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Check connections, they're usually the problem. If you have a test meter, check that when you lift the float the voltage to ground goes from an open circuit to 12V. You could also use a DC light bulb.
I've never had one that worked correctly,now I don't use one,i'd rather not depend on something that may or may not work!instead I check my boat frequently and also the conditions of thru hulls etc
check all connections. it should work if both switches are turned to on and auto..there may be a metal plate switch that is man and auto and it sometimes gets changed without awareness of human on board--is a gremlin thing.
when my auto switch failed it failed turning pump ON, so check all connections. prolly isnt the automatic switch this time.
I had a problem where mine wouldn't work in manual OR auto, and it was one of the crimps down there. The environment is very corrosive, and only best practice will do when it comes to the connections : crimps with adhesive heat shrink.
I use water witch switches on my primary and secondary bilge pumps. I'm happy with them. They have out lived many pumps that they control.
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