrangling a thicker line outside it. It will not make a difference in strength of the whole line (which will break at the weakest link) and just contribute aggravation.

The exception would be if you would go to the extreme of using a steel cable or some of the modern high-tech lines through the chocks but this is not what you were asking about.
05-15-2013 11:44 AM
chucklesR
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid

I'm confused, the reason you use the 1 1/4 3 strand is strength and bounce. A splice is a weak point, and the smaller double braid you can cleat is a weak point.

Go with 12 strand, 1 inch - strength is same, fits and has bounce. It's also better looking and coils without hockles (it's what I use for a mooring, albeit 3/4 inch).

Otherwise your best bet is a modification of the single strand eye splice here (page 6) http://www.neropes.com/Resources/84906_NEROPE.pdf
05-15-2013 09:51 AM
zz4gta
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid

http://www.liros.com/fileadmin/user_...ire_Splice.pdf

I'd do a wire to rope splice but for 2 ropes, I'd double the length of the buries. If you have the means, load the splice to couple thousand lbs and see if it works. This isn't common but it might work. Also choose the largest double braid you can use on your cleats. Ropes that are sized similarly, are easier to splice.

The real answer is to use smaller line. Who wants to coil 1-1/4" line?
05-14-2013 09:28 PM
Zanshin
Re: Splicing 3-strand line to double braid



1 1/4 inches.
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