|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-10-2007 07:15 PM|
The easiest, least expensive way I've found for a do-it-yourselfer to remove old bottom paint is to use a paint stripper made specifically for use on fiberglass. I get it at a paint supply store that specializes in automobile paints. Don't use ordinary paint strippers, because they're too aggressive, and will damage the gel coat.
Spread a tarp under the boat, and brush the stripper on with a 4" brush. Don't scrape it off. Keep brushing additional coats of stripper on top of the old paint and prior coats of stripper. The objective is to keep it wet. After 3-4 coats of stripper, try to scrape the paint off a small area. When most of the paint comes off an area with fairly easy scraping, then it's ready to be scraped off. If the paint doesn't scrape off fairly easily, then apply more coats of stripper. When you scrape it, just let it drop on the tarp and when you're done, roll up the tarp and throw it away.
After the paint has been remoived, I wipe the area with acetone and then wash it with soapy water, rinsing it thoroughly.
|03-10-2007 04:23 PM|
I had my boat 7 months on the hard.."One of the perks here in Florida...So I learned and emulated from the very best..The pros and boatbuilders...Getting the old old layers of paint is the dirtiest job in the world..a bit dangerous I might add.."On skin and respitory system" and takes forever...and a pain in the ass for others working on their boats...What would take you two solid weeks can be accomplished in 40 minutes.."Call in the sandblaster"..
Now If you can afford a little time...get a gallon of 2 part marine tex and a putty knife..Fair this compound to your hull..sand it out.."A couple of days ...if you work hard"
Now use Pettit Protect.. follow directions closely...bonds with bottom paint..West marine bottom paint fine..in fact made by Pettit.."By the way the fairing compound will protect against blisters..Now you have ultra first class job.."Actually if you go to my website..www.afewgoodboats.com...I have pictures of these processes...Link #2..The Boatyard..Larry Link...one of the best..old school boatbuilder..
|03-10-2007 04:10 PM|
Nothing to do with noise...
Originally Posted by Mc51
|03-10-2007 04:04 PM|
Originally Posted by Mc51
|03-10-2007 03:43 PM|
If you decide to apply a barrier coat, read and follow the directions on the label carefully. The label says that each coat of barrier paint should be applied within a certain period of time after the previous coat, and the first coat of antifouling paint should also be applied within the same period of time. The reason is to make sure they are chemically bonded. If you don't follow that time schedule, you need to apply a primer before the first coat of antifouling. Otherwise, the antifouling might peel off. If you have any doubts, call the Interlux 800 number on the label. They have an excellent tech support line.
I assume you're planning to keep the Cal for awhile, since you're doing that much work on it. If so, I'd suggest you barrier coat it, even if it has no blisters. The hardest work is stripping off the old paint. Once that's done, applying barrier coat isn't a bad job, and it's good long-term insurance against future problems. I just had mine stripped, and will be barrier coating it this spring, as soon as the weather breaks, so I'm following my own advice.
|03-10-2007 03:41 PM|
I hope that you got your original question answered? If not, I would barrier coat anyway, acts as a primer and cant hurt if your thinking of keeping her in the water for even part of the year.
If you do this, it is imperative to remove all contaminates and bottom paint so that you get a good bond. Another tip would be to apply the first coat of bottom paint before your primer/barrier coat is cured, approx 3-4 hours after.
|03-10-2007 03:31 PM|
Much Thanks! to all for the replies. We decided to use ablative paint because we are not sure if we will leve it in a slip. Since I built the trailer good enough to bring the boat back here to the Gulf from Ca. Taking it back and forth is one of the options, depending on hour hard it it to step the mast ourselves. I might leave it in April through December and them bring it to the house for a refit each year during the four coldest months. The Gel coat looks good, no blistering found so far, but it is 36 years old. I tried my on sand blaster but the sanding seems to be faster. Luckily we're at the end of a dead end street. I don't complain to my neighbor about how loud his Harley is so he can't complain about the sander's noise.
|03-10-2007 02:18 PM|
may have said that wrong, recomended for boats that are trailered or put on a lift.
try this it might helphttp://www.pettitpaint.com/perfect_pick.asp
|03-10-2007 01:42 PM|
Originally Posted by soul searcher
|03-10-2007 01:39 PM|
Originally Posted by Mc51
Take a look at http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/default.asp for excellent instructions on bottom prep, I doubt you want to use a hard paint as a primer. If you have any questions there's a free 800 number buried at the bottom of some pages. Also,if you check at West Marine, they can probably confirm the paint they sell is actually private-labled Interlux.
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