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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > outboard for sailboat?
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Thread: outboard for sailboat? Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-28-2013 10:46 AM
jhaley66
Re: outboard for sailboat?

What pitch prop did you use on the 9.9 Johnson?
04-25-2013 01:11 PM
sterilecuckoo58
Re: outboard for sailboat?

For what its worth, our 1970 Vivacity 24 has had an extra long 25" 9.9 2-stroke Johnson for 16 years, had the proper pitched prop so my folks experienced improved performance. Its predecessor was a long 20" 15 hp (same motor, different carb?) with a prop more suited to a none displacement skiff and in following seas the prop would pop out (always a following sea returning to port though Jones Inlet, Long Island, NY) so Mom would often set on the stern pulpit which, despite being a lightweight, improved things a bit.

After the XL began spitting steam (and an overheat...ugh..rebuilt) regularly we retired it and replaced it with a 4-stroke XL Tohatsu. [it was either that or a used OMC, I could not afford new to begin with, let alone a new OMC or Mercury)

Now here's the kicker... er literally... The Johnsons were mounted on a typical OMC bracket with a 1-7/8" thick plywood mounting plate that the motor hung on. I too the 4-stroke and put it right on and we went about our business for the season.

Bringing her in to her winter storage slip off Boston Harbor in early November (yeah, after Sandy, but that's another yarn) I had to demonstrate to the unknown person on the dock tending to his fine sailing yacht that I was a capable seaman and could slip my bought perfectly. So to arrest my way, I chose to use reverse briefly and gently. Except that somehow the throttle revved up (probably hitting he stern cut out?), and my nearly new engine did a reverse flip with a half twist and landed on the water.

It stopped running (thank you lanyard), and it didn't sink (thank you short batter cable clamped in place, well sealed enclosure and especially thank you adrenal glands). The mounting board broke across the two upper bolts which bolt it to the bracket. I made a new one out of 1-7/8" lam-beam and sealed it and mounted it . In maneuvering the motor down into the water Something Happened (credit due to Joe Heller, thanks Joe) and my beautiful new mount cracked the same way, still held together by some thread.

I made up another mounting block out of 2"x8" rough oak running grain vertically, and that worked despite an abrupt drop into the water.

So I am looking for a better way to carry that 4-stroke someplace sturdy astern. A set of inclined rails on the stern? Maybe right into the trapezoidal notch in the stern? I get the sense that the further forward the prop is, the better. Any thoughts? The Mayer thing in another thread seems too bulky a contraption.

I have hauled the boat for bottom repairs, inside ballast corrosion repairs, rub rail replacement and other less daunting tasks
07-15-2007 01:15 PM
SVDistantStar I mounted a 1972 40hp Evinrude on the back of a 1972 Pearson 36' sailboat. WE custom made the bracket and made a backing plate on the inside of the transom. Its held up for a year now with no issues(other then the motor giving up on life). If you make a backer for the mounting plate, it should be ok, just keep an eye on where the transom meets the hull sides.

On the otherhand, does anyone think a longshaft 15hp outboard would be enough power to keep the pearson going? The 40 is needed for another boat and ive found an extra longshaft 15hp Johnson to use. Ive moved the boat before with a shortshaft 15hp motor and had alot of cavation issues. I figure its enough power as long as the prop stays in the water. 15hp isnt far off what the little diesel was.
07-14-2007 08:46 PM
DrTheopolis
Prop pitch

On your outboard, what prop pitch do you have?

I sold my 8hp 300lb inboard and got a Honda outboard. It came with a 9" pitch prop. I am thinking a 7" would be best. Maybe less. What do you have?
04-30-2007 08:25 PM
Anastasis
Outboard mount

Seems like a lot of 'what-if's' out there. I had issues with my inboard Atomic 4 on a 1970 Cal 28. Decided to go the outboard route instead of hassle with another rebuild. I use a Yamaha 9.9 High-thrust model with a 25" shaft. I've used two mounting options- both the inboard well and a sailboat outboard bracket.

For the outboard bracket:
Pros: Easy to get the motor on/off, tilt-up available, easy to flush after sailing (lean over the side and attach the flushing rig)
Con: Hunk of metal hanging over te side.... It looks like all auxilliary outboards, not quite as pretty. Maintenance was sometimes an issue, especially with small parts. I rigged a catch bag around the motor to prevent losing stuff to Neptune
Inboard well:
Pros: Looks sharper, less chance of losing tools (although they fall through the hole just as easy) and the fuel/control lines were shorter
Cons: Difficult to pull out/ put in, since it required a lot of wiggling to fit into the factory cut out.

All told, I got 6-7 kts in the harbor, 5-6 kts open water with the 9.9, vice 4-5 kts with my Atomic. I reinforced the transom with 1"x6" oak planks where the bolts for the outboard bracket went in. I saw a little flex at full throttle. Using yamaha cables, I used my existing engine controls, then rigged a new fuel tank. The old one leaked and the boat smells better inside now.

I noticed little change in pitch with the extra weight on the stern. With the Atomic out, I've got extra storage for stuff and noticed better sailing characteristics with less weight. This boat has 2200 lbs of encapsulated lead for ballast.

Good luck with the decisions, it's tough. I did all the work myself and it definitely wasn't all clock work. Then again, anytime I had questions I just asked the local outboard shop and they had great answers. Total cost was around $2500 for everything.
04-23-2007 04:50 PM
CoralReefer It doesn't really matter 2 stroke or 4. The thing needed for sailboats without a diesel is an outboard with low RPM and large prop. I have a 15 Honda 4 stroke on my 26 footer. I had to replace the prop to get more thrust, went from a 9.25 x 9 to a 10 x 5. picked up 3 knots of boat speed. When your 35 miles from the nearest inlet to get outside that 3 knots cuts your travel time in half.
04-23-2007 04:00 PM
CosmosMariner The Watkins 25 was 'designed' for a 9 horse inboard Diesel. The option was for an o/b. The backing plate is only added if the option is chosen. 4 stroke version is 25lbs heavier than my 2 cycle...not a big deal on my boat...even less of a problem on a 30' boat. Also I'm not pushing 2 cycle here just giving an example of real life that works not theory or opinion.
04-23-2007 01:52 PM
capttb I've always had a warm spot for 2 strokes, the old ones,with carburetors and running pre-mix. And I fought against the dominance of Honda and other foreign companies longer than most, you know, "Rather paddle my Johnson than drive a rice burner". Anyway, couple years ago when I needed new engine for the dink I started shopping and ran into this little catch 22, needless to say I'm now the proud owner of a Honda 4 stroke 2 HP. Recently I've seen some new really small (1.5 to 3 hp) from American Companies, but at that time Honda was the only one with an engine lighter than a 4 HP available to us here. Oh well, at least I'm still drivin' a GMC.
04-23-2007 01:13 PM
sailingdog Four-stroke engines are considerably heavier than their two-stroke counterparts in general.
04-23-2007 01:06 PM
Guesser
Quote:
Originally Posted by capttb
Just called them and they say you cannot buy a new small 2 stroke in California, only the larger 2 strokes that are fuel injected.
So I'll stick with it being difficult to buy a new small 2 stroke.
So buy a 4-stroke.
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