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Cal 21 Owners

47K views 140 replies 23 participants last post by  Arcb 
#1 ·
Doesn't seem like there are too many of us running around on the internets. She doesn't seem to have as big of a following as the other Cal boats, but I'm sure that's just due to the limited production run.

Curious if anyone knows of a email group or something similar for Cal 21 owners? Or, if none exists if anyone would be interested in starting one with me?
 
#82 · (Edited)
That steel rod that I mentioned, and should show in both my sketch and the drawing that my Dad made of our keel-plug, is what keeps the keel plug fro mriding up. The plug is also prevented fro mriding up by the shape of hte plug.... if you look at the shape of the CAL 21 keel well from below, you will note that the forward end of the large hole in the has a recess if I recall to allow the ballast bulb to clear the forward end of the cockpit opening, and the keel plug sits up in that notch.... (now, understand..... I'm relying on my memory here!!) and that stops the plug from rising up and the steel rod stops it from dropping down (Originally a length of bungee cord held the plug in position there (lead from top of keel plug to underside of the cover over the top of the cockpit opening, but that did not have enough pull to hold the plug into the slot, so the steel rod was substituted). I'll try to sketch how this all works.... I really wish that I still had a CAL 21 to take a picture of (would need to do this hauled out..... might need to lift her to lower the keel and insert the plug to really explain what I mean?)

One note, in the drawing below, there are 2 different angles shown for the metal plate at the forward end of the keel plug, I believe the 60 deg figure is the correct one.
 
#83 ·
Thanks Rod, I already cut the angle at 45 degrees. Hope it doesn't throw the length off if I trim to 60 degrees. Wish it wasn't so expensive to have it lifted high enough to drop the keel for a close look. May have to just bite the bullet. Guess I can always add a little stock at the aft end of the plug. Getting close. Any comments about the taper of the plug?
 
#85 ·
Alas, I feel like such a lazy sailor bum:eek: Have been sailing off a dock since beginning of June or so. Weather was finally turning and the river was calling so I hitched her up and drove down to my friendly marina:) Explained that I wanted the boat lifted high enough to drop the keel out. They didn't seem to want to put her on jacks so they lifted her higher in the slings. They took over and sledged the keel bolt out.:eek: But the keel was wedged in and didn't want to come out. Time seemed to be becoming an issue and the keel trunk was moving too much for my comfort so we jointly decided that everything was "probably" OK and managed to line up the bolt hole in the keel with that in the trunk and eventually hammered the bolt back through. Dropped her in the water, crossed fingers, and had a short conversation with Neptune. :rolleyes:
It's about a 20 minute motor out the Rondout to the Hudson, and then enough river to enjoy sailing. Have enjoyed different conditions, but think I like 10 mph breeze in same direction as tide. Bumping around in waves makes my mind turn to the stories I have read about lost keels :eek:
Definitely have a plan to examine the total keel at some point, but truth be told I'd rather sail than work on boats when the weather is right. ;)
As a final note, I am getting used to her tenderness. Still lots of things needed to make her sail better. This fall I should have everything needed to release the wire from the keel, but then I may need a sea anchor to slow her down!:D
 
#86 · (Edited)
Olin.
on our 1970 model the plywood was more like 5/8" and consisted of a 6-8" plank across the top that backed up the hull-deck joint across the top of the transom and also the bolts for the top pintle and hte backstay chainplate. Then there was another piece sized to back up the bolts for the outboard bracket, and one more smaller piece located to back up the bolts for the lower pintle. The plywood used was plenty strong enough for the job, as ours never gave us any trouble over 38 years. This is actually a quite normal design/construction for sailboat transoms, only using plywood in hte localized areas of need. I've attached the best picture of the area that I have, doesn't show it too well, but...!

I guess that I could include one very scary observation though......... I never did find ANY evidence that the backstay chainplate was through bolted! As far as I can tell (and Richard Fuller, owner of the old CAL 21 web-site) said the same. It appears to have used wood screws? but they must have been short ones? Well, whatever, it never loosened up in the 38 years we owned NODROG.
 
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#88 ·
Hey! I am glad to see that this forum is still up and running strong. Since my last post (some time ago), I have relocated to Australia and gifted my Cal21 to my brother. He is planning on adding bulkheads that were previous removed. Does any one have a good photo of the bulkheads running across the midsection and aft? There is quite a bit of flex in the hull. We rebuilt the v-berth so there is structure in the bow. I know what we took out was not the "original" outfitting.
 
