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Galilee 15

48K views 106 replies 33 participants last post by  Strana 
#1 ·
I am currently learning to sail on a Galilee 15, and was wondering if anyone else out there sails one. It''s an older boat, made by Galilee Boatworks in Maryland (went out of business some years ago). She''s a beautiful little daysailer and handles very well (from what I can tell from my limited experience). When I look at newer daysailers being manufactured, they just can''t match her looks. I''m sure that they have the advantage of recent technology, but I think the Galilee is just the perfect mixture of form & function.

Either way, I was hoping to hear from anyone else who might happen to be sailing one....

Thanks,

Joe
 
#2 ·
I am reasonably familiar with the Galilee. When I first moved to Maryland, an aquaintance was looking to buy one new and so we went down to the factory in Mayo and looked at them being built and later sailed on one that belonged to a friend of my acquaintance. They were OK boats. Neither extremely well built but seeming to be reasonably solid.

In terms of sailing ability, when we first went out there was pretty light conditions and the boat seemed a little short of sail area for her weight. Things picked up as the daysail progressed and in moderate conditions she sailed quite well. I thought she was a handful in a stronger breeze and having trouble completing tacks reliably in a chop. I had concluded that some of the observed performance flaws comes from the Galilee''s extremely beamy hullform. Still these do make a nice daysailor.

Regards
Jeff
 
#3 ·
Their "beamy hullform" was one of the things that they appeared to be most proud of (maybe that''s why they went out of business); the brochure goes on about how the 6''8" beam combined with 120lbs of internal ballst gives you great stability and a big boat feel in a small boat.

What gave you the impression that she was a handful in stronger breezes. I''ve only sailed it in light conditions and am curious about other peoples experiences with similar boats.

Thanks,

Joe
 
#5 ·
My accessment has not changed in 11 years. I have not sailed one and barely even seen one since. In a slight coincidence, I had an intern architect who worked for me whose uncle built the Galilee. The molds still existed and at one point Jonah (that really was his name) was thinking of building one for himself.

The only thing I would say is that it was a ideosyncratic design and has some interesting and perhaps appealing features and some odd less understandable features.

There are a lot of neat daysailors out there many of which are simply better boats in a very general sense. There does not seem to be a following for these boats.To buy a used Galilee today, the price would need to be very cheap, and her design well suited to where and how you plan to sail.

Jeff
 
#8 · (Edited)
I have a Galilee 15 that I bought in less than prime condition on Dregs list a couple of years ago. Just before I started having health problems following an automobile accident.

I am pretty much over the problem I was having and have the minor dock rash on the bow patched up, leaves, scum, varnish, rigging and now the trailer problems mostly cleaned up. I was going to go plunk it in the water last Saturday and see if it floats but the trailer developed a hot wheel bearing which has lead me to have to replace both hubs, bearings and spindles on the wimpy little axle the tiny wheels turn on.

I'll splash her shortly after the wheels on the trailer are turning again. There will be a little welding job there to replace both spindles, springs and fix bunk brackets. If after that, I think it is worth it, I will make new splash boards as the old ones are split and down right scaly looking.

Wish me luck!
O'
 
#12 ·
I recently managed to break off the cheek plates off the rudder post of my Galilee 15 and lose the rudder - and all steering. Anyone know of a reasonable replacement rudder or have one lying around from a junked Galilee 15? I figure if I can get new cheek plates made and welded on - but then I need a rudder blade. Any other suggestions for the repair would be helpful. Thanks!

Chris P
 
#80 ·
I recently picked up a Galilee 15 and it works pretty well. But I am trying to replace the lines that go into the rudder under the "cheekplate"? and then goes up the rudder post. I don't understand how the lines attach to the rudder under the cheek plate as the lines are mashed under that plate when bolted down. Seems like there ought to be space for the lines to move. Any ideas?
 
#19 ·
I realize this is an old posting but I just purchased the 15 and wondering if there is another forum? Also would like to know if anyone has found a source for parts such as a scupper plug or details on rigging the Flasher (spinnaker). Any feedback would be appreciated.
John
 
#20 ·
I realize this is an old posting but wondering if you had found a good source for parts, etc. I just purchased a 15 in excellent shape but not sure what the future holds. Also, not sure where to attach a topping lift on the mast as this boat does not have one installed. Any help would be appreciated. (also not sure how to post for all to see)
Thanks,
John
 
#21 ·
Also have recently purchased a Galilee. Looking for a source of parts if needed. Also, I need to install a topping lift to keep the boom from having rest in the hull but don' see anywhere to attach at the top of the mast. (not sure how to post this to the group).
Hopefully you can help.
Thanks,
John
 
#25 ·
I am also sailing a Galilee. I have a question regarding a huge amount of water coming out of the stern plug. It has been in a slip all summer. Not sure where the water is coming from as it appears to be clean, fresh water. You could hear the water sloshing around in the hull when moving the trailer up and down. Hopefully someone has a answer. Not sure if they used some water as ballast. Would appreciate any help.
John
 
#26 · (Edited)
I am getting a Galilee 15 back in service and used a standard 1" deck stanchion to fabricate a new tiller head along with a jamb cleat with a down turn fairlead. Parts have not been an issue as most appear to be standard Dwyer at least for the mast and boom and the local Doyles Loft can make the Standing Rigging relatively inexpensively while you wait.

