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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-26-2016 12:46 PM
TQA
Re: Painting deck - Primer question

Zombie thread alert.
08-25-2016 07:53 PM
travlin-easy
Re: Painting deck - Primer question

I never primed anything on the boat, and the slick areas were merely rolled and tipped, and other than a few runs, the finish, after two coats, came out mirror smooth and remain that way after two years.

I used Kiwi Grip for the no skid, and highly recommend it. It looks great, wears like iron, I scrub it a couple times a season with bathroom cleanser and it cleans up beautifully. When I have problem stains, I use LA Totally Awesome Cleaner, which I purchase from Dollar General for #1 a spray bottle, and that stuff will clean just about anything, including the nasty stains from spider poop.

Good luck,

Gary
08-25-2016 11:26 AM
bricksbd8
Re: Painting deck - Primer question

Will Durabak seal mt Trawler deck for good. Dirty moisture coming out of cracks in paint. Water must be getting in there and coming out on hot days. Archie BRICKER
10-31-2007 09:04 PM
the1much were the "results" after a year, or after he got done painting? lmao
and may the "bullseye" seagull always fly over his boat heh
10-31-2007 08:43 PM
Finallybuyingaboat I saw on another forum where a guy used Benjamin Moore M22 to paint his boat and claimed the results were pretty good, even rolling & Tipping. So, I contacted Benjamin Moore to ask what kind of primer they would recommend for a sailboat and they said they would advise me to paint without a primer! They claim this paint will adhere extremely well to old sanded paint or to sanded fiberglass, so a primer is not required. They did mention using one of their specific cleaners prior to painting. No surprise about painting right on top of the old paint, but even on the areas where I have sanded it all away? That is a bit surprising.
10-31-2007 06:15 PM
the1much jim is right, especially if your going to use the paint, then, sift,or sprinkle way, or if you just paint over the non-skid
10-31-2007 05:52 PM
JimsCAL One problem I've heard of with the anti-skid additive is that if its color is very different from the paint, it will start to show through fairly soon. Use a color close to the paint color if you can.
10-31-2007 04:55 PM
the1much with awl-grip i put on 1 coat of color, then add the non-skid to the next 2 coats, by mixing in with paint then letting it sit ferawhile then stir and paint.
andwhat everyone has said about health is right, awl-grip says you need a pos. press. helmet. i only use a resperator, but then again im not the sharpest tool in the box. and i ALWAYS tell others to use the helmet.
10-31-2007 11:30 AM
US27inKS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bardo View Post
Don Casey recommends adding the particulate matter to the primer, so that you will encapsulate the beads with the 2 coats of paint. Everyone concur?
It depends on the addative you use. If you're using sand, I would say follow Casey's advice. If using the intergrip, follow interlux's instructions which is to mix it in the paint, let it set for 20 minutes or so, stir and paint. I wouldn't want a coat of paint over the finish I got. It turned out perfect.

I also agree with the need for proper respirators when spraying 2 part paints. I didn't have pressurized breathing air available when I sprayed my deck, but I did use a high quality respirator for automotive painting with good cartridges. I shot the paint (took about 30 minutes per coat) then left the building. I also used an hvlp gun which put much less paint in the air than a standard sprayer. Those 2 part paints are awesome, but they will kill you.

John
10-31-2007 11:16 AM
Bardo Don Casey recommends adding the particulate matter to the primer, so that you will encapsulate the beads with the 2 coats of paint. Everyone concur?
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