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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-24-2013 10:42 AM
Re: Water in Cylinders

Jolly, thanks for the feedback, always interesting to know how things come out.

Paul T
11-24-2013 09:48 AM
Jolly Roger
Re: Water in Cylinders

To all members who helped me with water in my generator problem: I though you would like to hear the outcome.
I removed the head, then suspended the whole genny vertically in order to remove the pan and coní rods, This was a job in itself because the whole thing weighs about 350 lbs. Then I pushed the old pistons out the top of the block and found #3 rings completely solidónot due just to the water intrusion eitheróbecause the rings were glued in with dry oil and broke prizing them out.
I honed the bores using a Flex tool, then cleaned everything I could see, including scraping a layer of thick oil out the bottom of the pan with a chisel.
The tubes in the heat exchanger were 50% clogged with calcium buildup.
The head needed three new exhaust valves, which were pitted.
Clearly it was time for a total overhaul, never mind the water problem.
After everything was cleaned and painted afresh I began the rebuild. Three days meticulously fitting new pistons/rings and valves and replacing bits as best I could remember where they went.
With my heart in my mouth and the wife unable to watch, I finally pressed the ďgoĒ button and the darn thing fired up like nothing had ever been wrong.
#%!&*$ I didnít know whether to kick it or kiss it!
Parts cost $594.00 including three new pistons and rings, gaskets, oil, etc. The valve lapping from NAPA was another $55. The Flex tool was $45 and the ring clamp $14. With new pipes and bit and bobs total about $730.00
It now runs as smooth as a babyís bottom and quieter than before. Oil pressure 80 at startup, 60 running. Temperature 160F no load, 175F under full load.
Gauge is showing 126 volts and it does not even flinch when both ACís are on and the electric kettle is boiling for the tea.
Iíve started and stopped it five or six times to check if there was any water back-flushing, but I believe the new anti-siphon pipes prevent this. Plenty of water coming out the exhaust at the back of the boat.
Again, thanks for all your help fellas, and happy thanksgiving. Now what other jobs are on my listÖÖÖ
10-27-2013 10:30 AM
Re: Water in Cylinders

Don't know what your experience level is, but suggest you make a few short "shakedown" trips, especially if you have a lot of recently done work on all the various systems, before going on a long haul trip.

Paul T
10-27-2013 08:43 AM
Jolly Roger
Re: Water in Cylinders

Thanks for the info Mechsmith.
I know one thing, itís much easier writing about repairing these heavy machines than doing it. I strained my back lifting the damn thing, so I wonít be doing anything for a week, at least until the parts arrive.
Iím just going to get it all as clean as I can and from the looks of the inside I actually think the water only got into the #3 bore, after I switched it off. There was also no trace in the oil which I drained, or the filter.
I thought I was just about through with all the big renovations and alterations on this old tubóthat would be the boat, not the wife.
We were planning our first cruise to the Bahamas, come January. But it might be less stressful if we took one on The Royal Caribbean Line instead.
Iíll let you all know the moment the darn thing starts up again.
10-27-2013 07:09 AM
Re: Water in Cylinders

You gotta do what you gotta do. Antiseize is another product used as an assembly lube to insure the proper tension on head and main bearing bolts and other corrodible parts that may have to come apart some years later. Especially use the antiseize on bolts that go into any light metal parts. (prevents electrolytic corrosion)

Always use the locktite on the big end rod bolts and on small bolts that attach stamped parts to heavy parts. (oil pan-cam and rocker covers etc).

Are you having fun yet?
10-26-2013 09:08 PM
Jolly Roger
Re: Water in Cylinders

I donít know what Ďhot tankingí is, but if it means I have to take it somewhere it canít be done for the reasons Iíve already explained. The inside of the block is quite clean with no signs of rust, but I can scour it with a degreaser.
There is also no sign of rust or any contamination on the rods or big end shells.
I thought of using engine start (ether) or carbí cleaner (carbon tetí) on the passageways, then blowing them out with compressed air.
I told the machine shop guy what it was all about, and he said he would be careful with the valves, and only skim the head if it was outside normal limits. Iím sure they will do a better job than I could do with my suction cups.
I use locktite to stop screws coming loose, but is this another product?
10-26-2013 08:43 AM
Re: Water in Cylinders

Remove any oil plugs and small parts. Hot tank, Rifle brushes, lint free rags and time. After the hot tank spray it off good with WD40 or equivalent to prevent further rusting. It must be cleaner than dishes. Compressed air is useful.

Be careful that machine shop doesn't take too much metal off the valves. I have run across anodized or aluminized valves that shouldn't be ground at all. (Ford "Kent" engines for example).

I hope that you are familar with "antiseize" and "Locktite" or equivalent".

Good luck and it's actually kind of fun. All parts of the lifestyle!
10-25-2013 08:11 PM
desert rat
Re: Water in Cylinders

Galley brushes. very stiff small diameter bottle brushes 3 ft long.
10-25-2013 06:47 PM
Re: Water in Cylinders

A search on engine oil passage cleaners came up with all kinds of products:

If you suspect oil passages may be blocked, low oil pressure, or the pick up screen plugged up, or lots of sludge in the pan or valve covers, I suppose you could try one or more of the products.

If the passages are really plugged up, it is possible the only thing that may work is to have the block & head "hot tanked" by a shop.

Paul T
10-25-2013 06:14 PM
Jolly Roger
Re: Water in Cylinders

I had intended to re-lap the valves myself, but we have a NAPA machine shop in Titusville and they will do it, including skimming the head if it is warped, for $90. So I’ve given it to them because I have enough to do with the rest of the motor.
The piston with the seized rings was not just a result of the recent water ingress. The oilways were totally clogged up with old dry oil and it’s a wonder the engine did not throw the rod before now. Anyway, I have ordered new pistons and rings.
Now, bearing in mind the motor is sitting vertically, attached to the generator section beneath it, on it’s platform in the bilge. I can't possibly take it anywhere, it's just too heavy and won't fit through the door without splitting the generator off it.
So how is it best to clean the rest of the engine and oil ways?
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