Original Brochure and Owners Manual are available on-line.
http://ruach.net/Boats/Galilee15SalesBrochure.pdf
http://rvharvey.com/Galilee15OwnersManual.pdf

Many seem to loose the pin for setting the dagger board height (that's what the 2 stainless steel rests at the back of the centerboard trunk are for) for shallow water sailing to get the full range of draft with several choices from about 7 inches to 3 feet 7 inches.

I am putting a BoomKicker on instead of a topping lift.

You do have to lift the bow high to drain the bilge completely and may need to open the air vent plug between the mast and storage area in the bow in order to get better flow. Folks who do not set the tiller head in with both the pin and clamp may tend to drop the rudder post and ground them which may crack the tube the rudder shaft passes through. Putting an inspection hatch in the cockpit will make it very easy to check this area and do any repairs on the tube plus get you access to the nuts holding the motor mount on the stern.

Super Sail Makers have the Main, Jib and Genoa available:
Galilee 15 Main Sail by Super Sailmakers

Here are some pics of what I have done for the tiller and to repair the gooseneck. Note that the Fairlead Jam Cleat has not been installed on the tiller yet. Gooseneck was broken however I welded a new tab on so it can be used while sourcing a replacement at reasonable cost.

Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Furniture


Antique tool Tool Metal


Auto part


Its not a race boat but for a picnic boat its pretty nice. I am told it got beat up being in the rental pool and that most greatly preferred her to the Capri 14.2 that was stored right next to her.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I have tested it by hanging from it and the math says its got enough weld are to have tensile and shear strength of some thousands of pounds so I will be cautiously optimistic while keeping an eye on it for distortion.

The Galilee's fiberglass on the hull and in the cockpit was in the best condition of any sub $2,000 boat I had looked at despite being only $500 and the issues that it did have appeared well suited to my skill set with the plus that it was at the Sailing Center which I feel is a worthy cause.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for the thread. I am considering a boom kicker as well. Have you decided which to use and what manufacturer. I am not clear on your other posts. Regarding water drainage, I have an access port below the access to the cooler. Is this the one you say should be opened to faciliate draining? I have epoxied the bottom of the dagger board as I thought that might be a source of leaks as it had rough edges along the very bottom.
I look forward to hearing from you and staying in touch as there are not many Galilee's out there.
Thanks again,
John
 
#30 ·
I am going with the Selodair BoomKicker 312 due to its no drilling required/simple design and am getting it from West Marine since they had the best price I have found so far at $79.99.

Boomkicker

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seoladair--boomkicker-boom-supports--P002_063_003_501?recordNum=2

The little white plug on the top of the center board trunk that you twist 1/4 of a turn to remove is just an air vent to allow the bilge to drain faster.

Inside the forward compartment just below the access opening is a seem between the cooler and the cockpit wall which may be open and let water into the bilge. Some may be inclined to caulk this seam but then you will need to mop up any water that splashes in there with a rag or a sponge since it will no longer drain out through the bilge.

The dagger board is a loose accessory and not integral to the hull so I would look elsewhere for the source of the water The bottom of the dagger board is a hefty piece of metal and part of the ballast of the boat making up the bottom several inches of the dagger board. If the boat was grounded there could be some damage to the rear of the trunk where the board passes through.

The cockpit drain would be the next source to look at for water coming in and may need to be re-bedded with caulk both where it goes through the cockpit floor and exits the hull.

Inside the transom there is a section of 1 inch PVC pipe that the rudder shaft goes through from the deck to about an inch below the hull which you will have to cut a hole in the back wall of the cockpit to get to. A 10 or 12 inch inspection hatch will be needed to cover it up afterwards. You may find that pipe cracked below the waterline if someone ran aground after the tiller head came loose and the rudder shaft dropped partially out so that the top end of the stainless steel shaft cracked the PVC pipe when the shaft started dropping out of the transom. Some thick wall PVC pipe and fittings can be used to repair it along with some 5200 to seal where it goes through the hull.

Today I hope to be finishing up the repairs to the bottom of the pipe where it exits the hull as that is where the last renter did the most damage when he dropped the rudder and lost the tiller head. I will be using a 1 inch PVC Pipe Coupling, a small section of 1 inch PVC Pipe to fill in a chipped out section of the existing pipe, Purple Cleaner, Heavy Duty PVC Cement and some 5200 Caulking to seal it to the hull.
 
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