|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-14-2012 09:22 PM|
Re: Ancor Terminals: the must haves
Old thread but it's covering different places to purchase terminals..
I wanted to add that McMaster has a whole selection covering heat shrink, adhesive heat shrink, and some that have solder built in (I'm not familiar with these). McMaster is fantastic and makes finding what you're looking for very easy.
|10-26-2007 01:26 PM|
|geary126||Hey, so I don't have the link, but the crimp vs. solder debate has raged elsewhere on the board. Bottom line, argued by dozens, was that crimps are better on a boat. somebody, maybe don casey, did resistance testing on a variety of connections, and interestingly, made a case for crimp + brush on liquid heat shrink.|
|10-26-2007 10:24 AM|
|sailingdog||A properly crimped connection actually has a fair amount of physical strength. Soldering a connection properly is not something most people can do consistently. Soldering also introduces galvanic corrosion issues, due to the different metals involved in a soldered join. Overall, it is far faster, safer and easier for most people to make a decent crimped connection, than it is for them to solder the wires.|
|10-26-2007 10:10 AM|
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
The ABYC reads as follows:
SD, I don't want to sound like a ***** and this argument wasn't directed at you. I'd like to thank you for that reference, however, from my experience people don't like to solder connections because it is too time consuming, and a lot of the time they don't do it right. Not enough flux, too much solder, overheat the wire, in which case I agree that the crimped connection is simple, easy, and usually does the job. But to say that soldering is bad on boats just seems like a blanket statement that isn't correct.
|10-26-2007 12:47 AM|
You really shouldn't solder most connections on a boat. The problem with soldering a connection, is the solder causes the wire to become more rigid, and the connection is more subject to fatigue failure. Also, a soldered only connection can fail under a high load—which is why the ABYC specifications say that all electrical connections must be mechanically fastened, even if they are soldered.
As for tools... cheap tools are generally far more expensive than good tools. Getting the right tool for the job is generally the best plan—both financially and in terms of frustration...
Originally Posted by zz4gta View Post
|10-25-2007 02:30 PM|
I've used some harbor freight stuff and its all worked pretty well. But for important / tough jobs, I go with a good name brand made in the USA w/ a lifetime no hassle warranty. If I break it, I don't want to explain how I broke it or mail it in w/ an explanation and wait a week for a replacement. I want a new tool now to finish the job.
As for the original poster, I didn't see anyone recommend this, but my experience from working on race cars (extreme vibration) is that the only connection you can count on is soldering.
Some people may say a proper crimp is sufficient with shrink wrap That's nice, but a correct soldering of 2 wires is permanent and stronger than the wire itself. When I wire my boat this winter, all terminals will be soldered and shrink wrapped. And I'll be damned if I'll have an electrical issue. With as much motion as a boat has, I'm surprised no one suggested this. The only downside, most soldering irons req. 120v but they do make gas powered and some battery powered options.
Edit: Do you need a pair of $50 crimpers, no, you can still get a good crimp w/ the cheapos. Do they make your job A LOT easier, hell yes. And even a cheap pair of strippers saves a lot of time over using a razor or knife.
|10-25-2007 01:11 PM|
Originally Posted by dougyoung View Post
I would be grateful for feedback from any HF customers..
|10-25-2007 12:28 PM|
I really like the adhesive lined heat shrink connectors because I consider a crimped connector as highly subject to corrosion and encapsulating it slows that process. I use the ratchet type Ancor crimper and although it makes a very secure crimp, it's still only a mechanical connection and the space around the connection makes it subject to corrosion. For big connections (like battery cables), I crimp, solder and then cover in adhesive lined shrink wrap tubing
Here's a place to get supplies for less than West marine. Once you find a cheaper source for the supplies, it doesn't seem so bad to go the extra mile.
|10-24-2007 09:08 PM|
No I have not, and at $12 per 9 feet I do not anticipate the pleasure occuring soon!
The reason I rec. Scotch 88 is that it is the best electrical tape I've found, it even works in the cold, and it is "reasonably priced" at about $5 per roll. Compared to hardware store tape at a buck a roll it is pricey but then, unlike the hardware store tape, it works!
|10-24-2007 04:54 AM|
Originally Posted by sailaway21 View Post
I did buy a roll of the stuff a while back (it's around here somewhere), but find it is too easy to grab the nearest roll of ordinary electrical tape when there's a job to do.
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