#89 · (Edited)
I'll see what I have, I know I don't have dimensions..... but plenty of pics! (38 years of CAL 21 ownership wil ldo that I guess?) However, not all of thse are our old boat. OK, none are.....
I'll post more soon! (hopefully I'll find some of our boat.)
 
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#91 ·
I've attached pictures of the forward bulkhead and three of the aft bulkhead. I didn't keep the aft bulkhead for a template so I can't tell you the dimensions.

I hope someone on here can state the length of the top of the aft bulkhead so I can make a template out of cardboard.
 

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#94 ·
Hullo!

My wife and I recently purchased a 1968 Cal 21, and I was hoping there still might be some seasoned (or salty) Cal vets still hanging around to answer some of the more specific questions.

Firstly how the outhaul, downhaul/Cunningham was set up. Our boom doesn't seem to have much in the way of adjustable outhaul or any place for a downhaul.

Thanks for reading
 
#95 ·
Well, as a former co-owner of a 1970 CAL 21 (family boat from 1970-2008) I guess I qualify for the seasoned definition <GRIN!>

Outhaul, not fancy (as factory setup) here is the way the Owner's Manual describes it: (line was about 1/8" Dacron braid, 3/16" might be better)
. Rig Outhaul line: Tie to forward hole on boom end, run through clew, back through aft hole, back to clew and around Boom.

1) Tighten foot of sail enough to remove wrinkles.

2) Tie tight around Boom.


We later modified ours to be more like what I now have on my O'DAY Day Sailer, although we skipped the block attached to the clew an just ran the outhaul line through the clew grommet. I'l lattach a copy of the drawing of my Day Sailer setup)

The downhaul was also not fancy on the CAL 21, the line ties or is shackled to the eye on the gooseneck slider and then tied off on the cleat below on the aft side of the mast. (see pic below of gooseneck) The luff of our main did not stretch, so we just used the halyard to tighten the luff, our halyards were original setup of half cable/half rope.

Any more questions? Just let me know! However, be forewarned...... I have 38 years worth of CAL 21 stories!
 

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#96 ·
Welp just typed out a big long message, but pressed back and lost it all, so I'll just ask if you have any pictures of your jib set up handy? It would most likely answer most of my questions.

But I would like to say thank you for your time, I really appreciate it. This is our first boat and we are a bit lost with some of the finer points :)
 
#97 ·
What aspect of the jib setup? I may or may not have pictures of the factory rigging, we installed roller-furling when we replaced our sails in 1993. The original setup is pretty simple and I could sketch a layout of it if that helps.

Here is the Owners Manual description of the process of hoisting the jib:
1. JIB

a. Fasten TACK to middle hole in stem head. (we always used the aftmost hole, used a shackle)

b. Hank Jib on to Jibstay.

c. Attach Jib Halyard to Head of Sail.

d. Splice or tie in sheets to CLEW. These can be left permanently attached to the jib.

e. Lead sheets "outboard" of the stays then through the fairleads on the tracks on the cockpit coamings and tie figure-eight knots in the bitter ends.


The jib halyard has a funny looking fitting where the cable part joins the rope part, there is a good explanation earlier on this forum about that.
 
#98 ·
Right! Ok great sounds like we have most of it down, we are missing the fair leads, but the C rails are there. As for the tack on the jib, how high off the deck did you tie it? If we haul the halyard in to the top of the rig, the sail is quite high off the deck, or is this normal?

Another aside, our mainsail has two pulley wheels sewn right in, and I have no idea what they are for.

Thanks again !
 
#99 ·
As for the tack on the jib, how high off the deck did you tie it?
Actually never mind, after re-reading I realized you said to shackle the tack right to the stem head. My reading comprehension needs some work.

There is also two of those blocks on springs - not sure what they are called - attached to the outside of the cockpit right at the aft end. Looking at pictures of other boats I have yet to see this set up. I'll take some pictures tomorrow. Puzzling.

I'm guessing I'm going to need to buy all of the jib sheet lead hardware, as the tracks are there but no cars :/
Any suggestions on what to look for would be great.

Thank you again :D
 
#100 ·
The 2 blocks near the stern are for the main sheet, I'll try to post a drawing of that rigging.
The 2 pulleys sewn into the sail maybe for a reefing setup if they are about 18-24" above the foot (bottom) of the sail and are located at the leading edge (luff) and trailing edge (Leech).

