|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-20-2007 08:07 PM|
I checked it today, and it's actually a two inch interior diameter standpipe. It's the cap that looks larger. That is the size of the hole in the bottom of the boat. The standpipe cap is above the waterline. It strongly resembles the size of pipe that once took fuel oil in houses in Canada and the U.S. Northeast.
The Venturi unit is here: http://mermaidmarineair.com/marine-d...ndensator.html
It's pretty straightforward, but is it worth 200 bucks? Maybe, or maybe I can whip one up out of barbeque parts and hose cheaper.
|11-20-2007 07:56 PM|
|dsbentley||When you say 4" stand pipe, is that the size of the though hull? What is the Venturi unit you are reffering to? Is this somthing you add to the A/C unit to get rid of the condensation? I just thought that the condensation just dripped down into the bilge.|
|11-18-2007 08:59 PM|
Originally Posted by dsbentley View Post
I have a four-inch standpipe with four ball-valved Ts: one for the engine, one for the Lavac head, one for the March pump and a spare, which I'll probably use for a salt-water tap in the galley.
|11-18-2007 07:14 PM|
Air versus air
Back when I worked for a yacht manufacturer we installed Webasto units in a boat that normally had a Marine Air type system. We were on our way to the Miami Boat Show. The Webasto unit failed and had to be replaced 3 or 4 times during the show after the crowds went home. The yacht manufacturer never considered a Webasto unit again after that. Customer service, however, was excellent. But the failure rate was comic.
|11-18-2007 07:09 PM|
|dsbentley||I have a 2" though hull for my main engine raw water intake and was told I can T off of this after the strainer to get water for my March pump. I am told there is plenty of water in that line which wont effect the cooling of the engine and its one less through hull I have to worry about. Any thoughts on this?|
|11-13-2007 02:53 PM|
|Valiente||I have a spare March pump as well for just this reason.|
|11-13-2007 10:38 AM|
|avazquez||Thats a much better arrangement but I would suggest to have a spare water pump in line with a valve. If you loose the main pump you would loose ALL the units. I have two individual units with two pumps.|
|11-12-2007 06:59 PM|
|dsbentley||I spoke to the Marina Air people today and they said I would need 60,000 BTU to cool the boat which is more than I thought. I was told I could use my copper water circut for the chiller line, but I would need to insulate the line. I am now looking to install 3 or 4 separate independant units with one seawater pump then manifold off to the units. I guess I just need to figure out the best place to put the units.|
|11-11-2007 03:09 AM|
|Valiente||That's a lot of boat to cool. I have the Marine Air 12,000 BTU unit on a steel 40 footer drawing seawater via a March pump (AC). This does the trick for me, and provides heat on cool evenings...which is the element of the Marine Air unit I like...it pumps both hot and cold air at the turn of a dial.|
|11-10-2007 11:36 PM|
|deniseO30||David, Typically the chilled water circulates through a cooling coil in a blower unit. If they are just rads the chilled water will make them sweat gallons of condensation! So you would need chilled water blower units in addition to the chiller. The larger the system using chilled water the more efficent it would be. but if it has one compressor/condensor you wouldn't have any ac if broke down. Surely Marine Air makes the blower coil units too?|
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