SailNet Community - Reply to Topic
Thread: Painting deck - Primer question Reply to Thread
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Click here to view the posting rules you are bound to when clicking the
'Submit Reply' button below

  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-31-2007 09:04 PM
the1much were the "results" after a year, or after he got done painting? lmao
and may the "bullseye" seagull always fly over his boat heh
10-31-2007 08:43 PM
Finallybuyingaboat I saw on another forum where a guy used Benjamin Moore M22 to paint his boat and claimed the results were pretty good, even rolling & Tipping. So, I contacted Benjamin Moore to ask what kind of primer they would recommend for a sailboat and they said they would advise me to paint without a primer! They claim this paint will adhere extremely well to old sanded paint or to sanded fiberglass, so a primer is not required. They did mention using one of their specific cleaners prior to painting. No surprise about painting right on top of the old paint, but even on the areas where I have sanded it all away? That is a bit surprising.
10-31-2007 06:15 PM
the1much jim is right, especially if your going to use the paint, then, sift,or sprinkle way, or if you just paint over the non-skid
10-31-2007 05:52 PM
JimsCAL One problem I've heard of with the anti-skid additive is that if its color is very different from the paint, it will start to show through fairly soon. Use a color close to the paint color if you can.
10-31-2007 04:55 PM
the1much with awl-grip i put on 1 coat of color, then add the non-skid to the next 2 coats, by mixing in with paint then letting it sit ferawhile then stir and paint.
andwhat everyone has said about health is right, awl-grip says you need a pos. press. helmet. i only use a resperator, but then again im not the sharpest tool in the box. and i ALWAYS tell others to use the helmet.
10-31-2007 11:30 AM
Originally Posted by Bardo View Post
Don Casey recommends adding the particulate matter to the primer, so that you will encapsulate the beads with the 2 coats of paint. Everyone concur?
It depends on the addative you use. If you're using sand, I would say follow Casey's advice. If using the intergrip, follow interlux's instructions which is to mix it in the paint, let it set for 20 minutes or so, stir and paint. I wouldn't want a coat of paint over the finish I got. It turned out perfect.

I also agree with the need for proper respirators when spraying 2 part paints. I didn't have pressurized breathing air available when I sprayed my deck, but I did use a high quality respirator for automotive painting with good cartridges. I shot the paint (took about 30 minutes per coat) then left the building. I also used an hvlp gun which put much less paint in the air than a standard sprayer. Those 2 part paints are awesome, but they will kill you.

10-31-2007 11:16 AM
Bardo Don Casey recommends adding the particulate matter to the primer, so that you will encapsulate the beads with the 2 coats of paint. Everyone concur?
10-31-2007 11:15 AM
Bardo I intend to roll and tip the smooth areas, and roll the non-skid areas with beads added. Because the vast majority of the deck is non-skid, I don't think it will take that long once I get her taped up.
10-31-2007 11:10 AM
surftom Be VERY VERY careful what you choose to spray!!
Atomized 2 part poly will give off cyanide gas and KILL! You ned positive pressure breathing gear and need to do it in a proper location.
No kidding! - At the very lest, pick up a copy of Don Casey's buck on friberglass repair/refinishing. It has lots of great info.
10-31-2007 12:04 AM
US27inKS After a 3 year rebuild, I painted my boat last winter. I used interlux perfection on the topsides and deck. The topsides were done using the roll and tip method with excellent results. I decided that the deck was going to be way too much work to roll and tip, so I sprayed. I couldn't be happier with the results. I didn't want a shine on the deck, so I used flattening agent in the paint. It turned out to have a pearl like glow to it. I also didn't sand between coats. On the non skid areas I mixed interlux intergrip into the paint, then sprayed. Really good traction on that stuff. Every time I step on a boat with the factory diamond pattern non skid I feel like I'm going to slip off.

I used an hvlp spray gun from cummins tools. You have to thin the paint more than the can says to get the pattern right, but it's not hard especially if you're not going for a good shine. The guns are only 30 bucks. I bought 2 guns, one for prime and one for paint. I didn't clean the guns when I finished, I just tossed them in the trash. The high dollar thinner from interlux cost almost as much as the gun.

The paint turned out to be hard as rocks. One season of using the boat every weekend has given us just 2 chips. Those chips also came with gel coat attached so I can hardly fault the paint.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome