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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Prepping to re-bed stanchions.
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Thread: Prepping to re-bed stanchions. Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-11-2014 09:51 AM
christian.hess
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

I just rebed my toe rails...there are 90 of them(fasteners)


80 or so per side where fine...

the 10 that needed were replaced...

thats how that works

I must add there are a lot more loads on stanchions if used correctly than on toerails...so I agree if you can youd do well getting new ones, but remember new is not always better especially regarding rigging and metals...
01-11-2014 12:25 AM
rugosa
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

[QUOTE=MarkSF;1293986]
Have a few spare bolts, nuts and washers (or replace them all) I had a couple that siezed or were badly corroded.QUOTE]

Why go to the length of removing stanchion bases, or other hardware, and not replace all fasteners at the same time? Potentially corroded or stressed fasteners are a weak point in the re-install.
01-10-2014 10:24 PM
utchuckd
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

I got my butyl tape from Maine back a couple months ago, just now getting around to attempting the project. Thanks for all the advice, I found Maine's guide to potting holes last night too, not sure how I had missed it before. Thanks everybody.
01-10-2014 03:10 PM
jrd22
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

Follow the instructions provided in the link to Compass Marine (Mainsail here on SN). It's an extra couple of steps, but fairly minimal time, and you will never have to worry about a wet core in those areas again. Also, order the butyl rubber for re-bedding from Mainsail, his is infinitely better than the Home Depot stuff.
01-10-2014 01:44 PM
MarkSF
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck53 View Post
Here's what I did when I rebedded my stanctions on a boat I had some years ago...
Most boats do have wood cored decks. I took my power drill, put a finishing nail in the chuck with about 1/2" of the nail bent 90 degrees. Put the nail in all the holes and turned on the drill basically opening up the core and not making the holes in both layers of fiberglass any larger. After that, I filled the enlarged holes with epoxy. After that dried, I redrilled the holes. After remounting my stanctions, I knew if any water did leak thru, it would only come in contact with hardened epoxy and never soak into the wood core.
I did mine last year (the left side) and I'm going to do the right this year.

This is pretty much spot on, except that I overdrilled the holes first.

So the procedure I followed :

Overdrill
Remove core with nail
Countersink the top (and bottom if you can reach it)
Mask the bottom of the holes
Fill with epoxy
Drill correct hole for fasteners
Countersink the top of the hole (helps sealant do its job)
Assemble with butyl tape

Have a few spare bolts, nuts and washers (or replace them all) I had a couple that siezed or were badly corroded.

I filled with unthickened West epoxy, which will shrink a little when it sets so then you top off with some more. My deck is sloping, so the second batch of epoxy got colloidal silica additive to make it not run, and sit level with the deck.
01-10-2014 12:27 PM
christian.hess
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

you manually dry them...heaters blow driers etc...then take off all the loose stuff. pot(I preffer thickened epoxy as its easier to push into gaps and stuff and stay there)and then redrill to original size

again I stress climate, for example here it wont rain again till july...salty dry air on the boat

I have been contemplating for example making bronze bushings for my chainplate holes cause in essence if there is any moevement the bushing will wear and not the wood in the bulkhead, especially if you have water intrusion

I sealed off the bulkead edges to prevent stagnant water intrusion but I think pressed in bushings like used in motor vehicles will help prolong bulkhead life

OP sorry for the slight derail

I think if I may add that using other materials like delrin or nylon backing plates help prevent movement and water intrusion from movemeng and sealant failure thta casues decks to fail

wood os great it you constantly check it...the issue with wood backing plates for example is that wood is porous so it soaks up a lot of the leak you are trying to source so for stanchions say you had some nice nylon backing plates if you did have a leak and your deck holes are epoxied the only inconvenience would be extra bilge water

its extremely important to never add sealant from BELOW ever ever ever...if there is a leak you want to see it and fix it from above on any deck mounted hardware

stanchions included

the moment you seal from below you are kissing your decks goodbye in no time..especially if you have water intrusion and cored decks

cheers
01-10-2014 11:49 AM
Alex W
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

I would pot the holes if you have any signs of water intrusion. Removing that first few mm of wood will let you know if there is water in the core.

If there is water in the core then you are onto a much bigger project, and one that I have no personal experience with. From reading a lot of threads it looks like the core will not dry out on it's own. Potting a wet core with epoxy can just trap the moisture, not eliminate it. It depends on how bad the situation is.

Epoxy is easy to deal with. I rebedded my stanchions one or two at a time on down days while cruising and didn't want to mess with it. If I were doing things again and back at my slip I'd pot them.
01-10-2014 10:55 AM
christian.hess
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pauloman View Post
good advise above but use an epoxy that can bond to posible damp surfaces and is reinforced with fiber/kelvar etc. for strength. Google/Bing Wet Dry 700 epoxy

note that you can insert greased screws/bolts into wet epoxy. When the epoxy cures you can un-screw the bolts and have a threaded/tapped hole.
most excellent advice...thats the prefect way to size holes in unknown materials...

for example most of my deckware has crappy and loose fitted holes done by previous owners or even islander...specifically the main sheet track is HIDEOUS there is no hole that is not oval or lobsided and from below it looks like crap

same for my stanchion holes, however those do get bent out of shape from useage so its not all islanders fault, jejeje
01-10-2014 10:52 AM
christian.hess
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

down here stuff dries in seconds! jajaja

the point above is correct and is dependant not only on the condition of your core but your WEATHER

My advice is if you have any doubt drill over size by a big margin...dry...epoxy and seal and drill standard size...but like mitiempo says if the core is wet or damp or crumbly you are doing yourslef ni favors by simply sealing and redrilling

like mentioned on other threads there are CHEAP or budget WAYS of fixing delamineted or rotted cores without taking apart your decks

cheers
01-10-2014 10:41 AM
mitiempo
Re: Prepping to re-bed stanchions.

If the core is more than slightly damp it is best removed to the area where it is dry. Airing it out will not dry it. And if it remains wet the core will continue to rot away.
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