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Windlass Installation

4K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  windyway 
#1 · (Edited)
Some have requested that I post a thread on my current project for Windy Way. Total cost for this so far is about $500 including wire & hardware. I've been scrounging parts for about a year for this. I'm an economical type of guy :eek: (some may say cheap) so I wait for the good deals. I still don't know at this point if the 3" tube for the rode will work out or if the rope will bunch up inside it. I'm using 5/8 dia rope cause that is what the LEWMAR Concept 1 windlass calls for and I've chosen 3 strand nylon cause it's stiffer & hopefully won't bunch up. Storage under the FWD V berth has lots of room so there's no issue there. There is an UP switch beside the windlass and a DOWN & UP switch on the stbrd cockpit bulkhead. More often than not I'll only be using the UP switch & lowering the hook manually. (saves power).
I took a picture of the holes in the deck to show how thick it is up there, these boats are built well that's for sure. You can also see the faint outline of the Hauser hole I had to fill. I didn't want to be too anal about the finish here cause it's being all covered up. Yes the windlass is not centered on the deck, I did this so the rode would miss the forestay when the mast is up. (I almost forgot about this)
 

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#3 · (Edited)
Actually that part is designed rather well, there's a cover that goes on top of this hole allowing the rode to travel forward into it. I suspect no water ingress either with rain or bow waves, if a little does get through it's piped right into the bilge with the 3" rode pipe.

Wouldn't a hole cut to allow a locker hatch seriously weaken the foredeck? It would also take up valuable real estate up there, I like to sit up there while underway, one of my favorite spots.I also still have some storage (for pajamas?) in the FWD bulkhead.
 
#4 ·
Gotcha, I didn't think that too much water would get in.

For the locker, I think you would strengthen the foredeck quite a bit by making that front bulkhead permanently glassed in. I also don't know that I would make it big enough for the anchor to live in (although it would be nice), but even a small hatch to be able to store and sort the anchor rode would be nice.

But your solution looks quite workable since you can still get to it.
 
#5 ·
Looks like it works, and that is what is important. If the 3 strand gets hockled you may have an issue with the pipe - try eight strand as it is generally hockle proof.

How are you powering the windlass?
I've got a similar project coming on my new to me Irwin 38 CC as it came with no windlass. I figure I can pay 2.5k for one, or I can pay a chiropractor 2.5k for a temporary solution. I'll do a thread on it once I begin. I'm still in the 'thinking' stage on the power source (house bank with a 120amp breaker as a windlass of the size I need willl draw 80-100 normally) - or a localized group 31 battery and echo charger (again, properly fused).
 
#7 ·
Looks like a tidy job.. will be interested to hear whether or not the rope rode makes it 'down the spout' so to speak in practice.. Could be you'll need someone below to assist until you get to chain.

Where do you keep your boat?
 
#8 ·
Where do you keep your boat?
The boat is on a trailer beside my house under cover. I have beams & winches there where I can take it off the trailer for hull or swing keel work. In the spring I take it out & it sits in the driveway. Saves moorage & it's close by for all the small jobs that come up somehow during the sailing season. Why do you ask?
 
#9 ·
Just curious... we're in the same area. Wish we could bring the boat home like that ;)
 
#11 ·
Windlass Installation Finally Done!

Well the windlass is finally done! A bigger job than I thought. Pictures below are from the finished work. Solenoids are placed beside the windlass motor in the FWD stowage upper port side. The 3" white pipe ended up to be at an angle of 11 deg & was 30" long under the FWD settee. You can see the rope exiting this pipe from the cockpit if the cover is left off this stowage area. The rope does not bind up in the pipe but does stop once the pile gets too high so I have to jump inside & scoop the pile AFT. But it works great to my relief :D
 

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#13 ·
WindyWay is on the trailer now. She only comes off for sailing, keel work, & hull painting, & hopefully that's all behind me now (except sailing of course). The anchor roller is center on the bow, within a stainless attach bracket. It sticks over about 2 inches & has a loop of metal to keep the rode on it. The bow light is now mounted on the FWD pulpit. For 2 reasons, it's out of the way, and it can be seen farther away when the waves are high.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I'm using a G40 5/16 chain & 5/8 rope cause the LEWMAR Concept 1 gypsy is a 002 & that is what the manual calls up. The chain is 20 ft long, rope 350 Ft. I know that is way overkill for a 23 footer but the gypsy has to have that size to work right. & there is tons of room under the V berth to accommodate it.
 
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