|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-23-2007 10:42 PM|
Seems that 5-40 counts as a "miniature" screw, not just a screw, making it a terribly unlikely candidate.
A real purist would probably need to get some bronze rod stock and a machinist with low hourly rates. Or, just buy a small lathe, the kind the size of a sewing machine, and make 'em the old fashioned way.
|05-23-2007 08:11 PM|
Checked that site a while back, and much of the different fasteners aren't available in silicon bronze.. like the one's Due is looking for aren't available in anything but galvanized steel.
|05-23-2007 08:07 PM|
What about silicon bronze screws?
** AARON'S SILICON BRONZE FASTENERS, bolts, nuts, washers **
|05-23-2007 05:35 PM|
|JohnRPollard||I and others have searched for them in the past without success (though internet search engines have matured quite a bit since then). In the end, I concluded that the original manufacturer of the portlights (Whitewater) would have used bronze rather than brass machine screws had they been readily available. I replaced with the same brass and insulated them from the sash with loctite. If you discover a source of bronze machine screws please post to the PSC website.|
|05-23-2007 05:27 PM|
Anyone know where to find bronze machine screws (5-40 3/8 flat)? Neither Jamestown nor Mcmaster has them.
|05-22-2007 07:54 PM|
Hellosailor, comparing only 3/16th material, ( this is my frame size ) the tempered is equivalent to what you would find in a driver or passenger door window ( DOT std 615 )
my windows are small, ranging from 8x21 down to 4x17 so that added to the rating, it would take a hufty blown to break the window
But, like I said, I did the whole vs thing when I replaced them and it came down to MR-10 vs tempered and the final factor was scatches and cost, tempered was less expensive and is/will be more readily available if needed
|05-22-2007 05:29 PM|
Pappy, MR-10 aka "Margard" is indeed scratch-resistant--but sometimes on one side only. Scratch-resistance is a relative thing, any glazing manufacturer should be able to give you comparison figures or even send out a sample piece.
What kind of tempered glass did you get that is stronger than polycarbonate? Or are you comparing inch-thick tempered glass to 1/16" thick low-grade polycarbonate?
|05-22-2007 05:23 PM|
|sailingdog||BTW, if you're looking for a cheap source for plexiglass or polycarbonate, it is not a bad idea to go and talk to a commercial sign supply company. That's where I got my 3/8" lexan for my new dropboards...and it was relatively cheap.|
|05-22-2007 04:54 PM|
Originally Posted by sailingdog
I think the guys @ the PSC site are confusing tempered, lami and dual glazed, lami is the only one I know that has a film, temp does not and dual is a air space sandwiched by two panes of tempered.
|05-22-2007 04:38 PM|
What ever you do, don't use brass fasteners on a boat, especially on one that is on salt water.... the brass will de-zincify and then you will lose your ports. I would go with silicon bronze fasteners if the ports themselves are bronze, as you'll have the least problems with galvanic corrosion between the fasteners and the ports.
Both plexiglass (acrylic) and lexan (polycarbonate) will work for ports, but the Lexan will be far stronger. You need to make sure you get Lexan with a UV-protective coating and preferably a scratch resistant coating as well.
What you bed them with may depend on whether you go with plastic (acrylic or polycarbonate) or glass. Polysulfide-based sealants will attack lexan or plexiglass, polyureathane-based ones will not. I would bed them with 3M 4200... since it is very likely that you will have to replace them at some point in the future.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|