|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-11-2007 09:20 AM|
Originally Posted by Sailormann
|05-11-2007 08:58 AM|
I did screw the flane to the starboard with wood screws. I'm not too worried about that though. The old seacocks were secured only by the flange on the thru-hull (no screws at all). I feel like the screws are only preventing it from rotating relative to the hull. I don't think there will be much force perpendicular to the starboard.
If it starts to leak, I'll just have to pull it out I guess. I think I'll be ok for now. Thanks for the responses...
|05-10-2007 11:54 PM|
|05-10-2007 05:53 PM|
If you through bolted, then it probably doesn't matter much... if you used screws to hold the seacock to the starboard, then it might matter... I don't know how well 5200 sticks to Starboard... If the new through hulls are replacing old ones, they may not have had backing plates and may have a flat surface because the manufacturer designed in a solid fiberglass (not cored) section for the through-hulls specifically at that point in the hull. The interior on most hulls is curved, and from your description, it sounds like that may be the what the maker did.
|05-10-2007 12:26 PM|
Marine ply and epoxy is still a better bet, in my view, because you can "dry fit" various pieces and the ply will flex a bit.
Another option is finding an offcut of teak for a few bucks and sealing that.
|05-10-2007 12:13 PM|
I just installed 4 new thru-hulls using Starboard as backing blocks. Sounds like I got some bad advise. My seacocks are Marelon and the tabs with the screw holes are pretty wide. I cut my blocks a little larger than the required footprint of the tabs/flange. I roughed up the Starboard with some 80-grit sandpaper and bedding it with 5200 on both sides.
All of the parts of the hull where I installed valves are very flat. In fact, none of the old seacocks had backing plates and the flanges weren't screwed down to anything.
Everything feels really secure. Should I be panicking? I sure don't have the time to redo the job before it goes in next week.
|05-08-2007 10:27 PM|
|sailingdog||I agree that the Starboard is not a very good material for a lot of purposes. For some things, like cupholders, stern seats, and such... it seems to work well.|
|05-08-2007 10:23 PM|
I bought a sheet of Starboard three years ago for just under 300 dollars. I still have most of it. It is very hard to work with. Saws easily enough, but it feels like a big piece of polyethylene. It does not hold screws well - they cannot be tightened to any extent without stripping the material. It is very heavy, yet still very flexible - nowhere nears as stiff as wood.
The only thing that bonds it is a 3m product called Starweld, that costs 70 some odd dollars (Cdn) for about 2 ounces. I am not sure who uses it Starboard, and frankly, I am surprised that it has found a market. I bought 1/2 inch as I had originally thought it might be good material for a bulkhead on a friend's boat.
It did make a good shelf for the VCR in our master bedroom. I still don't know what to do with the other 30 square feet - perhaps I can buy more VCR's ???
|05-08-2007 07:52 PM|
|Alden68||Don't forget you can buy AZEK and/or Fypon PVC lumber at any lumber yard which means you don't have to go to West I am sure it should never be used as a structural element but it is UV resistent, paintable (although you don't have to) any it can be shaped/sanded with everyday woodworking tools. AZEK comes in many widths and thicknesses and is even sold as a sheet good.|
|05-08-2007 07:42 PM|
Originally Posted by Jeff_H
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