The jib fairleads may be a problem replacing, since Jensen Marine (CAL) used a t-track that is narrower and thicker than what is used now. Several CAL owners (all models) have noted this when upgrading/replacing hardware. You mentioned something about "C-track" so maybe yours have been upgraded already?
A good used sailboat parts dealer or marine consignment shop might have some used fairleads that fit.
Steve Seals Spars in California might also be worth checking with, Steve Seals was a rigger at Jensen Marine (CAL) and now sells replacement spars and fittings for some of the older CALs. I doubt he would have any original jib fairleads, but might have ideas. (Seal's Spars and Rigging is their web site I think).
 

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#102 ·
I can't actually post the picture in link form so I guess just copy and paste my link? I put a space in so the forum won't pick up that its a url?

ht tps://goo.gl/photos/mosLwapPJxF5SqAK7

Hopefully that works.

You can see the main sheet as well. I haven't seen any other boats with blocks in these positions. But then again I haven't seen that many boats either. :p
 
#104 ·
Hello Everyone, I am new to this forum and I apologize for asking questions that are probably already answered in the hundreds of posts on here. I am in crunch time with making a decision on buying a 73 Cal21. I have been trying to find any info I can on the Cal21's. I greatly appreciate any info you can provide me. Currently my biggest question is, can you sail it at all with the keel retracted or will any amount of wind knock it down or performance would be so horrible that it is not practical for 1/4 mile transit over shoals. Thank you!!
 
#105 · (Edited)
Really you should only sail the CAL 21 with the keel down and locked. In light airs the boat might be stable enough even with the keel all the way up, but without the keel sticking out you have no directional control (Boat becomes a saucer on hte water with nothing to stop leeway) also, you will need the rudder for steering and it extends down a couple of feet anyway, negating the "advantage" of having the keel retracted (draft about 10").
The CAL 21 was designed so that when you get her in hte water, you lower the keel into position, insert the locking bolt, remove the cable from the keel, insert the keel plug, cover the opening in the cockpit, and sail off in a "semi-fixed" keel boat. If you need to transit a 1/4 mile shoal area (less than 5' of water, boat draws 4'3" keel down) to get out to where you will be sailing, then perhaps the CAL 21 is not the boat for you. You might be better off with a keel/centerboard boat, like an O'DAY 222 or 192 (or O'DAY 20, Precision 21, Quickstep 21, Precision 18, Starwind 19) or a shoal-keel boat like the O'DAY 22 (1'11" draft) or one of the other boats with a shallow wing-keel. There are various centerboard designs too, (O'DAY or Stuart Mariner, O'DAY 19, Sanibel 18). Some of the other retractable-keel boats like the MacGregor-Venture line (17. 21, 22, 24, 25) or the Balboa 20, Ensenada 20, Catalina 22, Santana 21 could be easier to get over that shoal, their keels still are intended to be locked down while sailing, but most still expose enough keel to aid steering with it retracted, although I would still be careful and might still suggest powering until past the shoal.

Alternatively, you could launch the CAL 21, lower the keel part way (about 1/4 to 1/3 down) to provide some control, attach rudder if keel is deeper than rudder, otherwise carefully steer using outboard as you power out beyond that shoal. Once out past the shoal, stop, lower anchor, and then lower the keel down and lock it. Go sailing! Then on the way back in, stop before the shoal and raise keel partway and power back to the ramp. One downside is that it is a LOT easier lowering/raising the keel at dockside than while anchored, especially if you would then be near any waves (or powerboat action) as calm water is very much desired for the operation, specially inserting/removing the locking bolt. Sailing without the locking bolt would not be wise, as the keel will tend to swing a bit fore and aft, and I'm not sure how well the keel plug could be used, thereby allowing water to surge in and out of the cockpit opening of the keel well while sailing, making sailing with dry feet a bit hard.

One final option would be to get a mooring out past the shoal and keep the keel down and locked for the season. That was what we did for the 38 years we had our CAL 21. It had been our intention to keep the boat moored in the cove in front of our house, but it turned out the water wasn't deep enough there, so we rented a mooring at a nearby boatyard which worked OK for us.

I am a tremendous fan of the CAL 21 and can recommend her highly, but I also recognize that she isn't the right boat for everyone. Right now, my sailing budget would not allow renting a boatyard mooring and I've grown too attached to keeping my present boat (1979 O'DAY Day Sailer II) in the cove in front of our family cottage...... so, if I ever realize my dream of a larger boat.... sadly, she won't be a CAL 21.
 
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#107 ·
hey all. I bought a Cal 21 a few years back, and it required a lot of work in the cabin... the issue I'm trying to fix now is finding a replacement for the top pintle, which has been broken off, but also the rudder gudgeons are missing. would it be worthwhile to just buy a set of medium duty pintles and gudgeons and give up on replacing the three missing pieces? what size hardware should I be looking for?
 
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