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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-04-2007 04:27 AM
Rockter By "out of range" you mean into the red on the gauge?

Flush one more time and I think it might solve it.

Warm the motor first and it'll help the reaction a bit.
09-03-2007 11:13 PM
groundhog Oh, I also cleaned off the barnacles from my prop at the same time (see my entry on the "cleaning prop" post.

But this action probably reduced load on my engine.

09-03-2007 11:11 PM
groundhog Ok. Here's the update.

Got the Barnacle buster concentrate last week. Rushed down to the boat Friday and mixed up a gallon and sucked it into the engine cooling system.

Let it sit overnight.

The stuff appears like windex. Light blue and clear.

The next day, I started the engine back up and the stuff that came out the back of the boat was chalky looking.

Before, the boat overheated on just about any throttle up.
Now, the temperature gauge needle only rises out of range on very high throttle settings. A significant increase.

It took my boat from almost unusable to having an almost unnoticable problem.

I still need to flush it once more. I will also try to pull the plugs on the cooling ports of the engine (volvo MD6A) at some point.

I should have enough concentrate left at the end for 2-2.5 gallons if anyone wants to buy it from me.

08-28-2007 02:32 PM
Originally Posted by groundhog View Post
By the way,
I purchased the 5:1 concentrated 1 gallon version of Barnacle Buster rather than buy 2 gallons and pay shipping. I will have enough to make about 3 gallons after I am done. If anyone wants it, let me know. one gal is like $23 and the concentrate is like $66 new.
Be sure to tell how it worked, hopefully the same results as me
08-28-2007 01:50 PM
groundhog By the way,
I purchased the 5:1 concentrated 1 gallon version of Barnacle Buster rather than buy 2 gallons and pay shipping. I will have enough to make about 3 gallons after I am done. If anyone wants it, let me know. one gal is like $23 and the concentrate is like $66 new.
08-28-2007 07:09 AM
Rockter Oh, and the Beta turns the prop the other way, so I'd need a new prop.
08-28-2007 07:09 AM
Rockter It was the 40 hp Beta (Kubota) I was looking at.

It looks a good 'un.
08-28-2007 01:31 AM
groundhog Wow, you might want to machine your own manifold for those prices.

FYI: I saw pricing on a new Volvo today...
Don't know what a D1-13 is, but it is a 13hp diesel for $8450.

Beta BZ482 13.5 HP Diesel w/2:1 Technodrive $5,945
Can't remember where I found this beta price, but have it in my notes.

08-28-2007 12:59 AM
Rockter Groundhog...

The thermostat you need to have is the one designed for raw water cooling. There are two thermostat models available, the second one for those owners that have a heat exchanger.... they run hotter. Salt water really scales aggressively at higher temperatures, as a bunch of dissolved salts come out of solution at the higher temperatures, so it needs to be run cooler.

I think you might have the wrong thermostat in there. Pls check the part number. It should be on the packet and on the thermostat. failing that, simply test it with a thermometer.

The thermostat is constantly cycling, as when it opens there is a rapid cooling, and then it shuts again. It's quite a crude animal, but it works ok. Problems start when it sticks open... and you overcool.... or it sticks shut...... then you boil up. I'd sooner have the overcooling mode... stuck open.

It's a very tough motor, very well built, and very heavy. Shame they absolutely savage us for spare parts though. My next motor will be the Japanese Kubota, not because of lack of Volvo quality, but because of the astronomic costs of the spare parts, costs that just about write off the motor if you break something major, and I have. Ten years ago, they wanted £1330 for the exhaust manifold (close to $2600 at todays exchange rate). The motor was 20 years old at that moment. A manifold for the Lister Petter was £185.

Good luck.
08-27-2007 09:34 PM
groundhog Just checked..
Cooling temp is listed as 75-85 C in the MD6A handbook.
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