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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Bulkhead refinishing question
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Thread: Bulkhead refinishing question Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-02-2013 09:46 AM
Sabreman
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Quote:
My PO used a min-wax cherry stain. (dark) I'd love to get it back to the natural color and lighten it up.
I have no idea why people insist on staining wood, especially teak. The only reason to stain a wood is to make it look like another wood, to make a cheaper wood like an expensive one. But why would someone stain one of the most expensive woods to look like a much cheaper one? Regardless, I wouldn't even try to lighten it up. Once the stain is in the wood fibers, the only way to get it back to natural teak color is to sand it down. If you're dealing with a veneer which is most likely, then it's a non-starter.

Quote:
BTW, was it you that steered me to a card scraper?
Possibly. I'm a huge fan of scrapers. They're far faster and controllable than any sort of sander. I'm glad that it worked out for you.
07-02-2013 01:21 AM
poopdeckpappy
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Try some Formsby's furniture refinish or Ploy remover ( test first ) either one should remove the finish without damaging the grain ( again test first )
07-02-2013 12:56 AM
Tempest
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Thanks for that info Sabreman. My PO used a min-wax cherry stain. (dark) I'd love to get it back to the natural color and lighten it up. I re-did the sole with Ultimate Sole several years ago, but the desire to sail and other projects have kept me from adressing the interior wood. I like the idea of doing it in smaller bits.

BTW, was it you that steered me to a card scraper? I bought a nice set w/handle from Woodcraft works great on the toe rails! Thanks.

Apologies to the PO for any drift.
07-02-2013 12:38 AM
Sabreman
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

In the 80's, Sabre didn't put a finish on their interiors. Some people would use Murphy's Oil Soap or any number of "oils" which tend to look nice for about 5 minutes then collect dirt, progressively darkening the wood. Teak is naturally oily and does not need to be oiled, especially interior wood. Fortunately, my PO was lazy and didn't do much to the interior, so I mostly had just dirt. I used a plastic pot scrubby with acetone to give the wood a good cleaning. Then I sanded lightly with 220 grit sandpaper and then applied 5 coats of satin Minwax Wipe-on Poly. For handholds, window frames, table, and other high wear objects, I used gloss. I only wipe with a damp cloth from time to time to clean up. The interior is all teak, so I broke up the job, working on the head, then V berth and hallway, main salon, and finally galley & chart table. I didn't move to the next section until I was done with the current one. The photo shows the natural color of teak which is not dark.

Admission of Guilt: I don't apply finish or sand between coats with the same care that I use for my furniture. It's a flippin' boat and even I have my limits for persnickety-ness. I take care and it shows but seriously, a boat is a lesson in entropy. It looks nice enough....and then I drop a winch handle, it bounces down the steps, off the corner of the chart table, and onto my high gloss floor. So much for perfection.
07-01-2013 08:05 PM
Tempest
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Mark, Was Victoria's interior wood that light in color originally, or did you strip and re-do? looks fantastic!
07-01-2013 06:57 PM
Sabreman
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

At the risk of writing something that you don't want to read, why not do it over? You did it once and don't like the result. So every time that you look at the bulkhead (i.e., every time you're on the boat), you'll hate it. Why not suck it up and do it right. You'll be a lot happier and that's what a boat's supposed to do for you.

While PolyShades is most definitely a compromise, all Minwax products should not be grouped with it. I use gallons of Minwax Wipe-on Poly and Helmsman Urethane and have never had an adhesion failure when using fresh product. Even old stuff is ok, but difficult to get a good flow. I use it on the furniture that I build and Victoria's interior. Good stuff that's difficult mess up.

FURNITURE

06-30-2013 10:14 PM
CalebD
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Another wood butcher here who hates Polyshades. What an awful product!

Since I'm not a fan of that finish I would NOT coat it with anything with anything except perhaps sandpaper! Let the weather get to it and maybe some of it will fall off.

What I like for finishing Teak & Mahogany is to oil the wood first (teak oil or tung oil) and then apply a coating like varnish or Cetol. Oils bring out the grain and color of the wood while most stains cover it.

Mostly, throw out or give away that Polys-hades crap.
06-30-2013 09:48 PM
bobmcgov
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Oh dear ... it was Polyshades? I do loathe that stuff. At least a separate stain & varnish puts the pigment at the surface of the wood, where it lies flat. Polyshades is what you call a toner coating -- it suspends pigment like chaff in the film, so it scatters light in all directions. That's why it's so horribly mud-like. Minwax should be ashamed of that product. It makes many customers sad.

I'd try a gel stripper on one face of one bulkhead. Nice thing about Polyshades is the color IS in the coating. So if you can remove the varnish, you should take most of the color off with it. Follow up with a light brass-brushing parallel to the grain, sand 150 + 180 grit, and try again.

Yeah, wood finishing has a learning curve. Doesn't help that so many manufactureres are so dishonest about their products. (FWIW, we did use Polyshades on our ceiling beams. I wanted a one-and-done process & figured, at 14 feet, who is gonna see em?)
06-30-2013 07:50 PM
alongslowdrift
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Well, with the whirlwind of misinformation flying around my head, I guess I will run this question by you guys as well. With this Minwax polyshades product, should I bother going through with adding a couple coats of a spar varnish on top of it? Is that unnecessary because the Minwax already has the polyurethane? Getting the bulkheads back in a few days sooner would be a positive outcome of this situtation.
06-30-2013 07:44 PM
alongslowdrift
Re: Bulkhead refinishing question

Alas, I guess I will live with my too-dark bulkheads to my ever-lasting shame. Learning things the hard way, but still learning none-the-less. I'm ready to get all these projects done so I can actually do some sailing this year.
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