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  Topic Review (Newest First)
1 Week Ago 10:55 AM
blobaugh
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

Thanks for the details! I will start looking into this stuff this summer when I get the boat back. It sounds exciting. I have been reading about some fun arduino projects as well
1 Week Ago 09:14 AM
tschmidty
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

So what I have on board is this:

a tiny wifi hub ($16): http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR7...ds=pocket+wifi

a wireless usb hub ($60): http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireles...ireless+usb+hu

a usb serial device($8): http://www.amazon.com/USB2-0-Adapter...usb+serial+422

a usb gps ($22): http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Receiv...=usb+gps&psc=1

The usb hub uses 12v power so runs directly off the battery and that drives everything else.

The gps and serial are plugged into the wireless usb hub. The wifi hub is because the usb hub does not support ad hoc (computer to computer) connections so needs to go through a hub.

So with this set up, my laptop connects to teh hub and can then see the gps and aupilot which is wired into the serial interface. The PolarNavy software Polar Navy - Marine Navigation Software then can see all of that and you can use it as a chartplotter to do everything you might want (routes, etc.)

Really can't say enough good things about the polarnavy software, works really well, easily downloads and updates charts (raster and vector), does everything you could want and it's only $50. You can install it on up to 5 computers and it has a trial version so you can test it out.
1 Week Ago 12:00 AM
blobaugh
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

I am a tech nerd also actually

Some research led me to the st1000 and st2000. The st2000 is only $70 more on Amazon currently. I will probably wind up getting one of those after my boat is out of the yard.

The Win10 tablet is a great idea. I found this RayControl app that works on most tablets, but unfortunately it does not work with this autotiller it seems.

Did you figure out how to make the autotiller wireless or do you constantly have to be connected to it to use the software with it?
1 Week Ago 11:35 PM
tschmidty
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

I have a Raymarine st1000 tiller pilot. Pretty easy install and works well. My only complaint is that it is a bit of a pain to calibrate. You have to go through the whole procedure to get it to calibrate the compass. It's not actually a problem except that I actually have mine set up that I can hook it up to my laptop and have it function as a chart plotter. It hooks up via a usb serial port.

On a side not PolarView software from Polar Navy is really nice inexpensive navigation software that will hook up to any number on instruments. My next step is to get a cheap windows 10 tablet to run it (<$100 fora cheap one these days) and you have a cheap chartplotter that can do all kinds of things. I have something like this:

Wavlink USB 2.0 Print Server LPR Printer Share 4 Port Network Device Adapter Hub Networking USB Server share Printers, USB Devices over Wired Ethernet or a Wireless Networking - Newegg.com

Which actually hooks everything up wirelessly. Kind of cool but I am a nerd on tech stuff.
1 Week Ago 07:00 PM
blobaugh
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

Good job on the windows. I bet that improves privacy at the dock quite a bit.

This past weekend I was on a friends 30' Beneteau and turned on the autopilot to raise and lower the sails. It made the job dramatically easier while single/shorthanding. Now I would love to have one. I went through your thread to find which you had used and you do not mention the model. Would you mind letting me know which it is?
1 Week Ago 06:46 PM
tschmidty
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

So 1/2 of the newest project I am working to finish:



I think they came out pretty nice, although I am not super crazy about the more modern look it gives the boat. I'll have to see it on the water to see how I really feel.

Started by masking things off and trimming it close. Drilled holes, cleaned everything with acetone, applied the 3m 4991 tape and used some finish nails to guide the windows in place. I then caulked it with Dow Corning 795 caulk, worked it in with a plastic spoon. Removed the tape and lightly screwed it on with #8 x 3/4 truss head screws (amazon) in oversize holes with EPDM washers I got from Grainger (EPDM Washer,0.17 IDx0.50 OD,PK100). I'll wait until the silicone cures and then tighten the screws just a tiny bit more.

I just couldn't bring myself to depend on silicon and tape to hold everything together and had to use some screws. I drilled the holes oversize, and installed it around 70 degrees so here in Charlotte, NC that is about mid point on temp range so expansion/contraction cracking things shouldn't be a problem. I was much more worried about the seal for the tape or silicone separating and allowing leaks.









In this last pic you can see how it came out with the automotive exhaust paint sprayed on the inside. It hides all the silicon and tape and really makes it look nice. That was another reason for the screws to be honest. Since the entire bond is dependent on the paint I wanted a little more insurance. I sanded, cleaned and painted well but still. Ignore the slightly sloppy silicon in this pic, I had to remove a really small piece of tape that ripped but it will be easy to clean up after the rest cures.

1 Week Ago 04:59 PM
blobaugh
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

That is really cool. A bit jealous my boat does not have that now
1 Week Ago 04:49 PM
tschmidty
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

Got the pop top working. I had to move the bracket a bit on the front of the hatch and drill a new hole in the sliding bit in the mast to get it to line up right. Partly because the PO had added a mast step to raise the mast and i added a sail track lock for a little extra security. Essentially it hooks up to the mast and slides up. The base also doubles as the place to hook the boom vang. Which puts pressure on the hatch dogs when using the vang but I feel it is manageable. The advantage is you can use the vang to lift the front of the hatch. I haven't quite figured out the attachment for the vang at the gooseneck but it shouldn't be too hard.



Speaking of, anyone know where to find these hatch dogs? one of mine is broken. Catalina has some at $40 apiece (huh?!) which i thought was bad until I actualyl found the perko ones which are $60-72 apiece. For a little latch thing.

2 Weeks Ago 09:00 AM
blobaugh
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

That starboard looks great! I got my first experience with that stuff this past weekend. It is amazing.

Do you have the measurements and a diagram on how your final centerboard will be done? How much weight are you putting into it?
2 Weeks Ago 07:22 PM
tschmidty
Re: '81 Spirit 23 in Charlotte, NC

So when I replaced the bulkheads I used regular plywood thinking I could seal it will enough. The chain plates are really hard to seal in my opinion, I feel like once you tension and untension the side stays the chainplate moves up and down breaking the seal and letting leaks in Well turns out I couldn't. I decided to redo it with starboard; doesn't look nearly as good, but it was quick and easy to replace and won't ever rot. It also does lighten up the cabin a bit I think. Gotta love not having to seal, stain, varnish wood!

Here is the old piece, you can see some pretty heavy rot:



Here is the new piece in the boat (ignore the mess). You can also see the carpet I put on the sides.



And finally I gave up on getting the old super cracked window frames to seal. If you can sense a theme here, it rained pretty hard on the last long weekend I took with the admiral so trying to make sure it doesn't happen again! So here is the 1/4 inch smoked acrylic cut in shape and the inside edge painted black with exhaust paint to hide the silicon and tape that will hold it on. Using a metod outlined somewhere else on this site, will link later.



And on a finaly note, I had to plane 1/16 off of my centerboard and added another 5lbs of lead weight at the bottom. There was one bump in the keel cavity that caused it to bind a bit and I wanted to add some more weight anyway.



So remeasuring the centerboard it is now back to the original 1 7/8 width (47mm)
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