SailNet Community - Reply to Topic
Thread: Deck/Hull Leaks Reply to Thread
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Click here to view the posting rules you are bound to when clicking the
'Submit Reply' button below

  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-25-2007 04:00 PM
deck leaks

I have had this problem with my 1983 - 323 and it was not a difficult job to repair.
I am not familiar with other Morgans. What I did with mine was remove the stainless steel rub rail. This is what covers the joint between the deck and haul on my boat. I got a grout cleaning brush from HD and cleaned the joint with the brush, this helped remove any loose old chaulking. I used denatured alcohol to clean the joint for better adhesion. I then used 100% silicon that I purchased from HD and applied this to the entire joint.
I seen no need to remove the teak since this was screwed to the deck and severed no purpose other than for looks. I replaced the screws that held the rub rail with ones that where a 1/4" longer because some of the old ones where not tight.
The caulking material just gave out after 25 years. I only did this to the sections where there were leaks.
10-15-2006 12:07 PM
captlar there is nothing economical about this task. I would experiment with water to try and determine specifically where the leaks are. Chocks, stanchions and stays are often the culprit since they have more forces applied. If you convince yourself that the rail is the problem, the usual task is to lift the rail, rebed and refasten. The leak is usually coming thru bolts holes. The deck/hull joint itself may (hopefully) be fine. I do not know the construction detail of this joint on a Morgan. You should find out how they built the boat and specifically this joint.
I would not replace the teak rail if it is sound. I have also loosened rails without removing completely, rebedded and then set. The condition of the fasteners and your access to them will determine if they are reusable. If you have to remove the rail, replace all the stainless. A boat this age is due for this sort of work. My 78 Bristol has one rail done and one to go - a few small drips when we bury the rail. I use a moisture meter to monitor my decks and Bristols have great access (no liner) so I can see whats up in most locations.
Good luck - big job ! Larry
10-12-2006 04:36 PM
Deck/Hull Leaks

We have a 1980 Morgan 461 that is in excellent condition except for several leak locations that apparently come from the deck/hull joint. What is the most economical fix for this situation? Would removing the teak toe rail, reseal the joint and replacing with s/s or aluminum work?


Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome