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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-09-2009 02:36 PM
DropTop I put water purification tablets (the kind used when hiking or camping) in my poly tank every time I refill it. I normally use about 60-70% of the dose they reccomend for the # of gallons I fill because I carry bottled water for drinking and only use the house water for cooking (boiling water only) or washing hands / brushing teeth. I have not yet had any cases of slime or odor in the water yet.
09-07-2009 09:51 PM
People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated
city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.
quoted from here
09-07-2009 09:46 PM
scottyt according to peggy hall a stronger but short dose of bleach is okay for AL tanks. she said its no different that years of low dose from public water.

i have a fiber glass tank and i gave it a real strong ( like 1 gallon to 36 of water ) does over night to kill it all then drained and refilled with fresh several times.

i had clear slime, not black. it did come back very slightly but sense i am now using the tank a lot more its not a problem. i know in the navy ( subs ) our tanks had clear slime and they tasted okay, when/if it got cleaned out the water tasted terrible for a few months
09-07-2009 07:40 PM
Volkhard Interesting topic with lots of information. But, what needs to be done to keep a system fresh that is outfitted with an unaccessible Aluminum tank? For what I Know, bleach is out of the question .... I haven't developed any slime or odors but I am concerned and want to do a preemptive strike BEVOR the problems manifests itself ...
I hope, I am not hijacking the threat. I assume I am not the only Aluminum tank boat-owner following this threat with interest.
09-07-2009 02:03 PM
RIGMAN60 Poly Pipe As A Replacement For Fresh Water System (galley) Existing Braided Hose? Brand,ease Of Use? Feeding Bending Fittings /
11-11-2002 10:54 AM
Fresh water tank slime

Well I think the Blob has been tamed. I used the agressive bleach approach and flushed all the lines. I think the bugger was living in the hot water lines, at least that produced the most crud after the bleach sat for awhile. I also removed and cleaned all the aerators, mucho crud. So at least for now the good guys have won. Will monitor closely for any reappearance, and many thanks to all for their time and suggestions.

Has anyone else tried the hydrogen peroxide for maintence? It would taste better than chlorine!

11-09-2002 05:46 PM
Fresh water tank slime

Our research indicates that Hydrogen Peroxide, the cheap stuff sold at all stores, will or shold keep the water in the tank free from bacteria, and not harn you if you ingest it. I am not sure of the mixture. I believe its one teaspoon per gallon. I''ve used it in my tanks and have not had any problem at all.
10-18-2002 10:05 AM
Fresh water tank slime

I wonder if white vinegar would work for your problem.

10-17-2002 03:23 PM
Fresh water tank slime

Hmmmm. Lots to work on. I planned to remove the two tanks, bow and starboard, to clean them. Will check the hoses as well. The slime I have is clear to milky. I h aven''t seen any black or brown. Rich, thanks for taking the time for such a detailed response!

10-16-2002 03:01 PM
Fresh water tank slime

This is a phenomenom of ''chemical equilibrium'' meaning if the carbon is ''hungry'' for molecules/iond and those molecules/ions are present in the system (even if not flowing) these molecules (in this case chlorine ions) will migrate and affix to the surface of the carbon. What happens is that the carbon will remove the Chlorine from the system and leave NO chlorine in the system to ''stun'' any remaining bacteria, spores, etc.
sooooooo even if the water isnt flowing, the ions ARE flowing and in this case TO the carbon filter. The only way to prevent this ionic migration is to shut the valves on the carbon filter each time you use it.

Its not a big problem in a household system as enough chlorine will constantly migrate in from the system supply even if the supply is non flowing. ..... but on closed system such as a boat, there no replentishment possible except for continually dumping more Chlorine into the tank.

I''m deeply involved in water systems and especially filtration. Why I DO NOT have (ANY) filters installed on my boat''s water system are: 1. Trapped bacteria, molds, etc. on a filter eventually dies and the accumulated (now highly concentrated!) cell debris (endotoxins) can release from the filter and reenter the system ... gives you FEVER, etc. A filter concentrates the bacteria. 2. Many bacteria THRIVE on carbon as they use it as part of their nutrient source (consider that most of YOUR food is also carbon based... and what your cells eat is essentialy: glucose).... long term, bacteria will even ''eat'' the carbon from steel pipes, etc. , etc. (.... thats probablly how metal ores were formed in the earth.... bacteria ate away the carbon).
The data sources are limitless ... just do a websearch for "USP water", "Water for Injection" (WFI water), "validation of water systems" etc. etc. From these searches you will find zillions of sources and documentation (including US-FDA regulations) of purity water systems.

Just be aware that the stagnant water system on a boat is VERY close to a bacteria, etc. incubator - non-moving, dark, warm, .... so in my mind why would I want to also supply food (carbon) to enhance cell growth !!!!!

A good ''starter'' reference would be "Pure Water Handbook", Osmonics Corporation. 2ed. 1997 (paperback) ph: 612-933-2277 ($10). But the handbook DOESNT cover "stagnant" systems.
However, current ''bottled'' water specs. would probably apply as the "bottle" on my boat is 120 gallons.

hope this helps.
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