|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-05-2011 07:19 PM|
I have big white marks on my red hull (Interlux Brightside) from the shrink wrap. I took the wrap off before the warm sun so there would not be a problem but I think problem occured when shrink wrap was put on - too much heat used. I tried 800 grit sanding and compound but still have white marks.
|11-16-2007 11:38 AM|
Using a cheap tarp (blue one) successfully
I have a friend with a Bayfield 40 who has had great success with old, el cheapo tarps. He gets most of them from the dumpster after people have torn out grommets in them. His secret is to use the grommets only to hold the tarp in place while he ties the tarp down with many light ropes over the top of the tarp from one side of the cradle to the other. He uses whatever old hunks of line he has (often from the dumpster) and uses many lines going in different directions. Seems to work really well and close to free.
|11-16-2007 11:13 AM|
Originally Posted by TradewindSailing View Post
Here's the manufacturer's product page: Reef Industries, Inc. - Griff Clip IV.
|11-07-2007 12:57 PM|
|christyleigh||I don't have vertical frame attached to my pulpit on the side - only the backbone doing a curved 90 degree turn at the forestay and attached to the pulpit seat frame with a T as you show. Since my only concern is to keep the wrap away from the teak I'll probably just add a little horizontal stand off along the rail where you connect that vertical frame member just to ease the transition from my last vertical.|
|11-07-2007 10:43 AM|
Good idea Stan! I considered that as well, but accepted the maximum offset allowed by the standard clamp dimension. It does clear the top rail in most areas, although not enough to allow for teak refinishing with the cover in place, especially the toerail.
How did you solve the bow pulpit standoff issue?
|11-07-2007 10:28 AM|
Originally Posted by TrueBlue View Post
|11-07-2007 08:37 AM|
I fully agree with Stan that there's too much false information and hysteria regarding shrinkwrapping. It is the best way to keep moisture off your boat . . . IF proper ventilation and standoffs are used.
In addition to a reusable zippered access panel (3 years with the same panel now), I have had at least 6 of those clamshell vents installed in my shrinkwrap jobs - very effective. To assist in controlling excess moisture, I fill three shoebox size containers with a 50/50 mix of calcium chloride and cat litter and distribute them in the cabins below. Never had a mildew problem with this boat.
My frames are also held outside of the rails, by standoffs clamped to the stanchions - as shown in this pic:
|11-07-2007 08:24 AM|
Originally Posted by labatt View Post
|11-07-2007 02:24 AM|
A warning for NE...
It's not really related to how you cover your boat. However, make sure the drains do not freeze and block water during winter. There are so many examples of boats flooding in winter with rain water. Cockpit floods, then the cabin... And causes extreme damages to interior... Just a warning...
|11-06-2007 08:46 PM|
|labatt||The frame we built will keep the wrap at a fairly steep slope, hopefully making the snow slide off fairly quickly. We'll put the solar vents on the angles, so they should remain uncovered most of the time. I'd be interested to hear anyone else's experience with them too. Also, we plan on getting a "door" for the shrink wrap too.|
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