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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest > General Discussion (sailing related) > Bottom Job
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Thread: Bottom Job Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-10-2007 08:15 PM
Sailormon6 The easiest, least expensive way I've found for a do-it-yourselfer to remove old bottom paint is to use a paint stripper made specifically for use on fiberglass. I get it at a paint supply store that specializes in automobile paints. Don't use ordinary paint strippers, because they're too aggressive, and will damage the gel coat.

Spread a tarp under the boat, and brush the stripper on with a 4" brush. Don't scrape it off. Keep brushing additional coats of stripper on top of the old paint and prior coats of stripper. The objective is to keep it wet. After 3-4 coats of stripper, try to scrape the paint off a small area. When most of the paint comes off an area with fairly easy scraping, then it's ready to be scraped off. If the paint doesn't scrape off fairly easily, then apply more coats of stripper. When you scrape it, just let it drop on the tarp and when you're done, roll up the tarp and throw it away.

After the paint has been remoived, I wipe the area with acetone and then wash it with soapy water, rinsing it thoroughly.
03-10-2007 05:23 PM
Tom967 I had my boat 7 months on the hard.."One of the perks here in Florida...So I learned and emulated from the very best..The pros and boatbuilders...Getting the old old layers of paint is the dirtiest job in the world..a bit dangerous I might add.."On skin and respitory system" and takes forever...and a pain in the ass for others working on their boats...What would take you two solid weeks can be accomplished in 40 minutes.."Call in the sandblaster"..

Now If you can afford a little time...get a gallon of 2 part marine tex and a putty knife..Fair this compound to your hull..sand it out.."A couple of days ...if you work hard"
Now use Pettit Protect.. follow directions closely...bonds with bottom paint..West marine bottom paint fine..in fact made by Pettit.."By the way the fairing compound will protect against blisters..Now you have ultra first class job.."Actually if you go to my website..www.afewgoodboats.com...I have pictures of these processes...Link #2..The Boatyard..Larry Link...one of the best..old school boatbuilder..
03-10-2007 05:10 PM
T37Chef
Nothing to do with noise...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mc51
sanding seems to be faster. Luckily we're at the end of a dead end street. I don't complain to my neighbor about how loud his Harley is so he can't complain about the sander's noise.
Mc51
It has nothing to do with the noise, rather the dust created from the sanding that contains very harmful products, not to mention when the dust settles and you get the slightest amount of moisture, it will be the color of the paint your sanding. This is also a main reason you MUST use a vacuum attachment when sanding in the boat yard. Not much will piss me off more then when someone does that right after polishing my boat.
03-10-2007 05:04 PM
sailingfool
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mc51
Much Thanks! ....but the sanding seems to be faster. Luckily we're at the end of a dead end street. I don't complain to my neighbor about how loud his Harley is so he can't complain about the sander's noise.
Mc51
If your sander doesn't have a vacuum pickup so you leave no residue, keep an eye out for anyone from the EPA, you would be in big hot water...
03-10-2007 04:43 PM
Sailormon6 If you decide to apply a barrier coat, read and follow the directions on the label carefully. The label says that each coat of barrier paint should be applied within a certain period of time after the previous coat, and the first coat of antifouling paint should also be applied within the same period of time. The reason is to make sure they are chemically bonded. If you don't follow that time schedule, you need to apply a primer before the first coat of antifouling. Otherwise, the antifouling might peel off. If you have any doubts, call the Interlux 800 number on the label. They have an excellent tech support line.

I assume you're planning to keep the Cal for awhile, since you're doing that much work on it. If so, I'd suggest you barrier coat it, even if it has no blisters. The hardest work is stripping off the old paint. Once that's done, applying barrier coat isn't a bad job, and it's good long-term insurance against future problems. I just had mine stripped, and will be barrier coating it this spring, as soon as the weather breaks, so I'm following my own advice.
03-10-2007 04:41 PM
T37Chef I hope that you got your original question answered? If not, I would barrier coat anyway, acts as a primer and cant hurt if your thinking of keeping her in the water for even part of the year.

If you do this, it is imperative to remove all contaminates and bottom paint so that you get a good bond. Another tip would be to apply the first coat of bottom paint before your primer/barrier coat is cured, approx 3-4 hours after.
03-10-2007 04:31 PM
Mc51 Much Thanks! to all for the replies. We decided to use ablative paint because we are not sure if we will leve it in a slip. Since I built the trailer good enough to bring the boat back here to the Gulf from Ca. Taking it back and forth is one of the options, depending on hour hard it it to step the mast ourselves. I might leave it in April through December and them bring it to the house for a refit each year during the four coldest months. The Gel coat looks good, no blistering found so far, but it is 36 years old. I tried my on sand blaster but the sanding seems to be faster. Luckily we're at the end of a dead end street. I don't complain to my neighbor about how loud his Harley is so he can't complain about the sander's noise.
Mc51
03-10-2007 03:18 PM
soul searcher may have said that wrong, recomended for boats that are trailered or put on a lift.
try this it might helphttp://www.pettitpaint.com/perfect_pick.asp
03-10-2007 02:42 PM
Fstbttms
Quote:
Originally Posted by soul searcher
If your trailering it they make anti fouls specificaly for that I wouldn't use a soft paint on a trailered boat.
I disagree. One of the few advantages ablative paints have over epoxies is that they can withstand extended periods exposed to air, making them a good choice for trailerables. I am unaware of any anti fouling made specifically for use on trailerable boats.
03-10-2007 02:39 PM
sailingfool
Bottom Paint

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mc51
I recently purchased a Cal24. We are doing the bottom job ourself and are in the process of sanding 36 years worth of bottom paint off. I will use west marine's ablative type anti-foul paint. Can someone tell me if I have to use some type of primer before rolling on the new paint.
Mc51
If the boat presently show no apparent blistering, I would not bother with putting on a barrier coat - no blisters, no need...unless you are dramatically changing how the boat is used, such as moving to the Caribbean for 12 months use a year, in which case it deserves some thought as a precaution.

Take a look at http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/default.asp for excellent instructions on bottom prep, I doubt you want to use a hard paint as a primer. If you have any questions there's a free 800 number buried at the bottom of some pages. Also,if you check at West Marine, they can probably confirm the paint they sell is actually private-labled Interlux.
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