|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-09-2007 08:31 PM|
You might be able to cut the nut off with a mini grinder or a dremel. Alternately if you are carful you could likely drill the head off the bolt so that it would fall through.
If you do cut the bulkhead be sure to reseal the edge with epoxy, I had to replace a bulkhead due to water running into the top edge.
|05-09-2007 07:48 PM|
I attempted to remove the lead tracks this weekend and found that when they were installed the factory cut the bolts about half way through and then snaped them off... a real pain in the hand ( the screw driver kept slipping) The one screw that is giving me trouble is the one above the bulkhead just forward of the nav station, i cant get a socket or box wrench on it. I hate to have to cut the bulkhead to get to it but I need to re seat the track
|04-19-2007 01:35 PM|
I have been rebedding the deck hardware on Shanti, my 1977 O'Day 27 as part of a major overhaul. Sounds like you are on the right path – over size holes, epoxy, rebore... I would add the following; when possible countersink - just slightly - the underside of the hardware even metal fittings can be countersunk. Teak or other wood fittings are easy of course. I also countersink the top of the deck just slightly into the fiberglass. This creates a small reservoir for the bedding material to sit in. It prevents total squeeze out and provides a thicker gasket right where you want it. I have been using Boat life caulk with success. Pay attention to the materials you are bonding not everything is compatible. Also remember you do not want to compromise the structural integrity of the deck or fittings.
I find child labor often to be very helpful …even when it is involuntary...
|04-14-2007 10:00 PM|
|sailingcal21||That's kinda what I was thinking also, soon as I get her back into the water and checked out for the season, I'll investigate further and post an update.|
|04-13-2007 05:10 PM|
|camaraderie||Scott...with the mention of "brown stuff" I am now concerned that you have a plywood/balsa deck core water intrusion situation. I would absolutely encourage you to cut through the liner and get at the underside of that deck so you can remove the track and make sure you don't have any deck integrity issues. You can always put a teak wood trim "patch" on the inside liner to make things look good again and give you easy and permanent access to the track. If you do have some water incursion tht is LIMITED in size...small holes can be drilled in the deck and epoxy injected to stabilize the situation.|
|04-13-2007 11:43 AM|
|sailingcal21||Yes, I'm afraid that's what the situation is on Karma. The screws penetrate through the cabin liner with plastic end caps on the inside. The nuts and washers are not on the outside of the cabin liner but are counter sunk so that they are secured to something between the cabin liner and the deck. When there is a leak it is coming from the under the screw and the leaking fluid contains something brown. Almost like a varnish when dried and stains the cabin liner.|
|04-13-2007 11:19 AM|
Rebedding sail tracks
I ended up doing this on my O28 several years ago and found that for a portion of the track, the screws penetrated the deck AND the cabin liner, and for the rest of the track, there was no cabin liner, so it was just the deck. In any case, on my boat, which was a 1979, the deck was/is cored, and a significant part of the stbd section had to be peeled, the balsa removed, a synthetic core material installed, and the deck replaced. Rebedding is a whole lot easier with two people, one on deck with the screw driver and the other in the salon holding the wrench to the nuts. FWIW,
Bill Coxe, O40 Kukulcán, New London, CT
|04-08-2007 11:16 AM|
|camaraderie||I would re-bed the whole thing as you'll just end up repeating the process...but as temporary solution, just doing the leaking fasteners till you have time to do the whole thing is fine.|
|04-08-2007 10:08 AM|
|sailingcal21||Thanks, I've only got leaks at 2 fasteners on either side but am planning on pulling up both tracks and rebedding them. I'm wondering if I can get away with only siliconing the leakers?... Probably not, huh?|
|04-07-2007 05:52 PM|
|camaraderie||Scott...I've done it several time but claim no particular expertise. Any leaks will come at the fasteners so it is important to bed them well and not tighten fully until the compound has fully set up or else you just squeeze it out of where it belongs. I used silicone on my fasteners and after loading up the holes and making sure the uppr threads of the bolts are well coated...I tighten down on the nuts just past finger tight...then wait for 24 hours to tighten fully so I have a nice rubber gasket under pressure for sealing. Hope that helps and no one tells me I've done it completely wrong. Worked for me!|
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