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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-24-2007 08:12 AM
Gary M Thanks Cam I missed that, of course I was supposed to be working at the time and only had a quick look.

08-23-2007 10:07 PM
landlockvasailor I now starting on a O'Day 22 recovery on a trailer. In the past my wife and I did a Morgan 416, a Morgan 300 and a Westerly Cirus. I was told after screwing up the Westerly with a hand paint job, to find out if the area, freeboards, decks..anything fiberglass could be brought back by a four step decison, if I could not afford a professional job. 1. Start with the stern, it is the easiest. 2. Don't paint until you wet sand, it don't matter the color, since if it don't work, you are going to paint it anyway, but I save big bucks on a Navy freeboards as well as just gel. 3. Lay on the wax, a professional wax, not off the rack. Go to a boat yard and find the old cans in the trash used for the most expensive boat on the hard. 4. If you like the results, great. If no, then paint away.

The guys I hung with in yards told me many times, it was a waste of money to paint some boats. Those that needed it were apparent. Besides, as one said, everyone wants a bigger boat, someday. Save the $$ for equipment that you can pull off and transplant on the next boat. If you don't do a professional job, a bush and roller in two years will need the same again.
08-23-2007 08:43 PM
camaraderie Actually the website has complete instructions for doing an aluminum mast. Quite lot of prep involved. Here:
08-23-2007 06:05 PM
sailingdog Gary-

I am pretty sure that Interlux Perfection should be fine on an aluminum spar. You will probably need to coat the aluminum with a good primer before applying the paint.
08-23-2007 03:14 PM
Gary M Mike do you know if Interlux Perfection can be used on a mast ? I am painting mine this fall. I checked their web site and it does not say. I can contact Inyerlux directly.

I was thinking of using Awlgrip since it definately can be used on aluminium.

08-23-2007 03:08 PM
NOLAsailing Great video, Mayjane, and nice job on the boat too.

Quote of the day (from the song):

"If it aint broke, don't use it."
08-23-2007 03:01 PM
mikehoyt Interlux Perfection (formerly Interthane Plus) is very easy to use for a DIY application as it is designed for roll/tip or spray. My deck/coackroof was sprayed with Interthane Plus 5 yrs ago and has held up well. If just doing part then think about the non skid areas. Much like flat paint vs gloss is very forgiving. You can then tape off that section and do the rest later.

I have been old Awlgrip is very difficult to touch up but have had no experience with that. OTOH I have used Interlux one part Brightsides to touch up any areas where I do repairs on my deck with outstanding results. Also you can choose the same colour in Brightsides and Perfection (I use Off-White).

The one part levels better but the two part lasts longer. I would use 2 part. Around the toerail you could probably put the paint right up to toerail and then apply a bead of 4200 or something to cover the edge of the paint - much like 1/4 round when laying flooring at home or silicon around a tub edge when laying linoleum in a bathroom. Everything else should be removed.

As for one part now - two part later. Is not a problem if you do the prep work properly. Interlux two part primer is designed to protect "unknown" paint from the harsh two part paint being applied over top. As our boat had a failing unknown paint on the deck I sanded, sanded and sanded some more and then primer coat and two part paint. Have experienced no problems in 5 years.

The painting is the easy part - it is the fixture removal and prep work that takes the time. Also - when removing windows you will discover the joys of butyl rubber. When people tells you it does not harden they are correct. It also gets into everything and you spend half your day getting trace amounts off the deck that you wish to paint!

Good luck

08-23-2007 01:43 PM
maryjane41 Dear Bret,
I painted my entire boat, deck, non-skid, freeboard and below waterline. I removed all hardware and teak. I used one-part polyurethane and the roll and tip method, as recommended by Don Casey. (I studied his books for months before.) I buffed with rubbing compound before waxing. The results, while not professional, are beautiful. Everyone comments on it. If I had it to do over, I would have used 2 part paint for the durability, as my paint is starting to chip a little bit after two years on the water. However, the touch-ups are quite simple with one-part, so I'm not too disappointed.

Don't start the job until you have the time to complete it. Doing it in parts will not produce nice results. You need to keep a wet edge. You need two people who are willing to work for beer (AFTER the job is done) ..

For our project please go to and enter: Abigail Susan.

Maryjane in MN
08-18-2007 02:49 PM

Removing the toerail can lead to warpage of the hull-to-deck join and can make it impossible to get the toerail back on. It depends on the type of joint, but most things I have read recommend removing and replacing the toerail in sections. At the boatyard where I winter over, the pro painter does Awlgrip deck and hulls all the time and he never removes the toerail even though all other deck hardware including ports comes off. Yes, edges are where the problems start, but you have to draw the line somewhere, and the toerail is an excellent place to do it. Also, you can indeed do the deck in parts. In fact, you will mostly have to, in order to maintain a single wet edge. But even if you let the paint kick between areas, if you choose your lines to coincide with the lines made by non-skid patches you can blend sections together. I recommend getting one of Don Casey's books, which have very thorough and specific directions (and important precautions) for achieving professional looking results with two-part paints. There are many things you need to know to make a two part paint job look good. Fortunately, people have figured it out and written the book for you.
08-18-2007 01:58 PM
sailaway21 Removing as much hardware as possible will be a key factor in the longevity of your paint job. Hardware left in place, including the toe rail, is where the breakdown of your coating will start; on the edges. If you use a two part paint the hardware will also be an impediment to doing the job as the paint dries extremely quickly, leaving little time for 'cutting in' deck fittings. This is one of the reasons that some elect to use a single part paint, accepting it's shorter lifespan.

I would not be concerned with warping of the toe rail, unless you're the type to start a project and then forget about it for a year or so.

I would approach the project as a major one, allowing time for removal and rebedding of all deck hardware. While you do not state the age of your boat, all boats will need their hardware rebedded at some point in time. There can be no better time for a thoroughly done job of this than prior to the painting of the deck.

In the meantime, I would avoid any quick fix paint jobs designed to improve the appearance of your deck. Many's the restorer who has lamented the fact that, had nothing half-way been done previously, the job of re-finishing would have been much easier. Sail the boat as is until you are ready to do the job right. Bear in mind that most are envious that you are sailing while they do not even own a boat, much less even a project boat. It is quite amazing how little deck appearance effects sailing performance.(g) You'll have enough off water time when you decide to do the job to not want to extend the project longer than necessary.
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