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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Moisture in decks
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Thread: Moisture in decks Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-31-2013 08:56 PM
Alex W
Re: Moisture in decks

I took my 1986 Pearson 28-2 toe rail off today and learned how the deck/hull joint is made. If this candidate 31-2 is done the same way then I think you are unlikely to have a problem with the toe rail.

The hull and deck on my boat both have outward facing flanges. There is no wood core in the flanges, they are solid fiberglass. The deck flange is quite thin (maybe 1/4") while hull flange is at least 50% thicker.

The rub rail is placed on top of the deck, then the hull, deck, and rubrail are through bolted with 5/16" bolts on about 6" centers. The rubrail isn't sealed to the deck, but there is sealant between the hull and deck. That was pretty old and dry on my boat.

The teak toe rail is placed on top of the rub rail and bolted from below with #14 by 1-3/4" screws. The rub rail sits over the hull/deck joint bolts, so it has a concave cavity on the bottom edge to leave room for the bolts.

Finally there is a piece of plastic trim on the bottom that is held on with #10 bolts to make it all look pretty.

There was plenty of mud on my boat in the cavity under the teak toe rails (some areas of which were a little loose, that is what started my investigation in the first place). There was also damp dirt between the rub rail and the deck, especially near the beamiest part of the boat. On my boat Pearson doesn't have drainage that gets every last drop on the deck, so it's natural for water and dirt to get in between the rub rail and deck.

I think that this moisture is likely to be what pegged your surveyor's moisture meter. I don't think any of it is critical, there is no wood (except for the teak toe rail) anywhere near by to get rotten.

This does leave moisture under the stanchions as an issue. That is a concern, on my 28-2 there is wooden core there.

Here are links to a few photos:

Removing the rub rail, toe rail is already off:
http://sdrv.ms/18tJhWW

Hull deck joint seperated slightly as I'm cleaning the area between them:
http://sdrv.ms/18tJhWW

With fresh sealant, you can see a bulge where the area is between them:
http://sdrv.ms/15K2Lcg

Taking one side apart, removing old sealant, and resealing took me about 4 or 5 hours today. It'll probably take me another couple of hours to reassemble properly after making the teak pretty.
08-31-2013 07:44 PM
hellosailor
Re: Moisture in decks

Get a professional estimate to repair, or make the offer conditional on a repair, i.e. "Offering $30,000 with $10,000 to be held in escrow against the cost of repairing the deck".

Odds are when you find out what professional deck repairs cost, either you or the seller will run away fast. Or, you'll get a bargain, if you can do a major job yourself and don't mind investing a month in doing it. Removing and replacing all the deck hardware after repainting the deck. Little extras like that.
08-31-2013 06:27 PM
SloopJonB
Re: Moisture in decks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorksailor View Post
With thousands of boat for sale why buy one with a big problem...

You will not know the true extent of the problem until you have taken the whole thing apart...What if everything is twice as bad as you think!
It's a boat - make that three times.
08-31-2013 03:33 PM
Yorksailor
Re: Moisture in decks

With thousands of boat for sale why buy one with a big problem...

You will not know the true extent of the problem until you have taken the whole thing apart...What if everything is twice as bad as you think!
08-31-2013 12:35 PM
abrahamx
Re: Moisture in decks

Same with starboard side chainplates on a T30
08-31-2013 12:03 PM
eherlihy I don't know why port was worse in my observations. I only know that with several of the boats that I looked at this was the case.
08-31-2013 11:54 AM
Alex W
Re: Moisture in decks

The rubber gaskets were used in addition to sealant. I'm not sure that they make things any worse. I've rebedded the stanchions recently on my 28-2 and believe that they'd never been done before. I found that all of the holes were counterbored/beveled (which makes the sealant much more effective) and no signs of moisture anywhere.

Why do you think that the port side is normally worse?

I wonder if the PO properly bedded the teak toe rails when redoing them? That is on my project list for September.
08-31-2013 11:29 AM
eherlihy Other reason for delaminatiion is freeze thaw cycle... still serious.
08-31-2013 11:12 AM
eherlihy
Re: Moisture in decks

The areas that sound bad, are due to delamination. Delamination is probably due to the core rotting. In my experience, this is common with '80s vintage Pearsons. I believe that it is, at least partially, due to the way that Pearson Yachts sealed the stanchion bases to the deck; rubber gaskets.

If you love this particular Pearson 31, then make an offer figuring that it will need a core repair in the next 5-10 years. A professionally done core repair on the P-31 may cost in the neighborhood of $10K (YMMV).

If not this boat, look at other Pearson 31s. I believe that you will find that this is a common issue with mid to late '80s Pearson yachts - particularly on the port side.
08-31-2013 10:52 AM
abrahamx
Re: Moisture in decks

All things equal I'd take the Islander, but all things are not equal here. Thats just me though.
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