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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Blown outboard prop shaft seal?
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Thread: Blown outboard prop shaft seal? Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-10-2013 09:45 AM
Sea Dawg
Re: Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

I can't see how pc 17 controls the bevel gear movement. I'm thinking maybe the bearing or seal didn't go all the way home. THey have an interference fit. To push the seal home protect it with a piece of hard wood and smack it nice and square to drive it home. Hoping by now you got it finished, but try that if not.
10-23-2013 08:55 AM
willyd
Re: Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

Thanks for all the help so far. I got it apart, removed the prop seal, replaced the O ring, greased things up, and got it back together last night, but I'm not sure I got the thrust bearing (part 17) down all the way on the shaft - the bevel gear can still move a bit, maybe 3/16", back and forth on the shaft.
10-19-2013 01:33 PM
Sea Dawg
Re: Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

10-19-2013 01:08 PM
Sea Dawg
Re: Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

Place in forward gear. Drain gearcase oil. Spray Croil or PB Blaster in the gearcase where salt crust builds and holds carrier from sliding out. Make a J-hook pulling tool out of flatbar by grinding a notch on a bench grinder. Grab the other end with vice grips to give you something to hammer against. There's openings on the inside of the carrier you can hook onto for pulling. Move from side to side a little at a time. 10 11 12 13 14 will be coming out. Don't lose track of orientation of pc's 2 3 5 6 7 8 9. Take notes. Note seal 11 and bearing 13 orientation before removal as compared to your new ones. A wooden or teflon dowel will be used to knock them out or a flat screwdriver for the seal. The gear oil is either leaking along the shaft from the seal or oring 12 along the gear housing. The new seal needs a smooth surface to run on at the shaft. Strap lap the shaft with fine emory cloth. The oring needs a smooth surface in the gear housing. Hand smooth any rough areas, but don't remove too much metal. Marine grease running areas at assembly so these don't tear your new parts. Pay close attention that you don't leave out the shifting parts and as you slide it back together rotate shaft until you get the reverse gear and splines lined up and don't force it until it starts into the bearing. Alternate taps with a mallet on the carrier should get you there. Lastly, use marine anti seize on the bolts.
10-18-2013 04:26 PM
willyd
Re: Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sea Dawg View Post
You need to remove the prop and prop bearing carrier. It's not hard, and you'll be pleased with the confidence that you get. Look at a picture on Boat.net for your motor and you'll see it's a simple piece of machinery. Here's how it likely looks. Drain the oil. Careful removal and observation with a few pictures from a digital camera and you'll have it back together in a day. Order your parts ahead of time... anything rubber. Don't lose track of any shims or the order they came out. Good luck. 2002 And Earlier MFS6A Tohatsu Outboard GEAR CASE (PROPELLER SHAFT) Diagram and Parts
Sea Dawg, how do you get parts 10-14 in the diagram off of the shaft? My manual seems to skip this part, saying they all just slip off the shaft. I assume I need to use a puller, but not sure what to do here. Any help would be appreciated.
06-11-2013 11:25 AM
GrahamO
Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

I'm afraid I got it into the shop before I read the last few posts.... Too busy to mess with it at the moment anyway but I fully agree with the 'learn to be self sufficient' philosophy - oh well. I

suspect I will end up paying for a new seal that I probably did not need. Mind you, that pales into insignificance compared with the cost of my poor choice of yards this winter. Learning about looking after a large boat can be a VERY expensive process....

Thanks as ever for the support and advice.

Graham
06-03-2013 09:27 PM
Sea Dawg
Re: Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

You need to remove the prop and prop bearing carrier. It's not hard, and you'll be pleased with the confidence that you get. Look at a picture on Boat.net for your motor and you'll see it's a simple piece of machinery. Here's how it likely looks. Drain the oil. Careful removal and observation with a few pictures from a digital camera and you'll have it back together in a day. Order your parts ahead of time... anything rubber. Don't lose track of any shims or the order they came out. Good luck. 2002 And Earlier MFS6A Tohatsu Outboard GEAR CASE (PROPELLER SHAFT) Diagram and Parts
06-03-2013 07:30 PM
dabnis
Re: Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

Before you have it worked on suggest you drain the crankcase oil. If the oil leak is still there it is probably gear oil. If the leak stops, it is probably crankcase oil. Maybe first , just put it in its normal upright position and see if it continues to leak. Maybe either crankcase or gear case were overfilled prior to storing it on its side? Try the easy things before ripping it apart?

I have had many outboards over the years and never had a prop shaft seal fail. Winding up monofilament in the prop can "suck" it into the seal and damage it. Maybe running in very muddy or sandy water may wear it out quickly?

Paul T
06-03-2013 12:32 PM
GrahamO
Re: Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

You mean all this?

①Wash the engine exterior and flush the cooling water system thoroughly
with fresh water. Drain the water completely. Wipe off any surface water with an oily rag.
② Use a dry cloth to completely wipe off water and salt from the electrical components.
③ Drain all fuel from the fuel hoses, fuel pump, and carburetor, and clean these parts. Keep in mind that if gasoline is kept in the carbruretor (yes - this is the spelling in the manual) for a long time, gum and varnish will develop, causing the float valve to stick, restricting the fuel flow.
④ Remove the spark plugs and spray storage oil (available from an authorized dealer) into the combustion chamber through the spark plug holes while slowly turning the motor over using the recoil starter.
⑤ Change the engine oil.
⑥ Change the gear oil in the gear case.
⑦ Apply grease to the propeller shaft.
⑧ Apply grease to all sliding parts, joints, nuts, and bolts.
⑨ Stand the outboard motor up vertically in a dry place.


Perhaps I should have waited until after I retire to get a boat.....

Been a bad week for me and engines. I managed to kill my equally abused lawnmower by filling the air filter with engine oil (another wrong-side issue....).
06-03-2013 11:52 AM
tommays
Re: Blown outboard prop shaft seal?

You have to change the oil once a year how hard is that

The rest of the issues are silly E-10 stuff that affects everything
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