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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-04-2014 07:25 PM
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

Speaking of oil pans, what are the Yanmar pans made of? My Yanmar 3gmd has a lot of iron/steel rust from a cockpit drain leak. The oil pan "looks" ok but no way to know for sure as access is really tight.

Material looks to be aluminum. Is this right? How corrosion resistant would the aluminum be (if that is what it is)? Note I see rusted (steel) bolts that are holding the oil pan that looks to be aluminum (some what appears to be white powder corrosion by-product).
02-26-2014 07:32 PM
Brent Swain
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

I was able it drop my oil pan between my engine mounts, and remove it, without unbolting the engine. It all depends how much room you have .If it looks doable, don't give up without trying it . I almost did. Glad I tried it first .
02-26-2014 04:20 PM
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

Thanks for all the responses, everyone.

I prefer to work on as much as I can with what resources I have. This all started with being unable to unscrew some corroded bolts from the water pump to engine block. I tried everything, but didn't have the torque to break them free. That's why the mechanic was called, who poked around while trying to break them free and says he noticed the oil pan problem. I will try to get more straight answers about it - it's hard to get a mechanic to say what actually needs to be done (because it means I now know the steps to do it myself)

Anyways, the water pump was leaking salt water all around before I owned the boat, but I'm confident that is the only source of salt water corrosion around the engine.

The pictures posted are helpful, yes the engine is under the settee and the galley in the Catalina 30.

I'll get down there with a light and look more, try to get clear answers from the mechanic. I'd really hate to haul out the boat and do this... I'm a full-time liveaboard, and this is a financially tight season.

Has anyone ever seen the method of raising the engine with the mainsheet/chain/winches? Is that extremely dangerous or practical?

----The full story about the water pump, is: 1st trip, they couldn't get the bolts off. 2nd trip they came back with a blowtorch but got the bolts off with bigger wrenches, breaking 1 bolt, then ran out of time. 3rd trip back they had four bolts and my new pump, and dropped a bolt in the bilge "unable to recover it". 4th trip they came back with a single bolt and finished the job.----
02-25-2014 04:35 PM
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

Back to the beginning, as mentioned by eherlihy, what is causing the rust, and how severe is it, before ripping things apart?

Paul T
02-25-2014 02:41 PM
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Nice writeup.. but I can't help thinking all that would have been a lot easier overall on a bench or an engine stand..

Looks like he maybe had to drop the oil pickup tube and strainer to pull the pan all the way out. Also a different situation (installation/access wise) than a C30.
... or an O'day 35.
02-25-2014 02:35 PM
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

Nice writeup.. but I can't help thinking all that would have been a lot easier overall on a bench or an engine stand..

Looks like he maybe had to drop the oil pickup tube and strainer to pull the pan all the way out. Also a different situation (installation/access wise) than a C30.
02-25-2014 02:17 PM
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

In my research I also came across this great post from a guy who rebuilt his M25-XP in situ on a Catalina 34; M25-XP Rebuild
02-25-2014 01:43 PM
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

Not the M25 but just a generic cross section of an engine.. Note that the oil pickup drops down to the pan floor.. In most cases you'll need to lift the engine enough to have the clearance to drop the pan to clear the pickup.

I suspect relatively few installations will give you that much lift while essentially 'in place'.

02-25-2014 01:01 PM
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

I have the same engine (M25) in my boat, and know that Maine Sail had the same in his Catalina.

I too have an issue with surface rust, and have been putting it off. Here is a pic;

...and here is an older pic showing the rust with the old motor mounts in place;

When I get up the courage to tackle this job, my plan is to disconnect the exhaust and the driveline (at the coupling), then remove the top nuts of the motor mounts. I will then raise the engine using the scissors jack from a Honda Civic (<2" high when collapsed). Once raised, I will also try to support the engine with a chain. My hope is that I will have room to squeeze my hand in between the oil pan, and that pan that supports the motor mounts.

There are 18 bolts and lock washers that hold the pan to the block (the four between the bell housing scare me the most), and then the dipstick assembly bolts onto the pan as well.

The rust was caused by a leaking raw water pump.
02-25-2014 08:16 AM
Re: Replacing Oil Pan

One of these days, I'm taking a diesel course. I can do all the basics. I'm pretty handy and fully subscribe to James point that we should all know how to fix things in a pinch. However, I find myself paying for knowledge I would prefer to have myself from time to time.

We've all heard the fable of the electrician/plumber/etc that shows up at a homeowners house, tweaks something for 5 mins and then hands the homeowner a $100 invoice. Upon objection from the homeowner that it only took 5 mins, the contractor rewrites the bill.... Cost to fix $5, knowing how to fix $95.
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