|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-27-2007 12:52 PM|
Interestingly, my wife is five foot tall, and I rigged it that way so she could sheet in by pulling down like it was a halyard, rather than by pulling up by bracing her legs. You cleat by holding your arms up at the end of the pull.
I'll try to get a picture. It's not as weird as it sounds.
|08-27-2007 12:47 PM|
My last boat had a cabin top traveller and a tiller and mid-boom sheeting. I could steer with my legs and adjust the main sheet and the traveller at the same time. The only issue was that as an old boat, it had a lid-type hatch rather than a "turtle": This made adjusting with the hatch closed a PITA, because the natural place for the spare line to go was "down the hole".
Neither of my boats has a boom vang, but I still know how to use a Cunningham.
|08-27-2007 12:43 PM|
|sailingdog||Umm... I have a different manufacturer's version of that block as my mainsheet tackle's lower end... and there's no way I could use it at the upper end, since the boom is over six feet above the cockpit floor, and I'm 5' 4"..|
|08-27-2007 12:41 PM|
|08-27-2007 02:28 AM|
I don't think this would work on a lot of boats. The upper purchase block is often at the boom, and far above your head and normal range of motion. At least that is the way it is on my boat. If I had to reach up that high to cleat off the main sheet...it would never get cleated.
Originally Posted by Valiente View Post
|08-27-2007 02:26 AM|
This is not a boom vang. The boom vang is attached to the boom further forward and goes to a point on the mast, and is used to control how high the boom lifts when it is let out for reaching and running. All you've got is a mainsheet—no more, no less.
Often, the cam cleat setup can be reversed, so that instead of pulling down to uncleat, you can pull up to uncleat. Usually, two or four screws have to be removed to do this.
Another option is to change the angle the cleat mounting plate is at, to give you more clearance. Again, this is usually done by removing several screws and then making the adjustment and then replacing the screws.
Personally, I think that the mainsheet should be pulled up to release, since it is generally easier to pull it upwards to free it, than it is to pull it downwards to do so.. and generally the main sheet can be freed from more angles and at a greater distance than if you have to pull down.
If the block is such that you can't modify the way it works, you can always buy another block that does. This block is upside down for the application you'd have... but you can see that it would release upwards. From this website.
|08-27-2007 02:22 AM|
|Valiente||Invert the main sheet purchase, by which I mean make the lower block the upper block. Then you can cleat off with an upward motion. I have this on my boat, because the binnacle gets in the way otherwise and it's handy.|
|08-27-2007 01:54 AM|
BV and Main Sheet Block
I have a P10M. The Mainsheet and Boom Vang are one unit. Basically the main sheet attaches to the end of the boom through two blocks. The bottom block attaches to the traveler, on a track on the bridge deck in the cockpit. Great for single heanding.
There is really no boom vang, but when close hauled, when the sheet is all in, the boom can be even further pulled down by tighening the sheet even more.
My issue is this, I find it hard to uncleat the mainsheet in the cleat on the lower block.
The cleat is up, meaning to cleat it, I pull the line UP from the pulley. To Uncleat I have to pull it down, which difficult because the amount of distance that I need to get it out easily is lower than the Bridgedeck is. Reaching down is awkward as I often have to take my eyes off the course and hands off the wheel to unlceat. Obvisiously not the most safe scenario.
Boat is fairly new to me, so maybe I just need practice. Anyone have other ideas?